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Khodayar Maleki won Iran’s first Quadrathlon

Khodayar Maleki won Iran’s first Quadrathlon in middle Alborz range on Friday, June 18th, whose time was 2 hours and 2 minutes and 49 seconds.
"At the end of registration time, 62 people has been indexed but just 15 athletes were approved to attend the race on June 18th, where Afshin Ramezani from Karaj finished second and followed by Masoud Zeynali from Tehran," told contest’s organizer, Ali-Reza Amzajerdian.


IMZ News Department
June 20, 2010


Arak expedition losing the chance for Trango tower in this summer

Almost last year, a news hit Iran’s alpinism society that a team of big wall climbers from Arak city were going to prepare themselves for an attempt on the Nameless tower in "Trango" valley of Karakoram region, Pakistan in summer 2010.
Pakistan 2010 expeditions has started to reach Karakorum’s base camps since a few days ago, thus IMZ News Department called exp. Leader, Mahmoud Ra’oufi to ask for the situation. He said: "we have been to get MFI’s endorsement for this expedition since last year but there is no explicit response yet and we are losing the chance hour by hour for this summer."
Despite these point outs, the MFI’s representative, Reza Zarei, who is the head of federation’s mountaineering committee at the same time, believes that members of this expedition are not experienced enough for such an activity yet and they need to increase their experience on lower leveled big walls around the world.


IMZ News Department
June 17, 2010


Azim Gheychi-Saz heading for Nanga-Parbat

Azim on Everest summit Just 50 days after getting back from Dhaulagiri summit with Iran’s national expedition, Azim Gheychi-Saz will leave Iran on June 19th heading for Nanga-Parbat (8125m) in Pakistan.
Azim said to IMZ News: "The expedition includes 5 south Korean mountaineers beside 2 Nepalese and me from Iran aiming to climb "Kinshofer" route on Nanga’s "Diamir" face. I know one of the Nepalese members of the expedition since 2005, when we were on Mt. Everest with Iran’s national expedition. He is to summit his 12th 8000ers."
"I have paid all expedition costs by myself and Iran’s mountaineering Federation just regulated a few necessary official affairs", Azim added.
Born in 1981 in Tabriz, Azim has Everest (2005), Dhaulagiri (2010) and Broad Peak (2008) beside Nowshak (2006), Pobeda (2009), Marble-Wall (2002) and Spantik (2004) in his bag. He was also one of the members of Iran’s National G1 expedition in 2003, which abandoned due to a disastrous avalanche.


IMZ News Department
June 17, 2010


Tehran’s 2010 men and women expeditions were arranged

Nun peak Holding 8 selection camps during last 5 months, members of men and women expeditions of Tehran province were finally announced by MSCCT.
"Himalaya committee of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran picked up 7 men and 6 women after a long selection process among 40 male and 20 female members of various mountaineering clubs of Tehran to arrange two independent expeditions for an attempt on Mt. Nun (7135m), the highest peak in the Indian side of Himalayan range this summer. Both expeditions are supposed to climb the East Ridge, which needs approximately 1000 m fixed line. Thus men’s expedition will be the pioneer for the sake of more safety and also to provide female’s expedition with an independent attempt," told head of MSCCT, Kaveh Kashefi.
He added: "It has just remained to choose leaders of these two expeditions, which will be done as soon as possible."
History of Iranian mountaineers’ attempt in the Indian side of Himalaya, goes back to 1990, when the famous Iranian alpinist, Mohammad Davoudi get to the summit of White Needle(6600m) and Kun(7077) along with an international expedition.
Members of 2010 Tehran’s expeditions are as follows:
Men: Mohammad Daneshmandi, Kamran Kesht-Kar, Vahid Tahouri, Nader Ghasemi, Mohsen Mullah-Jan, Mohammad-Reza Rezaei(reserve), Mohammad Jolo-Khani(reserve).
Women: Roya Riazi, Masoumeh Savarani, Bayan Fazeli, Masoumeh Nazar-Zadeh, Fereshteh Khademi-Talab(reserve), Masoumeh Faryar(reserve).


