The famous Iranian adventure Journalist, Abbas Jafari has gone missing after his kayak
capsized in Trishuli River in Nepal on Monday, September 7th.
According to IREN, Abbas was at rafting
in Trishuli River, when suddenly his boat upset in a region known as
Mugling-Narayanghat. Since then, his wife Farkhondeh Sadegh along with a search and
rescue team and local guides are seeking for Abbas. Up to now, they have just found out
a boat, which might be pertaining to Jafari.
Born in 1962 in Mashad city in North-East of Iran, Abbas is well-known for his several
travels all over the country as a tourism guide besides composing many adventurous
articles in Iranian Journals like "Hunt & Nature" and "Travel"
magazines. Also his articles about Iran’s wilderness have been published in a few
foreign magazines such as "National Geographic".
IMZ News Department
September 17, 2009
Two courses to train rock climbing instructors
Aiming to improve rock climbing training levels besides executing sport calendar
program, mountaineering committee of Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing
Federation is going to train male and female instructors for rock climbing.
According to their announcements, Farnoosh Raeisi and Maryam Bahrami-Nezhad are going
to be validated as Level-2 instructors in female category, while 23 men intend to be
qualified as fresh Level-3 instructors. These two courses will held on 200-meter high
"Pol-e-Khab" wall ,which is located midway from Karaj to Chaloos, NW side of
Tehran from 16th to 20th of October.
IMZ News Department
September 12, 2009
Iran’s Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting
The 80th public meeting of Iran’s alpine club will be held on
Wednesday, 16th of September from 5 P.M. to 8 P.M. in "Shahriaran-e-Javan" hall located in "Nejatollahi" Avenue of Tehran.
In the beginning of this gathering, Iran’s famous sport climber Artimes
Farshad-Yeganeh, who had participated as Alpine Club’s representative in
bouldering world cup of 2009 in France, will give a lecture on the competition.
Afterwards, Yousef Souri-Nia intends to give a speech in order to encourage domestic
cavers toward new caving activities. Yousef is well-known for his several surveys in
"Paru" cave of Kermanshah province.
Meeting is open for every one interests in alpinism.
IMZ News Department
September 10, 2009
Gasherbrum’s rubbish story came up again
Crevassed rubbish story of Gasherbrum II in the last season was seemed to be ended, but
18 days after Kaveh Kashefi’s response, a French climber upset the calm
atmosphere with his report on August 26th in Expweb.
French Arian Leman, who was about to gather information for his dissertation on waste
management on 8000m peaks by interviewing the people responsible for the waste
published more detailed report on crevassed garbage by Iranian expeditions.
"I had watched Iranian’s leader dump their bag of expedition rubbish into a
crevasse; even though I confronted him at the time, suggesting he pack it out, I was
told in no uncertain terms: ’It’s none of your business.’" Leman
reported.
He added: "I and the other member of Altitude Junkies team, Michael took the
garbage out of crevasse, carried it to GII’s base camp and pured it in front of
Iranian’s pile of tents."
Arian’s comments were mainly directed toward Tehran’s GII expedition and he
specifically blamed their leader, Kaveh Kashefi. So IMZ News decided to go after the
fact more seriously this time.
Getting in touch with Kaveh Kashefi, he insisted on his previous opinion again and said
their expeditions’ garbage was totally carried to BC in their bag packs and on
the shoulder of 4 hired local porters."
Beside Tehran’s team there were two other Iranian expeditions on GII in the same
time; an expedition of nine mountaineers from Sarab and a team of two Golestani
climbers.
We first talked to Golestani Hussain Asghari, who said: "when I was in the BC, I
heard some news about the situation, but I’m sure that it was not Tehrani’s
guilt. They brought all debris down."
The last person to converse was Farshad Khalili, leader of Sarab expedition, but he
postponed answering the question to another time.
IMZ News Department
September 7, 2009
Snow and ice climbing courses on Mt. Sabalan
Tehran’s Council of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing will hold a course to train
level -3 instructors in snow and ice climbing for both genders.
According to their official website, Tara Vala-Manesh, Fatemeh Mohammadi, Asma Mapar,
Fatemeh Jan-Bozorgi, Sepideh Javadian and Zahra-Sadat Sajed along with Hamid Tarabi,
Ali Azizi, Seyed Vase Seyed Mousavi and Reza Khoshdel, who have passed the entrance
exam before, are allowed to participate in this course.
Also, Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation intends to run a higher
level course in the same field to train level-2 instructors.
Based on federation’s report, Parastou Abrishami and Nahid Naseri beside Hamed
Keramat, Mohammad Hatam-Abadi, Reza Mazrouei, Majid Doroudgar, Farhoud Farhadi, Heydar
Abbaasi and Ali Amini have been validated in prior tests for this course, which is
designed to focus on improvement of their ice climbing techniques.
Above mentioned two courses will be carried out from September 21st to 25
th on various glaciers around Mt. Sabalan in Iran’s north east side.
IMZ News Department
September 2, 2009
Just one medal for Iranian climbers in 18th Asian Championship
The 18th Asian Sport Climbing Championship that was carrying out among 100 participants from 13 Asian countries in Chuncheon city of South Korea finished on Sunday, August 30.
