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Iran’s national expedition set out toward Dhaulagiri

Iran's national expedition for Dhaulagiri Today at daybreak, Iran’s national expedition composed of 13 alpinists left Tehran toward Katmandu for an attempt on Mt. Dhaulagiri in the coming season.
Jalal Cheshmeh Ghsabani, Azim Gheychi-Saz, Abbas Ranjbari, Ali-Reza Behpour (doctor), Iraj Ma’ani, Seyed Vaase Seyed Mousavi, Majid Nematollahi, Hadi Saberi, Seyed Husain Salehi, Mohammad Naderian, Seyed Mahmoud Hashemi and Mohammad Nasiri will be led by head of Mountaineering Federation of Iran (MFI), Mahmoud Shoaei during a period of approximately 60 days on Dhaula’s NE ridge.


IMZ News Department
March 16, 2010


End results of 10th Fajr Climbing Championship in female’s category

Female’s competitions during the 10th Fajr climbing Championship finished on Friday, March 12th, when Zanjan gained the first prize among 13 teams.
Lead’s final and all speed comps had been left for the end day. After a breathtaking vying on a 5.12d for the chance to become women’s lead champion, Elnaz Rekabi from Zanjan achieved the best result as she did in bouldering two days before and defended her title as member of national climbing team. She then followed by Fatemeh Jafari from Kerman and arghavan Sedaghat-Kish from Gilan. It is worth saying that Elnaz had done the same performance in the 9th championship.
Women’s Speed championship was gained by Sajedeh Soltani-Nezhad from Kerman, where 17 competitors from 13 provinces had participated. Following her, Farnaz Esmaeil-Zadeh from Zanjan and Nadia Javandel again from Kerman took the next prizes.
Therefore, in the end of the women’s attempt in the 10th Fajr Climbing Championship, Zanjan, Kerman and Tehran teams were listed respectively as the top three teams.


IMZ News Department
March 13, 2010


10th Fajr climbing Championship;8 top women into lead’s final round

Lead competitions of the 10th Fajr Climbing Championship in female’s category got nearer to its end point, when 8 top women got into final round.
"Lead’s qualification was held on Thursday, March 11th in the morning. Thirty three climbers from 13 provinces had signed up and 26 of them entered in next round, which had been planned for the afternoon," reported competition’s supervisor, "climbers led up a 5.12a that afternoon to be admitted for the final round, where at the end Elnaz Rekabi and Sima Solaimani from Zanjan, Fatemeh Jafari and Samira Afzali-Kakh from Kerman, Arghavan Sedaght-Kish from Gilan, Negar Varshow-Chi from Hamedan, Maryam Sanjideh from Hormozgan and Khadijeh Jahan-Bakhsh from Tehran took the chance."


IMZ News Department
March 11, 2010


ACI to analyze wilderness disasters since last spring

In order to make a complete analysis of mountain disasters since last spring, Alpine Club of Iran (ACI) has called all specialists to review these events by more details.
Abbas Mohammadi, head of ACI told IMZ: "This idea originated after the big avalanche in middle Alborz range, where 7 people along with famous Farshad Khalili were hit to their death on February 4, 2010 to bold it as one of the most disastrous days in country’s mountaineering history."
"Also on May 4, 2009, Mehdi Etemadi-Far fell to his death, while pushing Dhaulagiri’s summit in a bad weather and after that, Abbas Jafari, a well-known alpinist and one of the foregoers of wilderness exploring in Iran missed on September 7, 2009, when kayaking in Trishuli river in Nepal," Mohammadi said, "these three happenings persuade us to entitle our idea; "Why experienced people entrapped evitable disasters in wilderness?"."


IMZ News Department
March 11, 2010


10th Fajr climbing Championship; Elnaz Rekabi won women’s bouldering

Nasrin Abdolrahimi, Elnaz Rekabi, Fatemeh Jafari

Semi-final and final rounds of women’s bouldering competitions of 10th Fajr Climbing Championship were carried out today, March 10th, where Elnaz Rekabi topped the podium.
"Semi-final round was held on 4 routes, where Elnaz Rekabi and Farnaz Esmaeil-Zadeh from Zanjan, Nasrin Abdolrahimi from Tehran, Fatemeh Jafari and Saye Tajali-Zadeh from Kerman beside Fatemeh Solaimani from Hamedan validated for the final round. Four harder bouldering routes were set for the final round, where Elnaz Rekabi beat the others and took the bouldering’s gold medal like in 9th championship. She followed up by Nasrin Abdolrahimi and Fatemeh Jafari," Mansooureh Gorgi reported.


