Tehran’s G2 expedition left Iran toward Pakistan

Holding eight selection and preparatory camps since the beginning of 2009, Tehran province’s expedition composed of eleven men eventually left Tehran today morning at 11:20 toward Islam Abad for an attempt on G2.
According to Mountaineering and Sport climbing council of Tehran province, the 11-member expedition left Tehran whereas at the end of 7^th selection camp, only five alpinists plus team leaders and physician were assumed to gather in, but three more mountaineers were added after further negotiation with related authorities.
The expedition members are: Kaveh Kashefi (Leader), Alireza Behpour (physician), Younes Rezakhani (assistant), Omid Amohammadi, Seyed Mohammad Seyed Aghaei, Mohammad Nasiri, Mojtaba Rahman Nezhad, Hamid Sanjari, Masoud Taheri, Mohammad Naderian and Ali Nasiri.
It is the third time that an Iranian expedition sets out to G2.

IMZ News Department
June 16, 2009

Abbaas Mohammadi joined Arash alpinists toward a new route on Broad Peak

Arash Mountaineers Club’s expedition will leave Tehran toward Islam Abad tomorrow in the morning, with the aim of opening a new route on south west side of Mt. Broad peak.
Kiyoumars Babazadeh, the expedition leader said to IMZ news Department: "Abbaas Mohammadi, a famous club"s member and the head of Iran"s Alpine Club joined us to facilitate expedition’s affairs while Esmaeel Rezaei gave up some days ago."
He also said that Ramin Shojaei and Sa’eed Toosi will join the whole team in Islam Abad.

IMZ News Department
June 15, 2009

Mehdi Amidi describes his Manaslu summit in a meeting by Alpine Club of Iran

The 78^th monthly meeting of Iran’s Alpine Club will be held on Wednesday, 17^th of June at "Shahr yaran-e-Javan" center in Tehran’s downtown.
The meeting will start at 5 p.m. with some news on mountaineering topics by Abbaas Sabetian. Afterwards Javad Nezamdoust is supposed to give a presentation about caving and cave protection activities that have already done by Alpine Club.
As the end program, Mehdi Amidi will describe his Manaslu summit in past May. He is the second Iranian who has topped Manaslu considering Mohammad Jafar Asadi’s achievement in 1976.

IMZ News Department
June 8, 2009

Environmentalists’ protest against road construction agreement in Damavand’s south side

The Mountain Environment Protection Society (MEPS), declared its deep concern about road construction project in south side of Mt. Damavand.
Abdollah Ashtari, the society chief wrote to Environmental Protection Organization head: "According to decision took by Environment council of Government; Damavand’s surrounding, as a national park and symbol, should be protected against devastation. Therefore, the organization must prevent road construction."
"Opening of asphalt roads in mountains for easier motorized traffic will result in much more devastation and pollution in sensitive environments of mountains and natural parks beside its impact on facilitation of human access to higher altitudes." Ashtari wrote to Mrs. Javadi.


Photo: Photo Archive of Iran MountainZone.

IMZ News Department
June 4, 2009

Arash Mountaineers Club of Tehran to open a new route on Broad Peak

After nine months of preparation since last October, eventually eleven members of Arash Mountaineers Club of Tehran were gathered in an expedition to open a new route on Broad Peak in Karakorum.
Kiyoumars Babazadeh, the expedition leader said to IMZ News Department: "We are going to open a new route on the south west side of BP in a period of two months and a half from mid June."
As he said, the starting section of the route between 4900m to 6500m is considered as a mixture of rock, ice and snow climbing. This section finally ends up in camp 3 of the normal route in 7000m.
"We expect the most challenging part of the route from 7000m up to the summit, which looks to be a mix climbing." Kiyoumars Added.
The expedition members are: Ramin Shojaei, Hossain Khosh-Cheshm, Sa’eed Toosi, Omid Safi, Esmaeel Rezaei, Afshin Sa ’di, Reza Kazemi, Idin Bozorgi, Majid Toosi, and Ali Mohammadi.
It’s worth saying, Ramin and Sa’eed will join the team from Canada and USA respectively.


Photo: Photo Archive of www.asifaxis.wordpress.com

IMZ News Department
June 3, 2009

Three mountaineers died in Mt. Damavand

Three mountaineers died on Damavand on Tuesday May 26^th, according to news received from the region.
Sajadeh Keshmiri, Farkhonde Memari and Hamid Torabi, who were going to ascend Damavand as members of a team of eleven mountaineers from "Hormozagan" province in south of Iran, died in the early hours of Tuesday May 26^th, 2009.
The summit push had begun on Monday, 25^th of May from "Bargah-e-Sevom" hut on the southern side of the mountain.
The search operation is on to locate the bodies of dead mountaineers.