In men’s lead comps, where Korean and Japanese climbers took first nine places to splurge their abilities, Iranian Mohsen Mohammad-Nezhad and Navid Soufi-Zadeh were ranked as 31st and 35th climbers among 35 competitors.
In women’s category, the champions were again Japanese and Korean leaders and 24-row table of final ranking included none of two Iranian female climbers’ name.
Bouldering competitions in both women’s and men’s category, finally resulted in championship of Korean and Japanese climbers , while Sobhan Jafari and Hamid-Reza Ghanimati from Iran gained no better grades than 15th and 30th among forty men and Elnaz Rekabi became 19th of 29 climbers in females category.
The order of top climbers changed in speed’s final ranking, where Kazakh and Chinese climbers won first prizes in both categories. In these comps, Mohsen Mohammad-Nezhad, Navid Soufi-Zadeh, Reza Pakdel Moghadam and Sobhan Jafari took 5th, 6th, 17th and 29th places among 29 men and Elnaz Rekabi was placed as 9th woman among 17.
According to Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation, Iran’s speed team qualified as the forth team of total ranking at the end of speed comps.
Based on that report, just one medal was acquired for Iran’s team in this championship, where Navid jumped in a manner to attain bronze medal in Dyno.
IMZ News Department
August 31, 2009
A training course about Advance Vertical Rescue
Iran’s Alpine Club intends to hold a training course late in October, 2009 to
train climbers and especially big wall climbers how to perform rescue operations on
vertical slopes.
Climbing accident’s management, first aids, rope techniques in rescue operations,
evaluate and placement of anchor systems, standard extrication and patient packaging
techniques, hauling systems are the main topics, which will be instructed by Majid
Sabet-Zadeh, an Iranian member of "Friends of Yosemite Search and Rescue".
According to Alpine Club’s report, climbers with more than 18 years old and
ability to climb at least 5.9 are allowed to participate in this course, which is going
to be carried out on Band-e-Yakhchal wall at the foot of Mt. Tochal.
IMZ News Department
August 26, 2009
Iranian sport climbers to participate in 18th
Asian Championship
Iran’s national sport climbing team composed of eight men and women will set out
toward South Korea tomorrow in order to take part in 18th Asian Climbing
Championship.
According to Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing report, Sobhan Jafari,
Mohsen Mohammad-Nezhad, Hamid-Reza Ghanimati, Navid Soufi-Zadeh, Reza Pakdel-Moghaddam
and Davoud Rekaabi along with Sadjadeh Soltani-Nezhad and Elnaz Rekaabi as female
competitors are the members of this team. They will accompanied by Ali-Reza Bagheri,
Mohammad Vahhabi, Nafiseh Mohammadi and Ahmad Shir-Mohammad as coaches.
It is really appreciable that beside regular competitions in Speed, Lead, Boulder, Dyno
and Relay Speed, there will be an opportunity for disabled climbers to reveal their
great volition during Para-Climbing comps.
The competitions will start on Thursday, August 27th in Chuncheon city of South Korea.
IMZ News Department
August 24, 2009
Arash Mountaineers showed their respects to mountains’ environment
Arash Mountaineers swept Broad Peak’s surrounding of remaining junks other than
their own to show their respect to mountains’ environment.
"At the end of new route project, our teammates carried all debris down the
mountain except fixed ropes, which were remained for next year’s attempt. We put
our own junks in 4 big barrels. An opportunity of a few days up to porters’
arrival in BC of Broad’s SW side was remained for us, so that we devoted it to
mountain’s environment, which resulted in 21 big barrels full of junks other than
ours." Kiyoumars Babazadeh told IMZ today.
According to Kiyoumars’ report, Arash expedition has passed three forth of
trekking route from BC to Askoli in few recent days. They are hoping to reach Askoli
tomorrow, where Jeeps are ready to carry them toward Skardu.
IMZ News Department
August 20, 2009
The first national festival of opening sport climbing
routes
The first national festival of opening new routes for the purpose of sport climbing will
be carried out by cooperation of Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport climbing
Federation and mountaineering council of Kerman province.
This three-day festival will begin on October 7th in natural parks of
Kerman with the aims of knowledge exchange between sport climbers, introducing new
proper regions for sport climbing in Kerman and promotion of clean climbing methods
based on environmental standards.
IMZ News Department
August 20, 2009
Mountaineering trainees to be validated for trekking
instructors’ course
The trekking committee of Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation is
going to validate mountaineering trainees to enter trekking instructors’ course.
In order to register in the test, mountaineers should show their certificates of
pre-training courses in trekking, rock climbing and ice climbing. Also it has to be
passed at least two years since their trekking course.
This test will be held for both genders on September 24th and 25th
in the vicinity of Mt. Tochal at northern side of Tehran.
IMZ News Department
August 17, 2009
Rest of Iranian expeditions are leaving Karakoram
Three remained Iranian expeditions who were attempting on GII, Broad Peak and Spantik
are leaving Karakoram region.
"Four of our teammates left BC to push the summit from normal route on Monday and
arrived in C3 on Wednesday, August 12th. They gave up summit push, collected
all debris in C3 and came back to BC on Thursday’s afternoon. Also two other
members transferred remaining stuffs in C1 to BC." Kiyoumars Babazadeh reported on
Thursday.
