Husain Nazar
It was mid-fall, 2009. A passion had been rose to observe beauties in colorful nature. We should go somewhere, specially an untouched isolated place to fulfill our interest. I think this is a common sense among nature lovers.
On Thursday, 12th of November in 2009, along with Mohammad Haj-Abolfath, Mohammad Ahmadi and Ehsan Darabi, we left Tehran Early morning aiming to explore the central part of Iran plateau between Isfahan and Markazi provinces. That was the start point for a considerable project by Iran Mountain Zone to explore the highest summits of every 30 provinces in the country. The outcomes of these explorations will be prepared in the form of maps usable for various outdoor activities. The plan started with "Viligia", probably the highest peak or the second highest in Markazi province.
With a well-equipped truck, we moved southward from Tehran. It was our pleasure to get rid of our fumy town even for a couple of days.
In a highway from Tehran to Qom and then from Qom toward Isfahan, which is called Persian Gulf highway, Mohammad drove. As we get closer to Isfahan, sceneries around changed little by little from smooth desert planes to rough mountains wrapped in morning autumn clouds. They are undoubtedly the most beautiful mountains in arid lands of Iran plateau.
Ten kilometers before Kashan, there is a road leading toward Mashhad-e-Ardehal and Naraq cities. We looked at the maps. It was the right passage that took us to the spot.
Entering the new road, landscapes changed abruptly. Farm lands expanded at the foot of virgin peaks. Farmers were putting their last efforts to prepare their fields for next summer, hoping for sufficient amount of rain and snow during coming months.
Every so often we crossed a village, where we stopped by for a short talk with smiley and hospitable inhabitants.
Twenty five kilometers after driving in new road, we arrived at Mashhad-e-Ardehal, where Iranian contemporary poet & painter, Sohrab Sepehri is buried. Wrist watch altimeter showed 1800 meter above sea level and sun shines were drying the last affects of last night’s rain.
Looking to the south, a partially snow covered peak with rocky broad shoulders was observable. It was called "Mashhad-e-Ardehal". It was very Deceptive, but "Viligia", the highest peak in Markazi province was our target this time, which was not that much far. Just turning to the right, Viligia could be seen with a cloud getting stranded in its east bosom.
After taking a few photos, we proceeded on. Six kilometers farther, a narrow road getting off on the right side, going on for almost 3 km between farm lands and hiding in dense of colorful trees at the foot of Viligia.
Afterwards, we reached "Khaveh", a medium size village where 400 households were settled in during cold seasons. This numbers increases to almost 600 in summer. Inhabitants of Khaveh grow cereals, nuts and rose. Rose as their principle products like several places around Kashan, is mostly used to make rosewater, which can be purchased in the village.
From the point we entered the village, two different routes were available. The west route got out of the village very soon and the east one penetrated deep into the village.
"Which one of these two routes takes us to East side of the mountain?" we were all involved with this question. The east side of the mountain was picked for its beauty before the trip. Based on the information we had attained using Google Earth, this route must starts with a narrow valley full of trees and a river inside. So we headed westward to catch the most informative view of the region. We entered a sandy road between vast farms. That road seemed to go directly toward west side of the mountain, where no evidences of our desired route existed.
Fortunately, we visited two young farmers and asked them a few questions to clarify the situation more. Talking with them assured us to go back and explore the other route. The second route began with narrow alleys in "Khaveh" village. Meanwhile, we occasionally stopped to learn more about our destination and also village history.
Mohammad drove to the eastern end of the village, where "V-Dar", our desired valley to the east side of Mt. Viligia starts.
Through a sandy road crossing from one side to the other side of "V-Dar" alongside of colorful barberry bushes, our exploration started to find the closest ridge to Viligia summit. Less than a kilometer, we caught the sight of a historical dam, which had been built up of special concrete like material called "Sarouj" and belonged to "Seljuk" dynasty during 5th and 6th century of solar calendar. A few 10 meters farther in the right hand side of the road, there was a water tank with a plastic pipe drained its overflow. We filled the bottles and went on northward.
"V-Dar" seems to include principle water sources for "Khaveh" village. Every few hundred meters, small dams were built alongside of the road. From the other point of view, it was very joyful to see ponds full of clear water behind those dams that surrounded by canebrake in a mountainous region less than 100 km from desert lands.
An hour or two prior to sunset, we reached end of the road, where a wide valley called "Barzegar" goes to the north and a narrower one named "Darb-e-Lahoun" with willow trees on its side tilts toward NW. To this point, we had driven almost 5 km from "Khaveh".
There, at the corner of mentioned two valleys we had no perspective of the summit, but based on the map, it looked that we are very close to the East Ridge. Also there was a trekking route going through "Darb-e-Lahoun", which helped us choosing the latter valley.
Weather has worsened gradually since noon and started to rain a little after we set to trek. A few ten minutes further, another valley at the right hand side separated toward the north. It was called "Sang-e-Sabz", which means "Green Stone", but trekking route continued into the left valley with the name "Esmaeel-Abad".
After a short verification, we assured of the route. It was about sunset and rain was going on. We should find somewhere to pitch our camp preferably close to water, but in a wider valley to keep safe from any flash flood. So we turned back to "V-Dar". Few minutes later, raining slowed down and ceased as we entered V-Dar.
We decided to pass that night in the vicinity of one of the artificial ponds, where we could hear water dripping whole night beneath the dustless sky full of star.
Next morning, November 13th, we walked back toward "Esmaeel-Abbad", which was in the shortest distance to eastern ridge. The weather was pretty sunny but with a cold wind blowing from west. We were tracing the stream line surrounded by barberry shrubs, when we encountered with the third two-way, characterized with a manikin shaped rock almost 15 meters up the corner. Therefore, we spread the map sheet for a short reconnaissance again.
To the right, we would enter a narrow valley, which turns NW ward very soon. It is called "Dineva". But to the left, which was still Esmaeel-Abbad, the valley got wider gradually, we were still alongside of the river and much important than all, we could see the summit with its rocky shoulder. Therefore, we tracked the water line.
We went on between tall thorny plants till we reached the end of stream. It was originated from two spring covered by big bushes. Again a conversation began to choose the best way toward the summit. We were at the opening of a horseshoe-shaped ridge, which was divided into two equal parts with a direct ridge across the main summit. That divider line went gently to the summit, so we’d better choose it.
A few ten minutes later, wind got faster. We stopped to put on our anoraks and also drank a cup of hot tea. Then, we set off again.
Step by step we were getting closer to the highest peak in Markazi province. To pass the last third part of the route, we should carefully scrambled in a colouir full of loose stones, then turning left eastward, where a rocky edge took us to the summit with 3370 meter height. Eventually, on November 13, at noon Ehsan and I together with two Mohammad were at the top of Viligia overwhelming by an indescribable passion of success.
Standing on top of Viligia, a small village called "Kerogan" is seen in the west foot of the mountain. It belongs to "Jasb" Region. "Naraq" city is in SW side and toward the north "Palang-Abi" and "Barfkhaneh", two 3000ers around Qom are in sight.
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