IMZ News Department
March 10, 2010


10th Fajr Climbing Championship; women’s bouldering started

The 10th Fajr Climbing Championship in women’s category started today, March 9th in Enghelab sporting complex of Zanjan city and will go on till Friday’s night.
"Bouldering’s qualification was held among 31 women from 11 provinces on 5 routes and 20 of them succeeded to enter in the second round, which has been planned for tomorrow, March 10th," told Masoumeh Gorji, competition’s supervisor.
Women’s lead and speed competitions will be held on March 11th and 12 th.


IMZ News Department
March 9, 2010


International Day of Action for Rivers; Iranians review huge projects of dam construction

Internation Day of action for rivers Aiming to review huge projects of dam construction during recent years in Iran, domestic environmentalists will join international movement for river protection one day prior to March 14th.
The first gathering will be held on March 13th in Beheshti University to verify affects of dam construction on rivers’ environment and lagoons. Afterwards environmentalist will go to Abbas-Pour University, which belongs to ministry of energy for a conversational debate with university’s staff on dam construction projects on March 14th.
The last congress will be held on March 15th in Tonekabon city, north of Iran, where women’s society against environmental pollution hopes to get more fans against dam construction projects.


IMZ News Department
March 9, 2010


10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men’s category came to its end

Hamid-Reza touzande-Jani 10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men’s category finished on Friday, March 5, whereas Sobhan Jafari and Hamid-Reza Touzande-Jani took the first places in lead and speed categories.
"At the end of semi-final round that was held among 26 climbers on a route with difficulty grade of 5.13a, Davoud Rekabi and Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh from Khuzestan, Mohammad Jafari and Sobhan Jafari from Kerman, Amir-Hamzeh Pour-Shafi from Kermansheh, Khosro Hashem-Zadeh from Luristan, Masoud Ghsemi and Artimes Farshad-Yeganeh from Tehran entered in the final stage, which had been planned for Friday’s morning," Mohammad Tabibi reported, "but lead’s final stage came along with a strange event, when Davoud, Gholam-Ali and Khosro were omitted due to their late return to isolation. However, lead’s final route had been set to be as difficult as 5.13c, where Sobhan, Amir-Hamzeh and Mohammad won three first prizes."
Sobhan Jafari The last contest was held among 43 climbers from 12 provinces in Speed category since Friday’s morning. Hamid-Reza Touzande-Jani from Qazvin took the first place and followed up with his team-mate Mohsen Shafi’ei and Omid Sheikh Bahaei from Kerman.
At the end of four day compelling competition in lead, bouldering and speed categories, Kerman, Qazvin and Khuzestan sponsored by National Iranian South Oil Company (NISOC) got the top scores in final team result of 10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men’s category.


IMZ News Department
March 6, 2010


10th Fajr Climbing Championship; Lead’s qualification held among 106 climbers

More than hundred climbers from 24 provinces started men’s Lead competitions of 10th Fajr Climbing Championship started this morning.
Mohammad Tabibi said to IMZ News: "Qualification stage was held in the morning among 106 climbers on two 5.12bc route(to be quicker) with Flash format and at last 26 climbers entered semi-final round, which is going to be started from 6:00 p.m."


IMZ News Department
March 4, 2010


10th Fajr Climbing Championship; Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh won men’s bouldering

Gholam-Ali with Artimes Farshd Yeganeh in his back

Competing with 79 climbers, gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh was known as winner of men’s bouldering in 10th Fajr climbing championship.
"Qualification round was held on Tuesday, March 2nd during which 79 climbers from 21 provinces put their efforts on 5 separate routes to be among 20 climbers entering semi-final round. Competitions in semi-final stage started this morning on 4 routes, where 6 top climbers were validated for the final round. Finalists competed on 4 harder routes and at last Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh, who was sponsored by National Iranian South Oil Company (NISOC), following by Mohammad Jafari and Hamid-Reza Touzande-Jani respectively from Kerman and Qazvin provinces won three first prizes," told Mohammad Tabibi, competition’s supervisor.