IMZ News Department
June 16, 2010


The 89th meeting of Alpine Club of Iran

The 89th public gathering of Alpine Club of Iran will be on Wednesday, June 16th in "Daneshjou" culture hall of Tehran.
According to ACI’s official website, after brief news given by Abbas Sabetian about mountaineering all over the world, Yousef Souri-Nia, a well-known caver from Kermanshah province will explain about a plan aiming to remove junks left by several expeditions in Iran’s deepest cave, "Paro" during the recent years. Then the meeting goes on by a short description about the rules of 4th biennial of mountain logs and finally, Iranian famous alpinist, Mohammad-Hasan Najarian is going to report Iranian workers’ expedition to BroadPeak in 2008, which has been also gathered in a book by him, as the expedition’s leader.


IMZ News Department
June 15, 2010


Iran’s first Quadrathlon in middle Alborz range

Iran’s first Quadrathlon contest consists of mountain biking, trekking, rock climbing and crossing river is going to be held in "Lavasanat" region, middle Alborz range on June 18th.
"The contest starts with a 1300m running through the "Afjeh" village. Getting outside of village the athletes will ride on their mountain bikes to pedal 2750m toward a high flat called "Carrot flat". This part will climb 500m in elevation. Bikers then turn to trekking to challenge the longest portion, which has about 8050m length and gains 600 m altitude on the slopes of Mt. Rizan(3500m). In the way down, the contest becomes more technical, where attendees have to climb a cliff and then rappel down the other side to race back toward the finish/start line through a 4400 m track crossing a river," told head of organizer team, Ali-Reza Amzajerdian.
To take part in this race, one should be as old as 18 years old to 48 and also should know primary skills of trekking and rock climbing.


IMZ News Department
June 13, 2010


End results of Tehran climbing championship in memorial of Saeid Taheri

Men's Lead Tehran climbing championship to respect last February’s avalanche victim Saeid Taheri, was held in men and women categories from June 9th to 11th hosted by "Resalat" gym.
"Women’s lead started on June 9th with 27 climbers, who were qualified on a 5.11a route. The competition finalized on another route with 8 climbers pushing their efforts to top 5.12b. On the second day, competitions went on in men’s lead qualification with as many as 35 climbers trying to touch higher holds of a 5.12a route and being one of the eight finalists. The final route was a 5.12d one," said head of sport climbing committee at MSCCT, Mahmoud Iravani.
The last competitions were held in bouldering, where 25 female and 32 male climbers had participated. Also beside adults’ comps, an opportunity had been supposed for youth category, which was held between just two male attendees.
Take a look at the end results in the following table.

Final Results
Rank
Women’s Lead
Women’s Bouldering
Men’s Lead
Men’s Bouldering
Youth
1
Nasrin Abdolrahimi
Nasrin Abdolrahimi
Mohjtaba Khodaei
Masoud Ghasemi
Amin Ketabi
2
Maryam Ali-Khani
Zahra Rezaei
Masoud Ghasemi
Mojtaba Khodaei
Ardeshir Sasan-Far
3
Mahsa Hokam-Zadeh
Fatemeh Rajab-Ali
Artimes Farshad-Yeaganeh
Husain Sadeghi

IMZ News Department
June 13, 2010

Leila Esfandyari preparing to climb K2

Leila Esfandyari The Iranian famous female alpinist, Leila Esfandyari will leave Iran toward Pakistan on Monday, July 7th for an attempt on K2 (8611m).
"Getting back home from Nanga-Parbat summit in 2008, I pointed out Leila-peak and Annapurna as my 2009 and 2010 destinations but I lost the chances due to a few problems. Now I am heading to Karakoram with K2 in my mind, which took me a long time to think of. I will climb "Abruzzi" ridge on SE side of the mountain along with a high altitude porter," Leila Esfandyari said.


