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The 92nd monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran

The 92nd monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will be held on Wednesday, September 22nd from 17:00 to 20:00 at Shahriyaran-e-Javan Hall in Tehran.
At the beginning of the meeting, Yousef S.Nia, the head of caving committee in mountaineering council of Tehran, is going to talk about waste collection program in "Paro" cave, near Kermanshah. Then Parvaneh Kazemi will present the story of her summit on Mustagh-Ata along with two other members of Spilat mountaineering club of Tehran, last August.
The closure of the meeting is a speech by Kaveh Eshkeshi, the secretary of 4th biennial of mountain accounts, which has been planned for the coming October.


IMZ News Department
September 21, 2010


19th Asian Climbing Championship: Final results of lead comps

Iranian Elnaz Rekabi and her brother Davoud Rekabi placed among the top 10 leaders of 19th Asian Climbing Championship separately among women and men climbers.
According to IFSC, men’s lead started with 34 climbers with 11 different nationalities on two qualifiers. The competition went on with 20 climbers vying in semi-final round and finished with 9 climbers in final stage. At the end of this 3-round competition, Davoud Rekabi, Q.ali B.Zadeh, Sobhan Jafari and a.Hamzeh P.Shafi from Iran placed respectively as 9th, 13th, 19th and 24th leaders, where Two Korean climbers topped the table and followed by a Japanese climber as the third champion.
Like women’s bouldering, Elnaz Rekabi was the only Iranian delegate among 22 women leaders from 10 Asian countries. She placed 7th at the final round, where again Korean and Japanese climbers reaped the first three prizes.


IMZ News Department
September 20, 2010


19th Asian Climbing Championship: Final results of bouldering comps

Iranian Qolam-Ali Barat-Zadeh won the fifth prize of men’s bouldering competition among 32 climbers from 12 nationalities in 19th Asian Climbing Championship.
According to IFSC, bouldering competition was held in three rounds for both men and women categories. Among Iranian men entrants, just Q.ali competed in final round and took the 5th place, while Sobhan Jafari and A.Hamzeh P.Shafi, the other Iranian climbers eliminated at the end of qualification round and placed 22nd and 26th.
In women’s bouldering, Elnaz Rekabi was the only Iranian competitor among 23 female entrants from 9 Asian countries. She took the 9th place after two rounds, whereas Korean and Japanese climbers topped women’s ranking like men’s category.


IMZ News Department
September 20, 2010


19th Asian Climbing Championship: Final results of speed comps

speed climbing podium Omid Sh.Bahaei and Mohsen M.Nejad known as the 2nd and 3rd winners in final ranking of men’s speed competition in 19th Asian Climbing Championship that was hold from Sep. 16th to 19th in China.
According to the official website of IFSC, men’s speed competition saw 26 climbers from 8 Asian countries, where Kazakh Alexandr Nigmatulin won the first prize after 6 rounds. Reza P.Moqadam, H.Reza T.Jani, Sobhan Jafari and Q.Ali B.Zadeh were four Iranian entrants other than Omid and Mohammad, who took 9th, 13th, 22nd and 25th places in speed’s final ranking.
Also in women’s speed, Sadjadeh S.Nejad, Azam Karami, Farnaz E.Zadeh and Elnaz Rekabi were the Iranian competitors, who were placed 8th, 10th, 14th and 17th in final ranking. Chinese climbers reaped all medals in this category after four rounds.
Mixed Team relay was the other style of competition in speed category, where one man climber along with a woman climber with same nationality teamed up on a speed climbing route. At the end of mixed team relay, T.Jani along with Karami and M.Nejad with his team-mate, S.Nejad respectively took the 4th and 7th places among 10 teams.


IMZ News Department
September 18, 2010


Ramadan climbing cup: Results of the 2nd competition

Lead Competition The 2nd competition of "Ramadan" climbing cup among Tehran’s women climbers was held on Thursday, September 16th at "Taheri" gym in Tehran.
"The competition began at 1:00 p.m. with 18 climbers attempting on 4 boulders between 5.10bc and 5.12a, where Somaz Eshqi topped the podium. She followed by Sara Manafi and her sister, Nasim Eshqi like the 1st comp. Afterwards, competition continued in lead category with a route set as difficult as 5.11b. Nasim Eshqi managed a top out and took the first place, where Mahsa H.Zadeh and Masoume R.Ali respectively placed second and third in lead’s final ranking," said competition manager, Nasrin A.Rahimi.
There were four competitors with less than 20 years old in the second competition. So that they were sorted out separately according to the total point they had attain in bouldering and lead. Setare shakiba, Farnaz D.Pour and ghazaleh S.Manesh were the top climbers in this category.


IMZ News Department
September 18, 2010


Pedram’s dead body recovered from "Paro" cave

A recovery effort to extract pedram Bouchani’s body from "Paro" cave has been resumed by a pile of Kermanshah cavers since Friday morning, September 17th and it is close to the end.
"Three teams have endeavored one after another since yesterday morning at 8:30 to extract the dead body from the cave. The first team comprised of 6 skillful cavers went down to the 8th pit, where the accident had happened on September 12th. They hauled the corpse up to the 5th pit. Then the second group again with 6 members replaced up to the 1st pit, where the third group was ready to carry the dead body to the bottom of Mt. Paro. Now, the last attempts are done to carry the body down the mountain," said member of Kermanshah mountaineering council, A.Akbar M.Nejad.