IMZ News Department
March 3, 2010


Iran’s national expedition formed for Dhaulagiri, 2010

Dhaulagiri's NE ridge from Muktinath village

Holding 7 selection camps, Himalaya Committee of Mountaineering and Climbing Federation of Iran (MCFI) eventually chose 7 mountaineers for 2010 Dhaulagiri expedition.
Iraj Ma’ani from Ardebil, Seyed Vaase Seyed Mousavi from Kurdistan, Majid Nematollahi from Luristan, Hadi Saberi and Seyed Husain Salehi both from Karaj and three Tehrani Mountaineers; Mohammad Naderian, Seyed Mahmoud Hashemi and Mohammad Nasiri are validated mountaineers for this expedition, who will set out toward Dhaulagiri in Mid March accompany by MCFI’s head as expedition’s leader, Jalal Cheshmeh-Ghasabani, Azim Gheychi-Saz, Ali-Reza Behpour (doctor) and Abbas Ranjbari.
Also Amin Moeen from Hamedan and Husain Asghari from Golestan were chosen as reserve members of the expedition.
It’s worth saying that two unsuccessful attempts have been done already by Iranian mountaineers on Dhaulagiri in 2006 and 2009.


IMZ News Department
March 3, 2010


10th Fajr Climbing Championship; 70 climbers registered for men’s bouldering

10th Fajr Climbing Championship

Registration for men’s bouldering competitions of 10th Fajr Climbing Championship has started this morning in "Enghelab" sporting complex of Zanjan city and will go on a few hours.
"Iran’s mountaineering and climbing federation had supposed each of 28 provinces to nominate at most 7 men for bouldering comps. Till now (19:00 on Monday), almost 70 climbers from 15 provinces have been registered for bouldering comps, which will be held in three rounds of qualification, semi-final and final during coming two days," told competition’s supervisor, Mohammad Tabibi.
According to Mohammad, lead and speed comps will be executed on March 4th and 5th.


IMZ News Department
March 1, 2010


8 years passed to write down another winter ascent of German flank

Shan-e-Kouh and Alam-Kouh peaks

The technically semi-difficult ridge at west side of Alam-Kouh peak, known as "German Flank" was eventually climbed by three alpinists from mountaineers club of "Karaj" city, after a few unfinished attempts since the beginning of 80’s in solar calendar.
Amir Moghimi (leader), Ehsan Partovi-Nia and Navid Azimi left "Roudbarak" shelter toward "Sarchal" hut on Friday, February 11th and spent the next day inside due to temporary bad weather. They had 3 days of stable weather condition from Sunday on, according to latest forecasts, so they set out toward a pass between "Shan-e-Kouh" and "Alam-kouh" peaks, which is assumed as the start point for "German Flank".
German Flank "We started around 6:00 a.m. on Monday, February 14th in a completely sunny, but cold weather. It took us 16 hours to climb that rocky snow-full flank in alpine style and reach Alam-Kouh’s summit at 4860m. To return back to our camp, we had mind west slopes of "Khersan" peak at summit’s SW; therefore we trekked toward a metallic hut on the way to "Khersan" and spent that night there. The next day had been supposed as the end of good weather window, but unfortunately it had been changed, when we got up in the morning. There was no way just waiting out bad weather inside that doorless hut with a few amounts of nuts and a cooking stove. We stayed there for 2 other nights and eventually descent on Thursday, February 18th," Navid said.
Despite a few unfinished and sometimes disastrous attempts done during past 8 years, it is the second time that Iranian mountaineers manage to accomplish a winter attempt on German Flank since 2002, although the previous success was achieved by a large group in siege style in February, 2002.