IMZ News Department
June 3, 2010


MSCFI called for the 11th national climbing championship

The 11th national climbing championship has been planned for July, 2010 in either of men and women categories each in 4 age groups.
According to Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation of Iran (MSCFI), men’s bouldering and lead will be carried out from July 4th to 9th in Polour climbing gym. Then speed climbers will compete in Davoudi climbing gym of Tehran respectively on July 15th and 16th and the end competitions will be held on July 18th to 23rd in women’s bouldering and lead category.
The results in Youth A, B and junior age groups will conclude selection for Iran’s national team for Asian youth climbing championship, 2010, which is supposed to be held in Iran. Invitations have been sent to 32 climbing councils all over the country with the limit of three climbers per age group in bouldering, lead and speed.


IMZ News Department
June 1, 2010


Four new caves discovered in Luristan, a water cave indexed

Exploration in western Iran in 2009

Four new caves including a water cave were discovered in Luristan province after exploring for five days by a joint Iranian-polish expedition.
"The second portion of this expedition was carried out between May 23rd and 27th in Luristan province, where searchers explored three pre-determined zone around Zagros range for underground shafts and finally discovered four new caves. It is interesting that a water cave, which needs some sort of diving, has been also indexed. All maps are on the desk now and hopefully will be released by Mountaineering Federation as soon as possible," told MFI’s caving committee member, Roshan Amin-Nia.
Ali-Reza Balaghi and Husain Boeini along with a Swedish botanist and three polish cavers were affiliated with this exploration in Luristan.


IMZ News Department
May 30, 2010


Tehrani Adult’s rock climbing competition to remember Saeid Taheri

Theran Climbing Competition

Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT) is going to hold Adult’s rock climbing competitions from June 9th to 11th to remember Saeid Taheri.
According to council’s official website, lead comps will be held on June 9th and 10th respectively in women and men categories, while bouldering is planned for the last day.
Saeid Taheri passed away in last February’s avalanche in middle Alborz, while trying to search and rescue the victims.


IMZ News Department
May 25, 2010


An Iranian-Polish caving expedition again in western Iran

Members of joint expedition in 2009

A joint expedition of Iranian and polish cavers is about discovering new cave systems in western Iran through Zagros range since May 16, 2010.
"This is the second time in last two years that a polish team comes to Iran for exploring Karst lands west of Iran around Kermanshah, Luristan and Kohgilouye provinces. From May 16th to 21st explorers hunted the north side of Mt. Shahoo, where nothing found except 3 shafts with less than 100m depth. Then they moved toward Luristan province and went on their job there for the rest of expedition till May 27th," said head of MFI’s caving committee, Amir-Husain Jaber-Ansari.
He added: "Nowadays, caving is not just penetrating underground as a recreation, but well organized expeditions including botanists, zoologists and geologist besides go there to attain more knowledge about caves. So taking this model into consideration since last year, we had started a project in caving committee to improve our training quality from scientific aspects."
The expedition members are: Marcin Kubarek, Boguslaw Wypych, Zbigniew Jan Wisniewski, Elim Johannes karistian lundberg (Swedish botanist), Ali-Reza Balaghi, Majid Eskandari, Arash Yasaman-Pour, Husain Boeini and Jalil Norouzi (Iranian botanist).


IMZ News Department
May 25, 2010


ACI’s 88th meeting with the theme of "Mountain Disasters"

The 88th monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran (ACI) with the theme of "Mountain Disasters" will be held today, May 19th from 17:00 to 20:00.
"The gathering will start with a speech by Husain Mohammadian. As a witness of the disastrous avalanche hit middle Alborz in last February, he is going to describe the happening. Afterwards ACI’s representative will explain Alpine Club’s viewpoints about that avalanche, which caused 8 causalities and set a record for recent years," manager of ACI’s public affairs, Abbas Sabetian continued, "the gathering will go on with a presentation by Miss. Sara Edalatian about her joint research with Iranian member of Friends of Yosemite Search and Rescue, Majid Sabet-Zadeh entitled as "How to Survive?" and at the end there is a free discussion on the matter."
Abbas added: "ACI has also invited members of directing board of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering Club, whose members were avalanched during a training class."
Since three month ago, ACI has called Iran’s alpinism society to send their report and point outs about the sad events happened to Iranian mountaineers all over the world, which attained less attention and only a few reports along with some comments about the avalanched hit were published.