Hearing about Kazem Faridian release, Arash Mountaineers got so happy, while they were in a ceremony at the end of their 40-day attempt on Broad’s SW side.
Known Iranian summitter of K2 and Nanga Parbat, Kazem Faridin was arrested, while filming a street
demonstration after Presidential Election in Iran on June 25, 2009. He was recognized in the court pictures two weeks ago, before his release.
In the other side of Concordia passage, it is heard that Golestani mountaineers Hussain
Asghari and Mohammad-Reza Mir Ahmadi have summited GII, but there is still no photo
to prove the claim.
Tehran’s women as the last expedition arrived in Karakoram this season have left
Spantik’s BC after their summit on August 4th. They reached to Skardu
on Wednesday, 12th days of August.
IMZ News Department
August 14, 2009
"We were on Broad’s SW side prior to Arash
Mountaineers" French alpinist claimed
A few days ago, a marvelous electronic mail from a French alpinist hit IMZ News
mailbox.
"We were on Broad Peak’s SW side just before Arash Mountaineers and we opened
the route that they would like to open. We went up to 6500m during two days in an alpine
style." The French guy had written to IMZ News.
We immediately called Arash expedition’s leader and told him about the situation.
Kiyoumars Babazadeh said: "We came across two French alpinists during the days of
trekking from Askoli toward Broad Peak; they had abandoned their new route project on
Broad’s SW side and were backing toward Askoli."
"Our project started and there was no evidence of them before C1 on 5300m, but in
the middle of the rocky flank above C1, one of our teammates found a sling and two
karabiners. Arash Mountaineers kept on and after getting over the cornice around 6100m,
they caught the sight of another gear. It was an old Karabiner, whose antiquity goes
back to approximately thirty years ago. These evidences remind us of those French
alpinists."
According to French’s claim, Kiyoumars’ report and received photos from
both side, similarity of Iranian and French tracks on the first part of the route up to
6500m on Broads’ SW side is so probable.
To get more information on French’s attempt on Broad Peak’s SW side, click
here.
IMZ News Department
August 13, 2009
Various programs in 79th meeting of Iran
’s Alpine Club
The monthly meeting of Iran’s Alpine Club will be held for 79th time
in Tehran’s downtown on Wednesday, August 12th.
As usual, the first item is dedicated to mountaineering news from all over the world,
which will be reported by Abbaas Sabetian. The next program is introductory of two new
organized Iranian website in fields of mountains and mountaineering.
At the end of this gathering, Iranian Mehdi Amidi is going to give a report of his
achievement to Manaslu’s summit last May. It will be worthy to attend this item,
which will be carried out in presence of Mohammad Jafar asadi as the first Iranian
mountaineer stepped on Manaslu in 1934.
IMZ News Department
August 11, 2009
More about Iranian GII expeditions
Due to some quotations, which have been announced these days by Portuguese and Spanish
mountaineers about Iranian expeditions on GII, Kaveh Kashefi has written a few sentences
to make the situation clear.
"Do Iranians really reach the summit?" Tehran expedition’s leader
answered, "There was a big cornice on GII’s top, which had been formed during
snowy days prior to July 20th. Besides, the storm was in the way, and it was
going soon to be foggy. So it was not wise to ascend on such a dangerous and fragile
cornice in that condition and Iranians stopped in a distance but not fifty meters from
the summit."
Also, based on Polish Jacek Teler’s explanation, it is the same cornice that
Spanish Louis Barbero stepped on and disappeared for ever in the evening of July, 20.
IMZ’s Note: "It is almost the same explanation that Kaveh
has reported from Skardu on July 24th, while he calls it the summit cornice.
"
"The other claim is about the junks." Kaveh says:
«After Summit, Iranians returned back to C4 and put everything in their bag packs.
They did the same in C3 and C2 before heading toward C1.
There was large amount of mountaineering equipments and Junks in C1. We collected them
all and every one took his share, but still 90 kg of loads remained. Equipments were put
inside a yellow tent with "The North Face" trade mark, and two full gunnies of
Junks like the one "Altitude Junkies" had picked, and a smaller one fixed
beside the tent. We had planned to take them back to BC after weather improvement. Three
days later, I paid 180$ to four Pakistani porters, who went up and transferred the loads
to BC.»
"There was just one crevasse in a respectively far distance from C1. It was such
deep and dangerous that descending inside and hauling Gunnies of Junks out assumes as a
severe technical activity around C1. However, it is so astonishing that one could enter
and took package of debris out of crevasse." Kaveh told IMZ, when hearing about
tossing Junks by Iranians in a crevasse next to C1.
IMZ News Department
August 8, 2009
Third camp was set up on Broad’s SW side
Ten days after setting C2 up on SW side of Mt. Broad Peak, Arash Mountaineers set C3 in
a common place with normal route’s third camp.
"This afternoon, three members of us arrived in C3 on 7050m in expedition’s
second attempt, which was started from BC on Saturday, August 1st. They are
going to sleep tonight there while a supporter team composed of 2 climbers will do the
same in a mid camp between C2 and C3." Kiyoumars Babazadeh told IMZ News this
evening.