IMZ News Department
February 27, 2010


Level-1 route setting and judging courses for the first time in Iran

participants in route setting course

First set of Iranian level-1 referees and route setters were trained under the supervision of two IFSC certified Belgium specialists in "Davoudi" renovated climbing gym between February 18th and February 21st.
"Judging course was carried out on first two days, when 17 qualified judges learned how to make decision in some special cases during competitions. This course was instructed by Wim Verhoeven, who directs IFSC rules commission," said course organizer, Hamid Keyvani.
"The other course began on Friday, February 19th, where 10 experienced enough route setters took a 3-day training class by Belgium Jerome de Boeck, who was suffering from an injury in his hand. Jerome advised attendees to become specialist either in bouldering route’s setting or lead route’s setting. Also he pointed out that a brilliant route setter should enable competitors to show all their talents, not just using their physical abilities," Keyvani added.
It is worth saying that Iran’s mountaineering and sport climbing federation is going to host Asian youth championship, 2010.


IMZ News Department
February 25, 2010


ACI’s 85th public meeting to be focused on caving

The 85th public meeting of Alpine Club of Iran (ACI) will be held on Thursday, February 25th from 6:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. in "Shafagh" culture hall.
As usual, the gathering will start with a short review of mountaineering events over the world by Abbas Sabetian, ACI’s public affair executive. Afterwards, Saeid Hashemi-Nezhad will report last September’s caving expedition in Lebanon. Then Javad Nezam-Doust speaks about caving congresses, which have been done in Iran and at the end of meeting, Yousef Vaghef will talk about a cave rescue exercise that was done during last January.


IMZ News Department
February 24, 2010


Damavand summit left untouched in 31st anniversary’s attempt

Mountaineers, who were to summit Mt. Damavand in the 31st anniversary of Islamic Revolution, pushed back by coming bad weather.
"Thirty three women beside 173 men had come from 28 provinces of country for an attempt on Mt. Damavand (5671 m), highest peak in Iran. They divided into five groups of 17, 14, 137, 19 and 19 mountaineers, who set out toward north, north-east, south, west and south side of SW ridges. The latter one, which is also known as "Vazan " ridge is of less fame than the former four ridges. Due to bad weather coming along with extreme wind, expeditions were called off somewhere around 5000 m and returned back on Saturday, February 13th,"said head of mountaineering committee of MFI, Reza Zareei.


IMZ News Department
February 18, 2010


Third ice climbing festival of Iran finished on Saturday

Hamaloun ice climbing school

Third ice climbing festival of Iran was held by Alpine Club of Iran (ACI) in "Roudbar-e-Ghasran" region, north of Tehran from February 10th to 13th.
"Forty four enthusiastic people from Tehran, Boroujerd, Mahabad, Rasht and Roudsar cities had participated, who were mostly qualified as beginner ice climbers. Therefore, festival’s time mainly spent for training ice climbing and dry tooling principles on "Abnik" icefall and icefalls of "Hamaloun" ice climbing school, " told festival’s coordinator, Farnoush Raeisi.
Hamaloun ice climbing school Since its initiation three years ago, Iran’s ice climbing festival has held in "Roudbar-e-Ghasran" region in middle Alborz range. We asked Farnoush about the reason and she said: "In comparison to other ice climbing spots over the country, icefalls in "Roudbar-e-Ghasran" are more appropriate for this kind of festival firstly due to their accession to roads, secondly they offer ice climbing possibility over longer time in cold seasons and third reason is diversity of icefalls from the point of difficulty, which varies from slab icefalls like "Abnik" to steeper ones like "Bagh-Gol" and icefalls of "Hamaloun" school."
Masoud Hamidi beside Mohammad Sabouri and Afshin Yousefi were members of technical board of third festival.

Photos: Achive of www.alpineclub.ir


IMZ News Department
February 14, 2010


A large expedition will head up Mt. Damavand tomorrow

A large expedition composed of mountaineers from all over the country will attempt to summit Mt. Damavand (5671 m) via four different sides in the 31st anniversary of Islamic Revolution.
According to MFI’s official website, the opening ceremony will be held tomorrow, February 10th in the morning in "Polour" shelter at Damavand’s southern foot. Afterwards, attendees will depart in four groups to head toward south, north, west and north-east sides of the mountain.
As planned before, three mountaineering councils of Hamedan, Khorasan Razavi and Tehran provinces along with MFI are considered as expedition’s leader on each side.


IMZ News Department
February 9, 2010


A Lead competition in memorial of late Mohammad Davoudi

A lead competition for fresh trainees will be held in "Davoudi" indoor climbing gym tomorrow, February 8th from 17:00 on.
"This competition will be held in memorial of MFI’s old days’ vice ] president late Mohammad Davoudi, who died of pulmonary edema in Takht-e-Solaiman region twenty years ago. Only those trainees, who endorsed by their instructors are allowed to attend,"said Mohammad Tabibi, gym manager.