IMZ News Department
May 19, 2010


Anna’s summit abandoned, Ehsan in the way back home

Iranian Ehsan Partovi-Nia gave up his attempt to get to summit of Annapurna after about 37 days going up and down on its north side.
According to persianclimbers.com, in his last attempt from BC, Ehsan along with an Italian climber and two Nepalese Sherpa arrived in C2 on Friday, May 14th, hoping to reach C3 on Saturday, but because of heavy snowing during the night before and high risk of avalanche in the way to C3, they all decided to no more wasting their time and left the summit for another season.
Unfortunately In the way down to BC, the Italian climber crevassed again, which caused injuries to his knees more serious than before. He was brought back to BC with an emergency rope-made basket.
According to the last news from Anna’s north side, Ehsan has begun his trek toward KTM since May 16th.


IMZ News Department
May 18, 2010


Fifth round of NPMH plan finished

The 5th round of Notification and Prevention of Mountain Hazards (NPMH) plan on the most attractive routes of Tochal massif ended on Friday, April 30th.
"Being managed by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT), NPMH started on December 11, 2009 composed of 110 well-trained employees, who were picked up from 9 mountaineering clubs of Tehran to teach enthusiastic people principles of trekking and also make them aware of hazards inherent in mountains during cold seasons. Despite, two deaths were reported over the mountain, which had been occurred in abnormal routes out of NPMH’s territory," told head of MSCCT, Kaveh Kashefi.
Kashefi added: "Although NPMH’s execution time has been passed base on the contradict with Tehran Disaster Mitigation and Management Organization, but a few of our employees accepted to voluntarily keep working just over "Darband" route due to recent snow showers on Tochal’s main summit."


IMZ News Department
May 12, 2010


Ehsan Partovi-Nia still insists on summit push

Ehsan Partovi-Nia individually arrived in C2 on Annapurna’s north route at 15:00(local time) on Saturday, May 8th.
"Reaching C2, I had to dig my tent out of approximately 80 cm of fresh snow. The weather is unstable and also there is high avalanche risk in the way to C3, so that I am going to stay tonight here aiming just to find and check the fixed line toward C3 tomorrow. My Italian friend had a little pain in his knees because of an accident on Wednesday, when we were back from C1, therefore he stayed in BC hoping to be improved very soon and sent his high altitude porter with necessary stuffs toward C2. The porter arrived C2 at around 18:30," Ehsan told to his contact last evening.
Also according to the report, there is another expedition composed of Japanese climbers on Anna’s north side. After a few attempts to reach C3 during past few days, they have left the BC toward Pokhara for better acclimatization.


IMZ News Department
May 9, 2010


Two test to be qualified for two level-3 courses

Iran’s mountaineering federation and Tehran’s mountaineering council are going to hold two entrance tests for the trainees as a qualification for being a level-3 instructor.
According to MFI’s official website, an entrance test for those men and women, who have passed their novitiate in each of rock climbing, trekking and snow and ice courses will be held on May 21st and 22nd somewhere on Mt. Tochal.
The second test, which will be carried out on 25th of May by Tehran’s council of mountaineering is considered for those, who have passed elementary course of snow and ice and interest in becoming level-3 snow and ice instructor. This will be held for on snow fields of "Hasan-Dar" valley in "Roudbar-e-Ghasran" region.


IMZ News Department
May 8, 2010


Call for the 4th biennial of mountaineering accounts

Alpine Club of Iran (ACI) is going to hold the 4th biennial of mountain logs and films on October, 2010.
According to ACI’s official website, this event is supposed to be held in two categories of "written accounts" and "films", where the jury members also intends to choose 3 most technical ascents of two recent years based on the accounts.
The organizer team at ACI has invited all interested ones all over the world to send their films or written accounts to the festival’s secretariat at: P.O Box 19395-5511, Apt. 12, No 590, close to Lalehzar ave., Enqelab st., Tehran.