"Due to insufficient equipments and time, there is no chance remains for us to open
the rest of new route, which was in our mind from Tehran. If weather allows, the
supporters will join their teammates in C3 for an attempt to reach the summit from
normal route and if not, there is no way but bagging all stuffs and returning back to
BC." Babazadeh reported.
IMZ News Department
August 5, 2009
Tehrani Women’s expedition on top of Spantik
Attempting for 13 days since arrival in Spantik’s BC, women’s expedition of
Tehran province succeeded to attain the summit this afternoon.
According to official website of Tehran’s mountaineering council, On Tuesday, 28
th of July the expedition was in C2 and planning to go up toward C3 on the
next day, when weather worsening forced them back to BC.
After a 3-day rest in BC, they took the way up to C3. It was in Sunday’s afternoon
that women’s team set up C3 in 6300m. They spent whole Monday in C3 for more
acclimatization.
Eventually, today at daybreak, all expedition’s members except the leader set off
C3 for the summit push. After twelve hours Leila Ebrahimi, Parastou Abrishami, Shiva
Farsi, Fereshteh Khademi-talab, Masoumeh Maleki and Mahsa Moti-ei along with Mahmoud
Hashemi, Hadi Saberi and Abbaas Ranjbari summited Mt. Spantik at 2.30 P.M. this
afternoon.
In the heart of Karakoram, Arash Mountaineers are keeping on their new route project on
Broad Peak’s SW side yet.
"Four climbers went up to C1 today, hopping to finish the remaining part of route
between C2 and C3 in next few days. Also, two other members will take their place in C1
tomorrow." Kiyoumars Babazadeh told IMZ on Saturday.
IMZ News Department
August 4, 2009
Iranian women to Gyaji Kang (2008) will present their expedition report
Iranian national women’s expedition to Gyaji Kang (2008) will present their expedition report in Ghandi hall in Tehran on Tuesday, August 4, 2009.
Fereshteh Khademi-talab, Shima Jamshidi-far, Maryam Khamseh, Maryam Saei Parsa, Badri
Valian, Roghiye Salehi, Masoumeh Nazarzadeh and Azadeh Mo’ezi were eight lady members of this expedition, who succeeded to summit Gyaji Kang along with Pouria parchami (leader)
and Dr. Abolfazl Shahbazi (MD).
Gyaji Kang with 7058m height is located in "Nar Phu" valley in northern Nepal.
IMZ News Department
August 1, 2009
Iranian Karakoram expeditions’ update
Tehran and Sarab expeditions, who had topped GII last week, left BC toward Skardu on
Tuesday, July 28th, whereas Golestani mountaineers are still waiting for good
weather to start their summit push.
In the north-east side of Karakoram Range, Tehran’s women expedition, who has
arrived in Spantik’s BC on July 22nd, reached C2 in 5400m on Monday.
Based on a report by expedition’s leader Reza Kafash, they have been divided in
two groups From C1 on. The first team with two members goes up faster and makes the
route safe enough for the following group. On Tuesday, the second group arrived in C2,
while the pioneers were checking fixed ropes up to 5800m. All ten members of Spantik
expedition spent last night in C2, hopping to arrive in C3 in 6200m on the next day.
The advanced group could ascent up to 5800m on Tuesday; meanwhile the second group
arrived in C2. Spending last night in C2, they hope to reach C3 in 6200m in coming days.
On Broad Peak’s SW side, passing 29 days from arrival of Arash mountaineers in BC,
they are still attempting to reach C3.
"There were four mountaineers up the mountain during two recent days. Two of them
were opening the rest of SW route toward C3 and the others were carrying loads to C2. In
Tuesday’s afternoon, the advanced group stopped ascending around 6500m because of
unstable weather and returned back to C2 to spend the night along with the other two
teammates. Unstable weather forced them back to BC today in the morning." Kiyoumars
Babazadeh told IMZ in a direct call from BC on Wednesday.
"Till now, Arash Mountaineers have fixed approximately 2050m rope from 4900m to
6500m." Kiyoumars reported, while he was asking about the weather forecasts in
coming days.
IMZ News Department
July 29, 2009
Iranian climbers’ success in the 8th
Asian Youth climbing championship
The eighth Asian youth climbing championship in both categories of lead and speed
climbing was held from July 24th to 26th in Almaty, capital city
of Kazakstan.
According to a report by Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation, in the first
two days Fatemeh Jafari and Alireza Amirian took the first and second places in junior
’s lead, after three rounds of qualification, semifinal and final. Meanwhile in
youth’s lead, Sayeh Tajalli and Khosro Hashem-zadeh won third places respectively
in female and male comps.
In the last day, which was dedicated to speed competitions, Iman Ehsani-Far was graded
as the speediest climber in junior’s class, whereas Omid Sheikh-Bahaei took bronze
medal in youth’s class.
Also Iranian speed climbing team finally took the second place in both genders’
comps, where Fatemeh Jafari, Iman Ehsani-Far and Hesam Bagheri were participated.
These victories pushed Iran to the third place in the total ranking of this
championship, where Kazakstan and India won the first two places.
It is worth saying that, Alireza Bagheri, Abulfazl Fouladi, Farzad Forouzi, Iqbal Aflaki
and Zarifeh Rahim-zadeh were the members of supervisory team of seven Iranian young
climbers in this competition.