IMZ News Department
February 7, 2010


Search efforts finished; famous "Farshad Khalili" in death index

Farshad Khalili

The well-known Iranian mountain guide and member of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering Club (DSMC), Farshad Khalili is among the listed dead victims of avalanche disaster.
"Finding the last dead body that belongs to the only female victim of this disaster, search and rescue efforts were finished. Therefore, Akbar Keshavarz, Mehdi Khorasani, Hamid Kazem-Zadeh, Ali Akbar Ebrahim-Zadeh, Farshad Khalili, Majid Shahpari and Nadia Najafi from "DSMC" beside Saeid Taheri from "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group of Tehran were listed as dead victims of avalanche disaster in Mid Alborz," told Babazadeh, the leader of search and rescue efforts.
It is worth saying that, Saeid Taheri is one of those two alpinists, who along with his rope-mate were to do alpine climb of Alam-Kouh wall in winter. Bad weather had forced them to leave the mountain, but they were to return as soon as possible.


IMZ News Department
February 5, 2010


Latest news about avalanche disaster in Mid Alborz

Members of search and rescue teams managed to survive 23 of avalanche victims in Mid Alborz and dig out seven dead bodies till this noon.
Kiyoumars Babazadeh, leader of search operations said to IMZ News: "Disaster has happened at 3:45 P.M. on Thursday, February 4, 2010, while three back to back avalanches swept everything downside the SE slopes of Mt. "Koloun-Bastak" in a duration of less than 10 minutes and each time hit a pile of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering club’s members, who were returning from a training class. Meanwhile, a member of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group of Tehran caught the sight of that horrible event, while he was getting back from "Dizin" skiing pad. He proceeded to help those victims, but another mass of falling snow ran over him."
"We are involved in a vast avalanche zone," he explained about rescue efforts, "where just two dead bodies were discovered till last night and 23 people were survived. However since early hours of Friday’s morning till now (Friday’s noon), with an increase in the number of search teams, five dead bodies were taken out of snow but still one of the victims is buried in an unknown place."


IMZ News Department
February 5, 2010


Avalanche in Mid Alborz; Rescuers on the way

Avalanche caused disaster today, February 4th in middle Alborz region, while more than 20 members of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering Club were to learn how to dig a snow cave.
According to received reports, some of the attendees were hit by avalanche. Early rescue operations by others have resulted in emersion of a few victims. However, equipped search and rescue teams will soon arrive at the zone.
According to weather information, heavy snowing has been started since Wednesday, February 3rd in Middle Alborz.


IMZ News Department
February 4, 2010


Sixth stage of selection process spent on "Abnik" ice fall

Attendees of sixth camp

Sixth stage of selection process to choose members of national mountaineering team was carried out on January 28th and 29th in middle Alborz.
"We had checked attendees’ abilities in high altitude conditions during last five camps, which caused us to choose another style for the sixth one. Therefore, 17 approved mountaineers of fifth camp were transported to "Abnik" ice fall, which is approximately 60 degrees inclined and looks proper to practice glacier rope techniques and ice climbing," told Pouria Parchami, head of MFI’s Himalayan ascent committee.
A few days after sixth stage, instructors Reza Zareei, Omid Amohammadi and Mahmoud Mir-Nouri issued a list of 12 approved alpinists to go under another high altitude test on Mt. Damavand from February 9th on for 5 days.


IMZ News Department
February 4, 2010


Two Iranian cavers will join caving in the Abode of the Clouds 2010

Aiming to participate in an international caving expedition in NE side of India, Leila Esfandyari and Erfan Fekri will leave Tehran toward New Delhi on Friday, February 5th.
Erfan Fekri said to IMZ News: ""we are invited by British coordinator of the expedition, Simon Brooks to take part in an international team composed of 22 European, 2 Iranian and 6 Indian cavers. This expedition has planned to survey and explore a few caves in a region known as "Abode of the Clouds" located in Megalaya, north east of India during a period of 20 days."
According to his report, a few training courses in the fields of caving and speleology has been assumed to be held besides surveying the caves, e.g. a diving course, which will be taught by twelve Indian shipmen.
These two Iranian cavers are sponsored by ACI, Damavand Mountaineering and Ski Club and "Lavasan" Mountaineering group.


