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Fajr Climbing Cup

Annual Fajr Climbing Competition held on EntrePrise wall of Tavanir court in Neishaboor on February 19 – 21, where 109 competitors in difficulty and 36 climbers in speed class, participated in the contest.
A competitor on the EntrePrise wall of the court The Competition of difficulty held in three round on the routes 5.12a, 5.12cd and 5.13a. Vahid Asgari from Hamadan, Meisam Taghipoor from Qazvin and Morteza Eftekhar from Karaj ranked first to three and Artimes FarshadYeganeh and Amir Pirveisi stood afterward.
In the Speed competition, which held in two rounds on Thursday and Friday, Hussein Saif from Isfahan ranked the first and Seiahpoosh from Lorestan and Afzali from Kerman stood next.

IMZ News Department
February 2003


Amir Pirveisi Won the Shaghayegh Climbing Cup

Amir Pirveisi 4th annual Shaghyegh Climbing Competition held in the Esteqlal court of Karaj city on 9th and 10th January.35 climbers from seven provinces participated in the competition, which was hosted by Shaghayegh Mountaineering group.
29 climbers entered to second round that was hold on friday morning when eight of them was selected for final round. Amir Pirveisi who was the only climber to captured the (5.13 a), won the competition. Hosein Yazdandoust and Mojtaba Saghafi stood afterward.

Photos and complete report

IMZ News Reporter
January 10, 2003


Iranian Youth Climbers Earned two medals from Asian Youth Rock Climbing Championship

Mohammad Jafari earned gold medal of Asian Youth category where Mansour Aqaie got silver medal of juniors, both in difficulty class.
It was during fourth Asian Youth Rock Climbing Championship that held in Malaysia with participation of 110 climbers from 10 states in December.
Morteza Eftekhar, the other Iranian climber, ranked fifth in difficulty class of youth category.
Mansour Aqaie in junior category and Hamidreza Toozandejani in youth category, both stood fourth in speed class, too.

IMF Public Relation
December 2002


Final Result of Rock Climbing competition of IRAN Mountaineering Clubs

Third annual Rock Climbing competition of IRAN Mountaineering clubs held in the memory of Alireza Dallalian on the artificial rock wall of Shohadaye Ghods sport complex of Hamadan on 12 and 13 December 2002.
130 climbers from 30 clubs throughout the country participate in the competition, which held in three round. Amir Pirveisi from Khodayari club of Hamadan won the competition. Vahid Asgari from Yaran club of Hamadan and MohammadReza Ramezanpour from Sabznavardan club of Khorasan stood afterward.
It’s worth mentioning that all members of IRAN Youth Climbing team, which is going to leave IRAN for Asian Youth Climbing Championship in Kuala Lumpur, participated in the competition.

IMF Public Relation
December 2002


Mountains Environmental Sustainability Conference

Iranian Conference on Mountains Environmental Sustainability was held in Tehran by “I.R.Iran Coordinating Committee for International Year of Mountains” on 8 and 9 December 2002. This conference were implemented in meeting hall of Iran National Olympic Committee, in which more than 350 participants from academic centers, concerning governmental organizations, Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs), mountaineering groups and other interested persons were gathered.
The conference topics were:
- Natural environment of mountains
- Cultural and socio-economic issues and eco-tourism
- Planning and sustainable management in mountains
More than 10 selected paper were presented, in which, most important issues of mountainous ecosystems were discussed.
In the opening session, Dr. H.Bahraini, Head of Faculty of Environment in University of Tehran, and Head of Iran coordinating committee, was the first speaker who emphasized on paying attention to mountain environments in Iran. Behind him, Mr. Anooshiravan Najafee, Vice President of Natural Environment in Department of Environment (DOE), Dr. Y.A.Hakimi, Representative of FAO in Iran, Mrs. V. Taleghani, Member of Parliament and advisor of parliament in environmental issues, Mr. Dennis Fenton, Representative of GEF and Mr. Kamyab, Representative of UNDP in Iran, were the other speakers. By accomplished pursues, president Khatami sent a message to conference, but due to delays in transmission, reading this message in opening ceremony, wasn’t achieved.
In the next sessions of first day, some of academic professors presented their papers in the field of important subjects of mountains, through which, some of titles were "Water and Mountains" by Dr. M. Mahdavi, "Mountain Challenges" by Dr. A.Yavari and "Mountainous Ecosystems" by Dr.B.Riazi.
The second day was continued by presentation of two reports: “From Rio to Johannesburg” and “Bishkek Global Mountain Summit“. Four working groups with participation of scientists, experts and other people were established on the basis of following issues: Human resources and tourism in mountains, Natural resources in mountains, Management in mountains and Threats to mountains. After meeting and discussion, each working group, presented it’s conclusions and strategies for mountain conservation and sustainable management.
By the closing of conference, the primary version of final statement was declared by Dr. H.Bahraini. It will be revised and send to participants.
This conference was ended by acknowledgement to environmental conservation officers and all the people who attempt for mountains.