IMZ News Department
May 30, 2009

Tehran’s Expedition to G2: 7 men were picked at the end of 7^th camp

Holding seven test camps since the beginning of 2009, Tehran Province’s Council of Sport Climbing and Mountaineering eventually announced Mt G2 expedition members.
According to council’s official website, the sixth and seventh stages were done in Middle Alborz, where twelve strong men tested their last chances to join the final team. In those two camps, participants mostly were checked in technical mountaineering, fixing rope and walking on glacier. Also during the latter camp, which was carried out on "Hasandar " snowfield near Lavasan Region in north of Tehran, Reza Zareei and Younes Reza-Khani gave some useful instructions on hauling systems and crevasse rescue.
Finally, the following mountaineers were chosen as Tehran"s men expedition to attempt on Mt. Gasherbrum 2 in the coming July.

1. Mojtaba Rahman Nezhad
2. Hamid Sanjari
3. Masoud Taheri
4. Mohammad Naderian
5. Ali Nasiri

1. Babak Doctor Zadeh
2. Seyed Mohammad Seyed Aghaei

IMZ News Department
May 14, 2009

"It was like a fata morgana", David describes

Five days since Mehdi Etemadfar’s missing in Mt. Dhaulagiri, we should believe on his death.
According to the report by Czech David FojtiK, Mehdi along with him, Turkish Tunc Findic, Czech Pavla Pilchova and Dawa Sherpa left Camp 2 toward Camp 3 in the morning of April 30^th. It was the first time that mountaineers were touching Camp 3 in this season.
A few minutes behind David, Mehdi arrived at C3, while they decided to share a tent in that high wind. In the evening there were two separate teams in C3; Korean team composed of 8 mountaineers and sherpas and team of David, Tunc, Mehdi and Dawa. Pavla had turned back just shortly below C3.
"At around 23:00, the summit push started; Koreans first and Mehdi and I were half an hour behind them. Koreans were trying to put fixed rope everywhere, therefore we decided to return to camp and start later on 2:00 A.M. instead of staying in cold weather", David wrote.

They waited till 2:00 A.M., when they realized that Tunc and Dawa are preparing to climb as well. Despite a long time waiting for Koreans to go farther, they quickly caught up with Koreans and continued behind them up to 7900m, where Koreans ran out of the rope. They were going to turn back, but David and Tunc decided to try for the summit anyway. It was around 11:00 - 12:00 A.M. .
David continued: "Taking turns; we started to break the trail to where we thought the summit was and realized that others were slowly following us. Me and Tunc went first, Mehdi with Dawa were 150m behind us, then Korean group. After couple of hours, we found the couloir leading to the summit and at around 14:30-15:00, I started to climb it with Tunc being maybe 50m behind and Mehdi maybe another 100m behind. I could not see Mehdi at that point because the weather dramatically worsened, There was whiteout conditions and signs of an approaching storm."
Looking for the summit at the end of the couloirs, Tunc and David noticed that the whole summit ridge was charged by electricity. So they ran away from the summit and immediately returned back to the couloir.
"Anyway, with Tunc already down the couloir I started to descend as well. About 20 meters down the couloir I put on my skis and started to ski down. At that point, while skiing down, I saw a figure at the bottom of the couloir, maybe 50 to 70m below me. Suddenly this figure tripled 3 times backwards, gaining big speed, shouting out something and disappearing into the whiteout. It could have lasted 1 to 3 seconds, not more. At that moment I thought I was dreaming or having a fata morgana. All this was very intensive and too much for my brain to comprehend", David Added.
Skiing down, David looked for marks of a possible fall, but found nothing. He also shouted out, but there was no response.
After David and Tunc, there were also Korean team on the summit in the late hours of May 1^st, and he guess they did not see any traces of Mehdi.
"I am convinced that Mehdi died due to a fall between 15:30 and 16:00 on May 1^st, 2009", David ended up.