IMZ News Department
February 1, 2010


"Roudbar-e-Ghasran" hosts ice climbing festival of Iran for the third time

Alpine Club of Iran (ACI) called ice climbers from all over the country to participate in the "3rd Ice climbing Festival of Iran".
According to their official announcement, this festival will be held from February 10th to 13th again in "Roudbar-e-Ghasran" district, middle Alborz
During recent three years, "Iran’s Ice Climbing Festival" has been held by ACI after its delegation’s return from annual French Ice climbing festival in "Ecrins".


IMZ News Department
February 1, 2010


Members of "Hemmat Shemiran" sit out bad weather in Tehran!

Extreme weather and nonstop snowing push all members of "Hemmat Shemiran" team, who were to hold an attempt on northern wall of Alam-Kouh peak, downside the mountain.
"Six people were jailed in "Sarchal" hut hopping for stable weather condition from Friday’s night on, but new coming forecasts on Friday, January 22nd led them to despair of any improvement so that they preferred to get back to their hometown and wait out bad weather from Tehran," said Hussain Azimi, head of public affairs committee of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group.


IMZ News Department
January 26, 2010


Mojtaba Khodaei won 7th round of Tehran’s 2nd indoor climbing league

Seventh round of the 2nd climbing league of Tehran was held on Thursday, January 21st in "Chahar-Dangh" climbing gym, SW of Tehran.
Moahhamd Tabibi reported: "The 7th competition was held on a route with difficulty grade of 5.12d among 28 climbers from 9 clubs. Finally, whereas Artimes Farshad Yeagneh and Masoud Ghasemi from "Tarbiat Modares" club were again amongst the three first champions, Mojtaba Khodaei took the first prize as a member of "Hemmat Shemiran" club. Also, at the end of this round, "Hemmat Shemiran" outpointed other clubs such as "Tarbiat Modares", "Davoudi" and "Ghianouri", but later clubs are still the most probable winners of the 2 nd climbing league of Tehran."


IMZ News Department
January 24, 2010


Alpinists of "Hemmat Shemiran" jailed in "Sarchal" hut

Arriving at alam-Chal CWM

Alpinists of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group, who has been in "Takht-e-Solaiman" region since last Thursday, got back to "Sarchal" hut due to snowy and windy weather.
"Fixing the ropes between the edges of "Alam-Chal" glacier and beginning of the wall, Bouye Sadat-Nia and Saeid Taheri along with three other friends left their camp and arrived in "Sarchal" hut yesterday", their contact in Tehran said, "since this morning, snowing has been replaced with strong wind up to coming night, so that they have to sit out bad weather again, which is predicted to be snowy until Friday’s night."
The supporting team members are changing every so often, except Rasoul Naghavi.


IMZ News Department
January 20, 2010


A mountaineering ceremony to mark Islamic Revolution

North side of Zarrin-Kouh and frozen Tar Lake at the bottom

Mountaineers of Tehran province are going to mark the 31st anniversary of Islamic Revolution with ascending 12 routes in East Alborz ridge from February 3rd on for three days.
This gathering is organized by Damavand city’s mountaineering council along with because of its convenient access to highest peaks in East Alborz. Doberar(4250 m), Souz-Cahl(4150 m), Angemar(4150 m), Chingiz-Chal(4050 m), Zarrin-Kouh (3850 m) from northern and southern sides, Gol-e-Zard(3750 m), Mian-Roud(3600 m), Ashnedar(2850 m), Tale-Kamar(2800 m) and Margh(2700 m) beside a trekking route toward beautiful "Tar " lake at the southern foot of "Doberar" peak is those 12 predetermined routes for this ceremony.
Since 2008, it is the third time that mountaineers of Tehran do such an ascent to indicate Islamic Revolution.