IMZ News Department
July 27, 2009
Meteorology course for mountaineers
Alpine Club of Iran is going to hold a training course on meteorology
for mountaineers.
In this 1-day training course, which will be carried out on 20th of august, 2009, Dr. Jafar Sepehri will talk about weather systems, temperature, various clouds and a few more subjects.
IMZ News Department
July 26, 2009
Second Camp on Broad’s SW side was set up
Having gone by 19 days since setting up C1 on SW side of Broad Peak, Arash Mountaineers
eventually pitch one tent around 6250m as C2 on Sunday, 26th of July.
"Contrary to forecasts, weather condition has been excellent since yesterday
morning, when five members of our expedition left BC to reach C2. In the way to C1, they
were divided in two groups. Two mountaineers proceeded to set up C2 in the
pre-determined spot around 6250m after one night sleeping in mid camp. Meanwhile, the
second group carried the loads to mid camp in 5950." Expedition leader told IMZ
News this evening.
"In addition to those five mountaineers, who are going to spend tonight in C2 and
mid camp, there are two mountaineers in C1 to support the advanced groups. We hope the
uppermost group keep on ascending and locate C3 tomorrow, while the others are carrying
necessities to C2." Babazadeh added.
According to the report, all the expeditions who were attempting on Broad’s normal
route, has left the mountain.
IMZ News Department
July 26, 2009
Zanjan’s expedition touched 6450m on Muzatagh Ata
Spending fourteen days outside of Iran, Zanjan’s expedition ascent up to 6450m on
Mt. Muztagh Ata in northern side of Tibet.
According to the official website of Zanjan’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing
council, the expedition set up C3 in that altitude on 22nd of July and
immediately returned back to BC due to weather worsening.
The climbers are looking forward for a good weather window to push the summit in the
coming days.
IMZ News Department
July 25, 2009
Arash Mountaineers will set off toward C2 tomorrow
Despite unstable weather in Broad Peak and K2 area, Arash Mountaineers will ascend
tomorrow in order to set C2 in predetermined location around 6250m on Broad’s SW
side.
In a call to IMZ News, the leader Kiyoumars Babazadeh said: "Weather condition was
so variable in few recent days and we had snow showers here in BC frequently in
afternoons. According to forecasts, the condition will keep on for the coming days, but
but there is no excessive time to wait. Five members of us will leave BC toward higher
camps tomorrow. They intend to pitch two tents in 6250m and pass the remaining distance
to 7100m, where we cross the normal route."
"Talking to Iranian expeditions in GII’s BC, they assured to provide us with
sufficient amount of rope we need." Kiyoumars added.
IMZ News Department
July 24, 2009
Arash Mountaineers located C2 in 6250m
Attempting for two days, two members of Arash expedition passed the cornice in 6200m of
Broad’s SW side and found an area of some square meters in 6250 for two tents as
C2.
"Four of us, who had spent Saturday’s night in C1, were divided in two
smaller groups. On Sunday, The first group set a tent in 5950 and went to open the rest
of route, while the second group’s members carried the requirements to that camp.
Eventually after one night rest in mid camp they finished first part of the route on
Monday, July 20th and arrived in a snow-full ridge, which heads toward C3 on
normal route." The leader Kiyoumars Babazadeh told to IMZ in a direct call from BC
on Tuesday.
Kiyoumars added: "The climbers has come back to BC and wait out bad weather in
Karakoram. In the coming days, we should traverse on snow-full slopes to reach C3 in
normal route, so we have to seriously be conscious about avalanche danger."
According to Babazadeh, they have fixed 1600m ropes on the rocky flank. The remaining
400 meters are not sufficient for the rest of route upper than C3, so they have to think
about a proper solution.
IMZ News Department
July 22, 2009
Five Iranian alpinists topped GII
Passing 22 days since Tehran and Sarab expeditions’ arrival in GII’s Base
Camp, five members of these two teams topped the summit on Monday, 20th of
July.
"On Sunday, July 19th, the pioneer group of Tehran expedition along with
members of Sarab team left C3 toward C4 in 7450m, while wind was surfing the mountain.
Sleeping that night in C4, three mountaineers from Sarab expedition joined four Tehrani
mountaineers and took the chance of last day before weather worsening to push the
summit. Simultaneously, the second group of Tehran mountaineers went up to support the
summit team." Tehran expedition’s leader, Kaveh Kashefi reported.
In the middle of the way to summit, two members of Tehran’s team gave up further
attempts and descent to C4. Eventually, at 13:45 on July 20, 2009, having gone by 12
years after Iran’s national mountaineering expedition’s summit, joint team
of three Sarabi and two Tehrani mountaineers registered the second GII summit in Iran’s Mountaineering History.
According to the received report, they spent last night in C3 and came down to C1 along
with other Iranians who were in higher camps this afternoon. The climbers are to descent
toward BC tomorrow whereas bad weather has arrived since this morning.
Among the pile of Iranians in C1, there are two mountaineers from Golestan province, who
were to push the summit from C3 but lost the chance due to coming bad weather.
They plan to push the summit in the next good weather window.