Public Relation Section of Mountain Environment Conservation Society
December 2002


Two victims in Parau cave

The Eroica, Third pitch of Parau

On Friday 4th October 2002, a team, consisting of 7 members from “Damavand Ski & Mountaineering Club” left Tehran to Kermanshah and entered to “Parau” cave.This cave is located in southern plateau of Parau near Kermanshah and have 26 shafts with total depth of almost 752 meters. This is one of the most difficult caves in Iran which has the grade of 5.12d
After several days exploration in the cave, the spelunkers were divided into two groups. The first group had four members and 3 members remained in the second one, they were Ali Rahimi, Victoria KianiRad and Amir Ahmadi. Several days later, the first group after leaving the cave, were anxious due to absence of their friends in second group. They announced the matter to their organization. A rescue team from Tehran traveled to district and entered in the cave with spelunkers from Kermanshah mountaineering council. After a number of days attempt, this team got sight of Ali’s powerless body at the far depth of cave. Preparations began immediately to revival of A.Rahimi. After he gained relatively his health, the saviours were informed with harrowing event of Victoria’s deathfull fall in shaft No.18 , which was continued by Amir’s dieing down due to effect of shock encountered him by death of Victoria. Parau cave map The saviours began their efforts immediately to take A.Rahimi into outside and carried him to hospital. Searching was continued to find the body of two victims. Saviour team after discovering the dead spelunkers, decided to carry the bodies out of the cave, but after some efforts and investigation on the path, they concluded that body carriage is impossible because of narrow and complicated passes. Finally, the bodies were buried beneath the Parau cave and Ali Rahimi was rescued by transfer to outside.
It should be mentioned that Parau cave, had primarily been visited by spelunkers from Poland and Britain on 1972.

A few pictures from Parau cave

IMZ News Department
October 2002


The first Competition of fast climb to Mount Damavand

The first Competition of fast climb to Mount Damavand (dubbed Damavand Marathon) was held on 4th and 5th August 2002 in south route.
311 participants left Raineh(2300 m) toward GosfandSara(2900 m) in southern foothill of Mount Damavand on Sunday August 4 at 5:00 pm after inauguration ceremony. The first participant reached the GosfandSara at 5:53pm! The second and third participants reached the GosfandSara 3 and 4 minutes later respectively. There were 308 participants at the end of the first day of the competition that reached the Gosfandsara.
At 6:00 am Monday August 5, when the second part of the Marathon started, 280 of 308 climbers left GoosfandSara to their appointed destination, Bargah Sevom shelter (4150 m). It took only 1 hour and 4 minutes (!) for the first participant to reach the Bargah Sevom shelter where no one of the forerunners stopped to rest.
At 9:04:07 the team of referees located at the peak confirmed that the first participant had arrived. He had left an amazing record of 3 hours, 4 minutes and 7 seconds. The second one arrived there with 2 minutes delay. Third one was 4 minutes behind and fourth and fifth ones reached afterwards with a short delay.
The referees terminated the competition after the 30th participant grabbed the peak. Now all the participants headed down to GosfandSara where they had started the competition in second day.
At 5:00 pm a closing ceremony was accomplished at GoosfandSara in which Mr. Sadegh Aghajany head of I.R.Iran Mountaineering Federation, appreciated all the participant's efforts. The eldest and youngest climbers were rewarded and Prizes were distributed between the first to ten competitors. There was also an especial approbation for the only disabled participant who had climbed up to Bargah Sevom shelter.
Following is the final outcome of the competition:

Rank    Participant    Province    Total Time

1. Majid Zolfaghari   Tehran (4:05:17), Winner of First Prize ($2000)
2. Mansour Shahveisy   Kermanshah (4:15:26), Winner of Second Prize ($1500)
3. Hassan Javid   Hamedan (4:16:30), Winner of Third Prize ($1000)
4. Jahanbakhsh SavehShemshaki   Tehran (4:16:43)
5. Asgari Takallou   Hamedan (4:16:52)
6. Mohammad-Sadegh Tajally   Kohkilouye & Boyer Ahmad (4:19:53)
7. Ebrahim Sheikhy   Tehran
8. Fazlollah BalalyPour   Isfahan
9. Mehdi AmirAbadi   Khorasan
10. Peyman Azghany   Ardebil

Note: The Total Time left by each mountaineer has been pertained by adding up his timing of the first and second part of the competition.

IMZ News Reporter
August 5, 2002


Iranian Lhotse Expedition

Twelve members and three high-altitude Sherpas of Iranian Lhotse expedition successfully climbed the 8516-meter high Mt. Lhotse from the west face in May 2002. The first team including 6 climbers and 2 Sherpas left camp 4 at 8000m on 16th May at 1:30 a.m. and after ten and a half hours stood on the Lhotse peak. The second team also attacked the summit from the camp 4 on 17th May and reached the summit in the afternoon. Expedition comprised:

Team Members
1-Sadegh Aghajani (Expedition Leader)
2-Eghbal Aflaki(47) summit, May 17
3-Davoud Khadem(45) summit, May 17
4-Jalal Cheshmeh-ghassabani(42) summit, May 16
5-Mohammad Hassan Najjarian (37) summit, May 16
6-Reza Zarei(33) summit, May 17
7-Mohammad Oraz (32) summit, May 17
8-Hamid Naseri(31) summit, May 17
9-Akbar Mehdizadeh(27) summit, May 16
10-Reza Bahadorani(23) summit, May 16
11-Reza Soleymani(23) summit , May 17
12-Amin Azimi(22) summit, May 16
13-Moghbel Honarpajoh(19) summit, May 16
14-Dr. Mahmoud Goudarzi (medical doctor)

Sherpas
Lakpa sherpa(41) summit, May 17
Mingma sherpa(23) summit, May 16
Chang Dawa sherpa(19) summit, May 16

The Iranian Lhotse Expedition was permitted to climb the Lhotse peak (8516 m) from the west face during the spring season of 2002. It was the sixth 8-thousander, which Iranian expedition has climbed independently since 1997.

IMF Public Relation
May 2002

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