IMZ News Department
January 18, 2010


Tehran’s mountaineering teams are going to be arranged for 2010

Like last two years, Tehran’s Council of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing is going to start a selection and preparation process to gather 2010 expeditions for men and women, but in youth category.
According to their official website, each MFI admitted mountaineering club in Tehran is allowed to introduce 4 male and 4 female mountaineers for the first stage of this process, which will be held on January 28th on Mt. Tochal.
Tehran’s expeditions have been achieved to the summit of BroadPeak (8046 m), Gasherbrum II (8035 m) and Spantik (7027 m) during last two years.


IMZ News Department
January 17, 2010


Beginning of a winter attempt on Alam-Kouh wall in alpine style

Alam-Kouh wall , Takht-e-Solaiman region

An expedition of 20 mountaineers from "Hemmat Shemian" Mountaineering Group left Tehran toward "Roudbarak" village in "Kelardasht" city of Mazandaran province on January 13th for an attempt on Alam-Kouh peak’s granitic wall in alpine style.
""Including Bouye Sadat-Nia and Saeid Taheri, we were 20 people arriving in "Roudbarak" village in the evening of Wednesday, January 13th. Next day, the well-known mountain guide of Takht-e-Solaiman region, Rasoul Naghavi was added and 21 people set out toward "Sarchal" at 3900m. Most of technical equipments and food stuffs had been loaded in "Sarchal" hut during last few weeks, so whole Friday was dedicated to transferring the necessary stuffs to "Alam-Chal" glacier at the foot of the wall, setting up a camp and digging a snow cave. Afterwards, 10 members returned to Tehran," said spokesman of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group, Hussain Azimi.
Hussain Added: "Bouye and saeid will start their attempt from "Polish-1973" route in coming few days. Going up to a wide ledge called "Ghomghomeh" in the middle of the wall; they will continue from "Shokouh" route toward the summit at 4868m, which is much less subjected to snow accumulation during cold season. Five days has been planned to climb that 700-meter wall."
It’s worth saying that, Bouye was a member of supporting team for an expedition from Sharif University of Technology, who climbed the same route during January, 2001 but in siege style.


IMZ News Department
January 16, 2010


"Boornik" cave deepened about 45 meter more than before

In the earliest survey of "Boornik" cave, an expedition of 5 cavers from Caving Committee of MFI found new passages totally with 1200 m length.
This survey has been started since last July, where leader Vahid Masdari along with his team mates achieved a few new branches totally with 1200 m length with respect to the last topography done by Austrian "Ernest Geyer" in 2009.
"The topographic sketch of "Boornik" has been already prepared for 11 times and according to the most recent one all braches has 1100 m length together and the deepest one penetrates to the depth of 145m, where we have increased it to 2300 m and the deepest branch goes 190m underground. Surveying new branches needs technical methods," Vahid Said.
"Boornik" cave belongs to category of karst caves and it is Located 120 km east of Tehran, near beautiful "Haran-Deh" village beside the road to Firouz-Kouh city.


IMZ News Department
January 12, 2010


Training courses for members of "NPMH" staff starts today

Training procedure for those involve in "Notification and Prevention of Mountain Hazards" plan will start in a few hours, where Mehdi Davar-Pour talks about "Techniques and Principles of Public Training"".
In addition to techniques of public training, other sessions will be held regularly until February 2nd on the themes of "Compartment and Communication Skills", "Safe Trekking", "Environment", "Avalanche", "Safe Routes for trekking on Mt. Tochal" and "Hypothermia".
"NPMH" is a two-year old project, which has been voluntarily carried out by cooperation between Tehran’s Council of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing and mountaineering clubs all over Tehran, to increase public awareness about true and safe trekking on Mt. Tochal, north of Tehran.


IMZ News Department
January 10, 2010


Attendees’ durability was checked during fifth selection camp

The story of selecting national mountaineering team’s members passed its 5th stage during a 3-day camp on south side of Mt. Damavand from December 30th to January 1st.
"Omitting 2 participants of fourth camp, 23 mountaineers were called to fifth test on south side of Mt. Damavand, where their durability and strength were tested by two time ascent up to a place known as "Ice Fall" around 5100m," Said head of MFI’s Himalaya committee, Pouria Parchami.
Jalal Cheshme-Ghasabani from Hamedan, Pouria Parchami from Tehran and Azim Gheychi-Saz from East Azerbaijan were respectively the leader and instructors of this camp.