"Also a Spanish climber, who was attempting to summit GII on Monday, has
disappeared and not come back yet." Kaveh added.
IMZ News Department
July 21, 2009
Iranian Karakoram expeditions are still on
having trapped in GII’s BC during the past few days, Tehran’s climbers
succeeded to go up to 7100 and pitch C3, in a case that "Arash" mountaineers
are still putting their effort into setting C2 up on Broad’s SW side.
According to a report from Kaveh Kashefi, the leader of Tehran’s GII expedition,
leaving BC on Friday’s morning, they have been divided into two smaller groups of
5 and 6 climbers to reach C1 and C2 last night. Having started from C2, The leading
group composed of 6 climbers set up third camp this afternoon around 7100m, while the
other group was accommodated in C2.
As planned, the first group is to push GII’s summit tomorrow and the followers
will ascend to C3.
Also Sarab and Golestan expeditions on GII have arrived in C2 in the recent two days.
Some kilometers north west of GII, four members of Arash Mountaineers who had gone up
for opening the rest of route below C2 on Broad’s SW side, has been returned back
after an illness happened to one of them.
A few hours ago, Kiyoumars Babazadeh said to IMZ News on his Sat-phone: "Everything
is ok and the problem is no more exists. Arranging the forward team again, four men
ascent to C1 this morning to put their efforts on remaining pitches below the cornice,
which is considered as mix climbing. Another 4-member group will carry the requirements
to C1 tomorrow in the morning."
"In recent days, tens of mountaineers on Broad’s normal route have
taken the benefits of good weather to push the summit, but unfortunately today an
Italian climber fell and disappeared on a glacier above C3. There is no information
about the guy yet." Babazadeh reported from Base camp.
The last Iranian expedition in Pakistan that includes 6 women and 4 men arrived in
Skardu yesterday. They will begin their trip toward Spantik’s base camp in the
coming days.
IMZ News Department
July 18, 2009
Arash Mountaineers in C1
Seven members of Arash expedition went up to C1 on Broad’s SW side, while on GII,
Iranians are still in BC.
This afternoon in a call from BC of Broad Peak, Kiyoumars Babazadeh told IMZ News:
"Today, we had the best weather since our arrival in BC. Seven of us left BC early
in the morning to carry loads on a rocky flank up to C1. As we have only two tents,
three of them returned to BC after loading C1. The rest plan to climb the last part of
this rocky terrain and set our second camp above the cornice tomorrow."
"We have fixed already 1400 meters of ropes from BC at 4750m to 6000m during last
ten days." Babazadeh Added.
IMZ News Department
July 16, 2009
Women’s turn; Tehran’s women expedition left
for Mt. Spantik
After the wave of 34 Iranian men, who arrived in Karakoram during last month, now it is
Iranian women’s turn to try their chances on a high mountain there.
Passing seven months of selection and preparatory process, Tehran’s expedition of
women mountaineers left Iran for an attempt on Mt. Spantik with the height of 7027
meters in northern Pakistan on Wednesday, July 16th after one week delay with
respect to pre-determined departure time.
According to Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran, the expedition members
are Leila Ebrahimi, Parastou Abrishami, Shiva Farsi, Fereshteh Khademi-talab and
Masoumeh Maleki who are accompanied by Reza Kafash(Leader) and Mahsa Moti-ei(MD).
Mahmoud Hashemi, Hadi Saberi and Abbaas Ranjbari, are three guys, who will climb along
with the women in Spantik too.
IMZ News Department
July 16, 2009
Iranian expeditions have waited for weather improvement
All four Iranian expeditions, who are attempting on GII and Broad’s SW side, have
returned to BC since two days ago because of bad weather on higher camps.
Arash mountaineers’ leader said to IMZ News Department: "climbing a few more
pitches of rocky section over C1 on July 11 and 12, we got nearer to the end of rocks
higher than 6000m. A big cornice exists a few ten meters up the rocks, and as seems it
is the last obstacle to find some square meters for C2 around 6200m."
"On Saturday, 11th of July team members finally could pitch the second
tent in C1, so that more alpinists can attend teamwork on higher altitudes.
However, bad weather has been here from Sunday’s afternoon, therefore climbers
took the chance to return back to BC for some delicious yak’s meat" Babazadeh
added.
Also on GII, all members of Tehran and Golestan expeditions have returned back to BC
after sleeping one night in C2. While staying in C2, Tehran’s mountaineers have
gone up to 6700m for more acclimatization on July 11th.
The third Iranian GII expedition from "Sarab", have arrived in C2 around 6500m
in few recent days but bad weather alerts forced them back to lower camps although one
tent in C2 had been pitched.
IMZ News Department
July 14, 2009
"Omidvar" brothers recall their travel around
the world in Fifties
The monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will be held on Wednesday, 15th of
July in Tehran.
In the opening of this meeting, Abbaas Sabetian will give some news on mountaineering
events during the last month. Afterwards, Javad Nezamdoust will report about activities
of Alpine club’s Caving committee.
At the end of this meeting, Issa Omidvar is going to report the story of a trip around
the world in Fifties, while he stepped on South Pole along with his brother, Abdullah,
as the first Asian. They also traveled through Sahara in Africa, Amazon and North Pole
too.