IMZ News Department
May 6, 2010


"We should take advantage of university alpine clubs," Kaveh Kashefi said

Leaders of Tehran based universities alpine clubs are invited for a bilateral meeting with Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT) on Wednesday, May 5th.
"University alpine clubs of Tehran province are full of talented young people, who could definitely be useful in various fields of alpinism and sport climbing, but just up to their graduation. After graduation most of them quit regular mountaineering and sport climbing, because they know nothing of various clubs under supervision of MSCCT throughout Tehran province, which they could join for the rest of their lifetime. This is the main reason pushed us to think of this inefficiency and invite them for a true cooperation," head of MSCCT, Kaveh Kashefi told IMZ News.
There are 7 public universities and several colleges in Tehran, and almost each of them has an alpine club or a small group for outdoor recreations.


IMZ News Department
May 5, 2010


IMZ online shop has commenced operation

In order to facilitate offering widely used products subject to various mountaineering fields, Iran Mountain Zone has developed its online shop.
IMZ online shop came up on the web on the occasion of International Day of Mountains in December 2009, though online payment got possible since recent month. Publications about mountaineering and wilderness exploration and maps of various mountainous regions throughout Iran are available at Shop.mountainzone.ir.
The payment solution covers Iranian and international credit cards as well as PayPal gateway. Also shipping service of IMZ online shop covers all around the globe.


IMZ News Department
May 2, 2010


Ski touring trip was held to respect Farshad

Attendees to ski touring trip in Hesar-Chal The seven-day ski touring trip around "Heasar-Chal" valley, western Alborz in memorial of late Farshad Khalili finished on Wednesday, April 28th.
Skiing down the valley, Lashgarak in the back Twelve alpinists including Reza Tahmasbi, Husain Panahi-Nikou, Sirous Jafari, Majid Doroudgar, Beytollah Siraei, Seyed Ahmad Ashtiani, Behzad Sami, Afshin Ramezani, Kamyar Davallou, Shahram Rad, Amir Nard-Afkan and Reza Golbaz set off toward "Hesar-Chal" valley, south side of Takht-e-Solaiman region on 22nd of April, but the attendees decreased to 8 a few days later due to an injury happened for one of them. However during 7 days, they could do ski touring on "Lashgarak" and "Marji-Kesh" peaks, while Mohammad Haj-Abolfath and Husain Kalhor also joined them in last two days.
Meanwhile a banner was setup in "Roudbarak" shelter to preserve memory of Farshad, who died of an avalanche hit in middle Alborz last February.


IMZ News Department
May 1, 2010


Dhaula’s summit pic, Ehsan waits for another joint summit push

Iran's national expedition on Dhaulagiri (8167m) Coming down to BC on Wednesday, April 28th, a photo dispatched and confirmed Iranians’ first summit on Dhaulagiri.
According to MFI’s official website, Iran’s national expedition has left Dhaual’s BC toward KTM yesterday, April 30th.
It is worth saying, Mt. Dhaulagiri is the seventh 8000ers topped out by Iran’s national expedition and also the 11th one done by Iranian mountaineers.
Ehsan Partovi-Nia has been checked up by an Italian doctor after returning Annapurna ’s north BC and now he is waiting for one of the members of Italian expedition to join for summit push in a few coming days. After those close calls last week, individual attempt seems unsafe later on.
Also Iranian Mera Peak and Island Peak summiteers have arrived in KTM on April 28th after a trek to Everest BC.


IMZ News Department
May 1, 2010


Iranian Dhaulagiri summiteers back in BC

Members of Iran’s national expedition who got to the summit of Dhaulagiri via NE ridge on Monday, April 26th returned back to BC last morning, April 28th. They will soon leave the mountain.
After unsuccessful attempts in 2006 and 2009, this was the third Iranian attempt on Mt. Dhaulagiri and also a tribute to Mehdi Etemad-Far, who missed somewhere around 8000m last spring. Despite, number of summiteers and their names has not been reported yet.