IMZ News Department
January 4, 2010


A course to train Level-3 instructors in females’ sport climbing

Tehran’s council of mountaineering and sport climbing is going to hold a training course to prepare a few more level-3 instructors for sport climbing in females’ category.
This course provides participants with essential skills to train a newcomer both in indoor climbing and outdoor sport climbing circumstances. Therefore indoor climbing’s subjects will be given in "Resalat" climbing gym of Tehran during January 13th and 14th, while outdoor section is planned to be held in "Band-e-Yakhchal" climbing resort, northern Tehran from February 20th to 21st. Holding an entrance exam for sport climbing trainees two weeks ago, Khadijeh Sadjadian from Shiraz, Sima Shojaeei from Tehran and Elham Jamshid-Beyk from Qazvin were qualified to take the course.


IMZ News Department
January 3, 2010


Masoud Ghasemi won the 6th round of 2nd climbing league

Having gone by three weeks after the 5th round of 2nd climbing league of Tehran, the 6th one was held in "Ghianouri" climbing gym in south side of Tehran on Friday, 1st of January.
Mohammad Tabibi reported: "The competition started at 9:00 A.m. in "Ghianouri" gym among 45 climbers from 9 clubs, who led a difficult route with grade 5.13a. Finally, the third winner of previous round, Masoud Ghasemi, achieved the first prize and followed respectively by his club-mate Artimes Farshad Yeganeh from "Tarbiat Modares" University"s club and Mahmoud Hasan-Zadeh from the host club. Also, "Tarbiat Modares", "Hemmat Shemiran" and "Ghianouri" clubs were known as three top teams of this round."
Three rounds are remained from the 2nd climbing league of Tehran, where "Tarbiat Modares", "Davoudi" and "Ghianouri" clubs still have more chance of winning than the others.


IMZ News Department
January 2, 2010


Iranians set out toward France for Ecrins 2010

A team of seven climbers on behalf of Alpine Club of Iran left Iran toward France this morning to participate in the 20th Ecrins Ice Climbing Festival.
ACI’s public affairs manager told IMZ News: "Iranian climbers were used to participate in this festival since January 2008. Like last two years, ACI’s representatives are going to attend this sportive meeting from January 8th to 10th in "Ecrins" National Park in SE of France. Abbas Mohammadi, Abbas Sabetian, Farnoush Raeisi from ACI’s Board of Directors beside Mohammad Sabouri, Afshin Yousefi, Mostafa Shekarabi and Mohammad Hajabolfath are members of this team."
"Besides, ACI has organized an ice climbing training course, which will be held from January 2nd to 6th under the supervision of two mountain guides from French "GHM". Also, a basic instruction will be given on the subject of search and rescue," said Abbas Sabetian.
To finish this conversation, we asked him about the standards on which this team has been gathered.
Abbas told: "After the public announcement done on 22nd of October, a pile of climbers have been registered. In order to take advantage of ACI’s 3-years reputation in cultural department of France embassy of Tehran, trip official regularities were left to them. On the other side, the cultural department has held a French language course on the theme of "alpinism" since one and a half year ago. Therefore they push those regularities just for those who had attended the course. So the only selection was Mohammad Sabouri due to his experience in Ice Climbing."
It’s worth noting that, abbas Sabetian along with Abbas Mohammadi will have a few working visits with their counterparts at "GHM" and Alpine Club of France during this trip, which is partly sponsored by the cultural department of France embassy in Tehran.


IMZ News Department
December 29, 2009


"Hamaloon" ice climbing school hesitantly opened

Ice climbing school of "Hamaloon" valley in Middle Alborz opened for the coming cold season from this morning, although last night’s shower made it to some extent unsafe.
"Despite a few ascents during the opening ceremony, the wall does not look steady enough yet. Pouring water has weakened the junctions between icicles and behind rocks so that would be better if enthusiastic climbers wait a weak further for more safety, " said a member of school’s executive board, Eshagh Salar-Kia.
He added: "School is open from 8:30 to 15:30 every day almost until late March and it is assumed to charge everyone with 50,000 Rials for each day. Also, a limited amount of gears is available for rent."
It is worth noting that, climbers should use school’s instructors unless they are experienced enough.


IMZ News Department
December 24, 2009


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