They were the first Iranians, who set out such an all-around the world trip by
motorbike. For more information about Omidvar brothers, click
here.
Photo: Photo Archive of www.omidvar-brothers.com - Sherpa Tensing Norgay between Omidvar
brothers
IMZ News Department
July 14, 2009
"Detect big walls in your area", Alpine Club of
Iran announced
Alpine Club of Iran solicited climbers all over the country to detect big walls in their
regions.
The request has been announced to gather proper information before decision making by
Alpine Club of Iran and French GHM organization that are going to open up new routes on
unclimbed or unknown faces in Iran.
Holding an advanced big wall training course in Iran that was taught by GHM instructors,
Iran’s Alpine Club has developed mutual collaboration with this French
organization since two years ago.
IMZ News Department
July 12, 2009
Zanjan expedition headed toward Muztagh Ata
An expedition by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing council of Zanjan province left Iran
to China today, for an attempt on Mt. Muztagh Ata in northern edge of Tibet.
"The expedition includes thirteen Zanjani alpinists who have been picked among 45
mountaineers after passing eight selection and preparatory camps." Team leader,
Mohammad-Hasan Najarian told IMZ.
Farshad Esmaeil-zadeh, Farzad Araj, Hussain Mahdavi, Hussain Moghadam, Mohsen Sa’
eed-zadeh, Ali Bayat-manesh, Masoud Bayat-manesh, Shozab Markadi, Majid Darbani, Majid
Piri, Sa’eed Karimi and Behnam Salahshour are members of this expedition who need
approximately sixteen days to ascend Muztagh Ata peak (7546m).
Iranian expeditions on the way to C2 on Broad Peak and
GII
Tehran’s GII and Arash Mountaineers’ Broad Peak expeditions, hope to set
their second camps in coming two days.
"We could hardly find a small area around 5400m on Broad’s SW side to pitch
just one tent as C1 on Tuesday, 7th of July." Kiyoumars Babazadeh the
leader of Arash expedition, told IMZ in a direct call from BC.
"On Wednesday, 8th of July, we started to climb a rocky wall from 5400m
on, while approximately fifty mountaineers were going to reach higher camps on normal
route after a few days of bad weather on Broad Peak."Kiyoumars added.
According to Kiyoumars report, two members of the group had climbed a few more pitches
up to 5900m this afternoon, when the others were looking for a proper place to set
another tent in C1.
A few kilometers farther, all eleven members of Tehran expedition have arrived again in
C1 on GII this afternoon. They will leave for C2 on Friday at daybreak. At the same
time, "Sarab" expedition is still in BC after setting up first camp during
recent days.
It is worth saying that Araki mountaineer, Ali Solaimani, who had intended to summit GII
individually, gave up further efforts and turned back to "Skardu" after
touching 6500m. He arrived Iran today on the morning.
IMZ News Department
July 9, 2009
Enterance test for rock climbing’s instructor
training course
The mountaineering committee of Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing
federation, plans a test for those want to enter rock climbing’s instructor
training course.
Based on the committee’s regulations, participating in this test is allowable for
those climbers who have passed advanced rock climbing training workshop at least one
year ago.
The test will be held on July 30th in "Darband" region at the foot
of Mt. Tochal.
IMZ News Department
July 8, 2009
A festival to open new routes on Armenia’s big
walls
"Up The Rocks" club of Armenia is organizing "Armenian First Ascent Open
Festival (Arev)" in Armenia in a period of one month from July 1st to 31
st.
Receiving an invitation from Armenian club, Alpine Club of Iran has called big wall
climbers from all over the country to gather a team and attend the festival with the aim
of exchanging knowledge with climbers from other countries in addition to an increase in
Iranian climbers experience in big wall climbing.
According to Alpine Club’s official website, chosen expedition will participate in
the festival during the last ten days of July.
IMZ News Department
July 6, 2009
Caving instructors’ retraining camp will be held
in mid July
Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation will carry out a 3-day
retraining camp for level 3 caving instructors in men’s category from Wednesday,
15th of July.
Retraining courses are always carried out in order to update instructors’
knowledge and also be assumed as a permit for attending higher degree courses.
IMZ News Department
July 5, 2009
Latest news from Iranian expeditions in Karakoram
Arash mountaineers left 500 meters of fixed rope on the beginning section of Broad’s SW face to locate the safest point for Camp1.
Calling from BC, Kiyoumars Babazadeh said: "The process was started on Thursday’s morning while the snow and storm were gone away for a few hours. The climbers
determined where to set up C1 and then returned back to BC, because it was going to be
snowy again from Thursday’s night."
On the other side of Karakoram Range on GII, after twelve hours of going up in fresh
snow, Tehrani mountaineers arrived in Camp1 today in the afternoon, while they have
assumed to do it yesterday.
"The weather forecast on Thursday got wrong, so they forced to wait another
day to start their effort. Anyway, they have set up their tents today at 3:00 p.m. and
are going to sleep there for more acclimatization and descend to BC tomorrow."
Expedition’s contact told to IMZ.
IMZ News Department
July 4, 2009
Iranian expeditions will start for Camp 1 on GII at
Friday’s Daybreak
Iranian expeditions from Sarab and Tehran, who have arrived in base camp of Gasherbrum
II on Monday June 29, will go up to Camp 1 on Gasherbrum II on Friday at daybreak.