IMZ News Department
April 29, 2010


A course about fundamentals of Mountain Environment

Mountain Environment Course Mountain Environment Protection society along with graduate faculty of environment at university of Tehran and FAO is going to hold a course about fundamentals of mountain environment in late May.
They organizers are going to give speeches on a few titles such as: mountain’s weather, mountains erosion and deterioration, cover crops and their impacts on soil protection and water resources, mountain hazards and tourism.
This course is planned to be carried out in 10 sessions, each of 3 hours length.


IMZ News Department
April 28, 2010


Summits on Dhaulagiri, climbers in the way back down

In the 50th anniversary of Dhaula’s first ascent by a Swiss/Austrian expedition, Iran’s national expedition topped out Dhaulagiri early this morning, April 26th.
According to MFI’s official website, they set C3 yesterday at 7250m and were the first summiteers of the mountain this season. The exact number of summiteers is unknown yet.


IMZ News Department
April 26, 2010


Iranian summits on Island peak

Ascending Island Peak on Friday 23rd, Iranian "Kaveh" expedition attained their second 6000ers summit in Himalaya this spring.
Keyvan Khoshkou, Karim Nad-Alian, Ali Ali-Mohammadi, Ali Taheri and Ropen Sarkisian are now on a trek toward Everest BC.


IMZ News Department
April 24, 2010


Three alarms while getting to C3, Ehsan returned to BC

After two venturesome attempts to reach C3 on Annapurna’s north side, Ehsan partovi-Nia returned back to BC on Fridays’ night, April 23rd.
His contact in Iran, Amir Moghimi said: "Ehsan left C2 alone toward C3 on Thursday, while the upper portions of the mountain were accumulated with considerable amount of fresh snow. Suddenly a Serac broken above caused a big avalanche nearby, while he had stopped for a short rest midway. Afterwards, he decided to descend. In the way down to C2 while he was filming, Ehsan checks the second danger by getting trapped in a crevasse."
The next day, he took the trail to C3 along with South Korean, Miss Oh Eun-Sun and her escorts. They were going up in a couloir that an avalanche came down and sent him a few hundred meters below.
"By fortune, these three events didn"t cause serious injuries to him, except a little contusion and now he is resting in BC," Amir Told.


IMZ News Department
April 24, 2010


Iranian mountaineers topped out Mera-Peak

Keyvan Khoshkhou, Ali Ali-Mohammadi, Ali Taheri, Karim Nad-Alian and Ropen Sarkisian topped out Mera-Peak on Friday, April 16th.
Afterwards they set out toward Island Peak, which is also a 6000ers via "Amphulaptsa" Cole.


IMZ News Department
April 22, 2010


Ehsan looking forward an opportunity for a summit push

After 5 days of relaxation in BC, Ehsan Partovi-Nia reached Anna’s C2 alone on Tuesday, April 20th aiming to push the summit in the coming days.
"Except for a few hours spent to change 100 meters of fixed ropes above C2, the remaining hours of Wednesday wasted in C2 due to heavy snowing. However, if there is an improvement in weather condition, I will head up to C3 early tomorrow," Ehsan told his contact yesterday.


IMZ News Department
April 22, 2010


Gathering of mountaineering instructors and veterans of Tehran

Mountaineering Instructors' Gathering Tehran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council (TMSCC) will bring veterans and instructors of various fields together on Saturday, April 25th.
In the opening of this meeting, veteran’s committee of TMSCC will be introduced. Afterwards, instructors’ performance in each field will be presented, which will be followed by a tribute to Farshad Khalili. The last item is set apart for a description about the importance of TMSCC’s circulars and training courses.


IMZ News Department
April 21, 2010


"Koreans or Catalonians?", Ehsan thinks to join on a shot to the summit

Ehsan Partovi-Nia should choose one of Korean or Catalonian teams to join for for non-individual summit push in few coming days in few coming days.
"Descending from C3, Ehsan has arrived BC on 16:00 local time on Tuesday, April 13th for a few days of rest before summit push. During last two days, he had two invitations from Catalonian and Korean teams to join for the summit push together. He has postponed his final decision to the time Koreans come back from acclimatization process in C2," his friend, Amir Moghimi told.
According to weather forecasts, bad weather is so probable for Annapurna region from tomorrow on for 4 days.