IMZ News Department
May 7, 2009

Mehdi Etemadfar Disappeared around 8100m on Mt. Dhaulagiri

The Famous Iranian Mountaineer, Mehdi Etemadfar who had left Tehran toward Katmandu to accomplish his second attempt on Mt. Dhaulagiri, disappeared around 8100m on Friday, May 1^st.
On a call to IMZ News Department from the base camp, Tunc Findik said: "During the Summit push, Mehdi was so tired around 8000m, but still was heading up to the top. David Fojtik, the Czech mountaineer, and I were climbing up ahead of him toward the summit, while it was almost whiteout."
"Skiing down from the summit, David saw Mehdi for the last time like a ghost in whiteout. According to his words, Mehdi was stepping back and forth in a bad mood and suddenly fell on an icy slope at 8100m and disappeared", Tunc added.
The Turkish Mountaineer, Tunc Findik along with David Fojtik succeeded to step on the top of Dhaula on Friday, May 1^st. David was evacuated to Katmandu to cure severe frostbite in his toes. The other members of the expedition will come back to Kathmandu in the coming days, according to Tunc’s report.

IMZ News Department
May 4, 2009

Iranian made Crampons received CE certificate

Working hard during the recent few years in producing mountaineering technical gears, the Iranian "Haft Gohar" company succeeded to receive "CE" certification for its crampons. "Haft Gohar" crampons are available in eight models under the names of "Yakh Char" , "Yakh Shar" and "Yakh Kar" for different activities.
Also, they have already succeeded to receive "ISO-9001" certificate.
It worth saying that "Haft Gohar" produces Ice axes, trekking poles, crampons and head lamps since seven years ago.

IMZ News Department
May 2, 2009

Sixth selection camp is on to choose the most skillful mountaineers for G2 expedition

Holding five camps since January, 2009, Tehran province council of mountaineering and sport climbing started the sixth one in vicinity of "Dizin" region on Mt. "Koloun Bastak" and "Sarack-Chal" yesterday in the morning. In this stage, twelve men have taken part to show their skills of alpinism and increase their chances of membership in the expedition to G2, in the coming summer.
According to council’s official website, the fifth camp was carried out on mount "Kholeno" in 8^th and 9^th of April, where fourteen mountaineers showed off their skills in rescue operations on snowy slopes and mix climbing on rocky flank in southern shoulder of "Kholeno " under the supervision of Hussain Nazar and Younes Reza-Khani.
To see the fifth camp’s photos,Tehran province Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council click here.

IMZ News Department
May 1, 2009

Third "Simorgh" bouldering championship

The Third "Simorgh" bouldering championship will be held on Friday, May 20^th in Qazvin, Iran.
Holding annually from two years ago by Simorgh mountaineering group of Qazvin, "Simorgh" is only dedicated to bouldering comps.

IMZ News Department
April 30, 2009

Tehran Expedition to Mt. Spantik : Seven women were chosen

The fifth and final stage of selection process to gather the most skillful women in an expedition was carried out around mount "Kholeno" in middle Alborz.
According to official website of mountaineering and sport climbing council of Tehran province, eight women showed off their skills in mix climbing, rescue topics on glaciers, and camp setup in harsh weather on 23^rd and 24^th of April, when Hussain Nazar, Hadi Saberi and Abbaas Ranhjbari accompanied them as instructors. Meanwhile, Dr. Alireza Behpour medically checked mountaineers during their activities.
At the end of selection process, which was started on February, 2009 the following peoples were chosen to attempt on Spantik peak in Karakorum in the coming summer.

1. Leyla Ebrahimi
2. Parastoo Abrishami
3. Fereshteh Khademi Talab
4. Shiva Farsi
5. Masoumeh Maleki

1. Nasrin Saberi
2. Fatemeh Jan-Bozorgi

IMZ News Department
April 29, 2009

"Safe and Clean Mountains" seminar in Tehran

Tehran Disaster Mitigation Management Organization (TDMMO) will hold "Safe and Clean Mountains" seminar in the field of search and rescue development in mountainous region, on July 9, 2009.
According to official website of the organization, enthusiastic can submit their articles on the following topics.

• Mountain Hazards in "Tochal" Massif north of Tehran
• Same experiences in other countries
• Huts and shelters; opportunities and threats
• Mountain environment; Utilaztion and protection
• Multimedia’s role in training
• Mountain medicine
• Verification of legal frameworks, rules and regulation related to mountain
• Search and rescue training in Tehran

IMZ News Department
April 28, 2009

Fourth selection camp carried out for women

Expedition Committee of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran province, held the fourth stage of selection process, in order to gather the most skillful women mountaineers in an expedition.
According to council’s official website, ten women reviewed mixed climbing techniques under supervision of Reza Kaffash, Hadi Saberi and Abbaas Ranjbari in mount "Atash-Kouh" in middle Alborz, on 9^th and 10^th of April.
Finally, eight women passed the camp to show their physical abilities in the next stage, on April, 20^th.
To see related photos click here.



Photo:Tehran province Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council’s Photo Archive

IMZ News Department
April 16, 2009

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