Their contact here in Iran told to IMZ News Department: "All of eight teams on GII
are still in their tents in BC and sit out the bad weather, which is going to be calm
temporarily from Thursday’s night, and Iranian said expeditions are to take this
opportunity to set up their tents in C1, although it will be still foggy."
"It is worth saying that, all twenty members of these two expeditions have ascent
for 3 hours higher than BC for acclimatization and marking the beginning part of route,
today in the morning." expedition’s contact added.
IMZ News Department
July 2, 2009
Arash mountaineers set their tents at the foot of SW face
of Broad Peak
The Iranian expedition from Arash mountaineers club of Tehran, who had left Iran in mid
June for a new route on Broad Peak, set their base camp farther than normal BC at the
foot of SW face of the mountain on Tuesday, June 30th.
On a call to IMZ News Department, Kiyoumars Babazadeh said: "Due to some official
affairs, we are the last of thirteen expeditions who have reached base camps to attempt
on K2 and Broad Peak mountains."
"The weather is so bad on the mountain and as it looks, we have to stay inside our
tents for the coming few days." The leader of ten Iranian alpinist told to IMZ,
while he was curious about the weather forecast.
IMZ News Department
July 1, 2009
Ali Solaimani touched 6500m on GII
Iranian Ali Solaimani, who had left "Araak" city of Iran on June 7th
for an attempt on Gasherbrum II, succeeded to touch Camp 2 of GII.
His contact here in Iran told to IMZ News Department: "Ali, who had arrived to G2
’s base camp on June 17, along with a local guide started his attempt three days
after his arrival to BC. He climbed to C2 in 6500m, where he spent a night up there. He
has come back to BC on Monday, June 28."
"During two recent days, Ali and his local guide were resting in their tent in BC
with unstable weather to recover from fever and cold." Ali’s contact added.
Ali Solaimany is the first among the pile of 23 Iranian climbers, who are going to
ascend GII in this season.
A ceremony to mark "National Day of Mt. Damavand
"
Thirteenth day of Tir(4th month in Persian calendar), which had been adopted
by ancient Iranians as a day to celebrate an old cultural festival called "Tiregan", has
been approved by Iranian mountaineers as "national Day of Mt. Damavand" since
2004.
In order to mark this event, Iran’s Alpine Club will hold a one-day congress in
city of "Rineh" at the southern foot of Damavand on July 2, 2009.
The meeting includes miscellaneous items such as a speech on Damavand’s
environment, a full report of cycling around the world which was done by Iranian Somaye
Yousefi and Jafar Edrisi during past year and live Iranian classical music.
"Tiregan" Festival refers to the archangel Tir (arrow) or Tishtar (lightning
bolt) who appeared in the sky to generate thunder and lightning for much needed rain.
Legend says that Arash-e Kamangir was a man chosen to settle a land dispute between two
leaders, Iran and Turan. Arash was to shoot his arrow on the 13th day of Tir and where
the arrow landed, there would lay the border between the two kingdoms. Also, according
to the famous Iranian scientist, Abu reyhan Birooni, "Tiregan" is a day to
respect Iranian authors’ status.
IMZ News Department
June 30, 2009
Deadly fall on Mt. Milfarangi in Yazd province
A fatal accident happened to one of the members of an expedition of nine Yazdi
mountaineers while descending the northern side of mount "Milfarangi" in
"Mehriz" city of Yazd province on Friday, June 19. In this event Hussain
Ghotb-e-ddini lost his stability after a rock stroke and fell fifty meters of vertical
distance to die in the height of 3800m on the mountain.
Ahmad Reza Khanjan Khani, member of search team said to IMZ News: "Soon after the
event, a helicopter search started, but evacuation appeared to be impossible because of
rocky surrounding of crash location. Therefore, the search operation was delegated to
mountaineers."
"Fifteen alpinists reached the place around 11:00 PM and waited till Saturday’s morning to begin dead body transfer. Eventually, after 1200 meters of technical
descent on the rocky north face of "Milfarangi", the operation finished at
around 3:30 PM on Saturday." Khanjan Khani added.
Located in the heart of Yazd province in "Adoroshk" region, Milfarangi with
the height of 3950m is known as a difficult and technical mountain among central
mountains of Iran.
The third Iranian G2 Expedition this season:
"Sarab" city’s team left Iran
Beside the 11-member Tehran’s Expedition and a team of two mountaineers from
"Golestan" province in north of Iran, an expedition of nine alpinists from
"Sarab" city in North-West of Iran set out to Gasherbrum II.
The head of mountaineering and sport climbing council of Sarab said to IMz News
Department: "Holding eight preparatory and selection camps since the beginning of
2009, nine mountaineers were picked to gather in an expedition for an attempt on G2 from
the normal route on SW side in a period of approximately fifty days."
"The expedition members are Samim Nemati, Ali Sakhtemani, Abbaas Naser, Reza
Afsari, Alireza Jalali, Iraj Ma’ali and Dr. Javadi, the expedition physician who
are led by Farshad Khalili and his assistant, Reza Bahadorani." Maghsoud Zareei
Nasab added.
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