IMZ News Department
April 17, 2010


Ski touring in Takht-e-Solaiman; a tribute to Farshad

Ski touring in memorial of Farshad Khalili An eight-day ski mountaineering program will begin on 21st of April in memorial of Farshad Khalili in "Takht-e-Solaiman" region, west Alborz.
This program is organized by a few of his apprentices along with Tehran’s mountaineering council and those who want to take part should have previous ski touring experiences in the altitude. They will do ski touring at 4000m altitude around "Heasar-Chal" valley in southern side of Takht-e-Solaiman region.
Farshad Khalili was one of the pioneers of ski mountaineering in Iran, who died of avalanche hit in middle Alborz last February. He was also the head of ski mountaineering committee in Iran’s mountaineering federation.


IMZ News Department
April 17, 2010


Annapurna; Ehsan set C3 a bit lower than usual point

Having gone by just four days since his arrival in BC, Ehsan Partovi-Nia set up his third camp a few meters lower than the usual C3 on Anna’s northern side.
"It is bout 16:00 local time, the wind has slowed down and I am now at the beginning of a huge Serac approximately 10 meters lower than usual C3," Ehsan told on his sat-phone yesterday, "it is late and I’m tired enough to prefer crawling in my tent rather than heading up alone."
After staying one night in C3, Ehsan started his way back to BC this morning.
At the same time, Iran’s national expedition has gone up toward C3 on Dhaulagiri ’s normal route on April 12th, touched 7250 m and turned downward.


IMZ News Department
April 13, 2010


C2 set on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, climbers heading for C3

Attempting for the second time to reach C2 during past few days, Iran’s national expedition eventually set their tents around 6800 m on Sunday, April 11th.
"If the weather helps us, we will go up in direction of C3 tomorrow," exp. leader told his contact in MFI yesterday.
On north side of Annapurna, Ehsan Partovi-Nia seems in a hurry for summit. "He left BC on Saturday and spent last night in C2," his contact in Iran, Amir Moghimi told IMZ, "if everything goes right, Ehsan will try to reach C3 today."


IMZ News Department
April 12, 2010


Fatemeh Aziz-Khani released from Hospital

The female member of "Spilat" mountaineering club of Tehran, Fatemeh Aziz-Khani whose spinal cord had been injured seriously after a fall on Sar-Tagh wall, got released from Hospital on April 9th after a surgery operation.
Despite, she is still suffering from motional and sensational problems in her legs and undergoing a rehabilitation program.
According to official website of "Spilat" club, it was the first sad event that has been occurred since its establishment in 2006.


IMZ News Department
April 11, 2010


Araki climbers headed for two 6000ers around Khumbu

Araki climbers leaving Iran Helping a Nepalese orphanage, Araki Keyvan Khoshkhou, Karim Nad-Alian, Ali Taheri and Ali Ali-Mohammadi along with Ropen Sarkisian airlifted to lukla on April 11th for an attempt on Mera Peak and Iceland Peak.
"Tibetan government just denies permitting Iranian and Indian to pass the border, so that we gave up thinking anymore for Cho-Oyu this spring and decided to ascent two 6000ers instead. We needed lesser amount of food stuffs that had been prepared for Cho-Oyu expedition and transported to KTM before our arrival. Therefore we dedicated the extra amount to an orphanage in KTM," Keyvan Said.
According to Keyvan, Hamid-Reza Dehghan, who was not permitted to pass Tibetan border headed back to Iran after his trek to Everest’s BC.


IMZ News Department
April 11, 2010


C2 push called off on Dhaulagiri, Ehsan Partovi-Nia arrived Anna’s BC

Six days after leaving KTM, Ehsan Partovi-Nia arrived in base camp of Annapurna’s northern side on Thursday, April 8 at 14:00 local time. He is now waiting for proper weather conditions.
Also, C2 push on Dhaulagiri’s NE side called off due to bad weather arriving on Tuesday, April 6th.
"Going out their tents in C1, ten members of our expedition were divided into two equal groups and took the trail up, but due to smells of bad weather coming, they left their stuffs somewhere around 6550 m and returned to BC," expedition leader, told his contact in Iran’s Mountaineering Federation.


IMZ News Department
April 10, 2010


News from Iranian expeditions on the sides of "Mustang" valley

Brief sketch Mustang valley Members of Iran’s national expedition left Dhaula’s base camp this morning aiming to set C2 on NE ridge.
"Now (Monday’s evening), Iranian alpinists are in C1 and planning to reach C2 in next few days. It seems that we are the first expedition heading for C2 this spring," the leader, Mahmoud Shoaaei has said to his contact at Iran’s Mountaineering Federation.
Also Ehsan Partovi-Nia has started his trekking toward Anna’s BC on the east side of "Mustang" valley, after two days travelling by a jeep. He hopes to arrive there in next 6 days.


IMZ News Department
April 5, 2010


C1 set on Dhaulagiri, Ehsan Partovi-Nia in the way to Anna’s BC

Members of Iran’s national expedition to Dhaulagiri set up C1 on NE ridge on Friday, April 2nd, meanwhile Ehsan Partovi-Nia has left KTM toward Anna’s BC.
According to MFI’s official website, they have touched 6000 m before setting up their camp for better acclimatization. Now they are waiting out bad weather in BC.
Also Ehsan’s friend said to IMZ News:"Arriving KTM at Thursday’s night, Ehsan Partovi-Nia spent whole Friday preparing his expedition. He moved toward Annapurna’s BC along with porters this morning."


IMZ News Department
April 3, 2010


Ehsan Partovi-Nia headed for Annapurna

Ehsan Partovi-Nia The well-known Iranian alpinist, Ehsan Partovi-Nia left Tehran toward KTM on April 1st for an attempt on Mt. Annapurna.
On a call to IMZ News, He said: "I didn’t manage to get involved in any international expedition, so that I should organize everything individually."
Born in 1979, Ehsan is one of the five Iranian Nanga-Parbat summiteers, who managed to do it in 2008, for the first time in Iran’s mountaineering history.


IMZ News Department
April 1, 2010


A female climber fell from Sar-Tagh wall in Kermanshah

A female climber seriously injured after a fall from "Sar-Tagh" wall in climbing resort of "Tagh-Bostan", north of Kermanshah city on Friday, March 26th.
Fatemeh Azizi-Khani was trying to solo climb the first pitch of "Ghadimi-Ha" route, when suddenly her hand hold broke. This event left a serious spinal cord injury and a broken leg for her.


IMZ News Department
March 31, 2010


Iranian alpinists confused by Tibetan border condition

Iranian alpinists, who had planned to climb Cho-Oyu this spring, got affected by policies in Tibet-Nepal border as it has been common during few recent years for expedition going for Tibetan side of the 8000ers.
"Along with Ali Ali-Mohammadi, Ali Taheri, Karim Nad-Alian and Ropen Sarkisian, we were to leave Iran toward KTM on April 7th for an attempt on Mt. Cho-Oyu, but border closure between Tibet and Nepal entrapped us in a confusing situation. Mind that we have already sent our luggage to KTM," said Keyvan Khoshkhou.
Also Hamid-Reza Dehghan, who has left Tehran on March 22nd toward KTM with the aim to climb Cho-Oyu after a trekking toward Everest BC, has the same problem. His trekking will be finished on April 4th, but it is currently unclear when Tibetan border may reopen.


IMZ News Department
March 30, 2010


Iran’s expedition settled down in Dhaula’s BC

All 13 members of Iran’s national expedition along with high altitude porters arrived in base camp of Dhaula’s NE ridge on Friday, March 26th.
According to MFI’s official website, they will leave BC toward higher camps after proper acclimatization.


IMZ News Department
March 27, 2010


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