IMZ News Department
September 18, 2010


A speed ascent of Mt. Sabalan via three different routes

Sabalan Summit Shahriyar Y.Far, Babak Qorbanian and Saman Nezami all from east Azerbaijan province summited Mt. Sabalan (4811 m) via three different routes only in 11 hours and a half on August 13, 2010.
"We started at 4:00 a.m. on August 13th from NE shelter at 3750 m, where we had arrived in the previous evening. The NE ridge was the first alternative to get rise to the top. It took just 2 hours and a half. Then we headed down toward the west Cole. From a place known as "Qartal-Dashi" saddle at around 4000 m, we turned back. After 1 hour and a half we were all on the top of Mt. Sabalan for the second time that day," continued Shahriyar, "the north flank, which is extended on the east edge of Sabalan’s terrific northern glacier was the last route. Luckily, it was not that much icy so we could reach the bottom of glacier at 3900 m very soon. Exactly 12 O’clock it was, when we took the trail toward the third highest summit of the country on the northern flank."
Shariyar, Babak and Saman bagged their third summit of Mt. Sabalan in a day at 13:30 and entered the NE shelter at 15:30 on August 13th. They are the first mountaineers in Iran"s mountaineering history to put such a considerable record on Mt. Sabalan.
The speed ascent history in Iran goes back to more than a decade before, when the late Jalal Forouzan along with his friends were going up and down on Mt. Damavand (5671 m), the highest summit in the country via three, four and sometimes even five routes in approximately 24 hours.
Mt. Sabalan is a volcanic summit in the NW side of Iran, near Ardebil province and assumed as one the most attractive spots for mountaineering over the country.


IMZ News Department
September 16, 2010


More cavers are needed for evacuation operation in "Paro"

The 5-member team, which had gone to verify the situation after the fatal accident in "Paro" cave, fixed the dead body of Pedram Bouchani in a basket and returned to Kermanshah this morning to gather more cavers for evacuation operation.
A.Akbar m.Nejad, the leader of evacuation team told IMZ New: "The accident happened because of rope failure, when 26-year old pedram started abseiling the 8th pit with 39 meters depth. I’m really astonished about the decision made up to rappel on such an old abandoned rope?"
"They were 6 cavers from "Kalahoo" city in Kermanshah province; Pedram along with his brother, his mother and his father and two other friends. The group entered the cave on Saturday, Sep. 11th. The event happened on the second day and soon after, survivors ascent out the cave and called us for help. We reached the accident location in Monday’s evening, wrapped the dead body in a basket and prepared the anchors outward the cave," Morad Nejad added, "Now we are just waiting for more experienced cavers to join us. We will return back to "Paro" as soon as possible."
The first team members were Mehrdad Chavoshi, Hadi Jahangard, Reza Shahlaei and Asqar Zarrin all from Kermanshah Mountaineering Council.


IMZ News Department
September 14, 2010


Iran’s team left for 2010 Asian Climbing Championship

Iran’s adults climbing team comprised of 8 men and 4 women climber left Tehran toward "Changzhi" in china on September 13th to take part in the Asian championship.
According to MSCFI’s official website, Davoud Rekabi, Sobhan Jafari, A.Hamzeh P.Shafi, Q.Ali B.Zadeh, Mohsen M.Nejad, Amir Sh.Bahaei, H.Reza T.Jani, Reza P.Moqadam are the men climbers and the women climbers are Elnaz Rekabi, Sadjadeh S.Nejad, Azam Karami and Farnaz E.Zadeh, who will attend Lead, Speed and Bouldering competitions.
The team will be coached by Mehdi Z.Kar and A.Reza Baqeri.


IMZ News Department
September 14, 2010


Fatal accidents deep in "Paro" cave and high on Mt. Damavand

A young caver and a mountaineering veteran died during past few days in two fatal accidents in the deepest cave and on the highest mountain of the country.
The first accident happened to Hasan Ekrami-Far, the almost 60-year old member of Bistoon club of Tehran, who stroke by a brain attack at around 4200 m on west side of Mt. Damavand on September 7th. Immediately he was carried down the mountain and was then taken to a hospital in Tehran. Unfortunately, after three days being in a coma, Hasan finally died on Monday, Sep. 13th.
"Ekrami-Far was one of the pioneers to construct "Simorq" hut on west side of Damavand in 1995," said the technical committee head of Bistoon club.
The second accident happened in "Paro" cave, the deepest and longest cave yet discovered in Kermanshah province, where Pedram Bouchani fell to his death in the 39-meter deep 8th pit on September 12th.
According to MSCFI’s official website, a group of experienced cavers from Kermanshah have set off toward the cave since this noon. Having been discovered in 1971 by a British expedition, "Paro" is a karst cave with 27 pits and supposed as the most challenging caving experience over the country.


IMZ News Department
September 13, 2010


Consultation meeting about men’s climbing league in Tehran

Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Council of Tehran invited sport climbing specialists over the province to a consultation meeting on September 20th eith the theme of men’s climbing league in Tehran.
"Actually some sorts of indoor climbing competitions were in progress over the province last year. It had been organized by a number of enthusiasts from various climbing gyms and had been entitled as "Tehran Climbing League" too, which had its own statute and board of directors. Now, MSCCT aims to continue these competitions but in an official manner, which could be approved by Sport Organization. So all the specialists are welcomed to consultation meeting, where we are going to elect league board of directors and also to talk about the statute," told MSCCT’s chief, Kaveh Kashefi.
He added: "It is our pleasure to work with the organizers of last year’s competitions as league management board"


IMZ News Department
September 9, 2010


Mountain medicine and rescue training course

Alpine Club of Iran together with Iran’s society of Mountain Medicine are going to run a training course about mountain medicine and mountain rescue in late September.
This course is packed with 31 hours of training subjected to important medical topics based on the UIAA medical commission’s standards and also essential mountain rescue techniques. It will be co-taught by Dr. Hamid Mosaeidian and Hasan J.Pour during a 4 day outdoor camp at "Darband" valley in Mahdi-Shahr, Semnan.


IMZ News Department
September 7, 2010


Level-2 rock climbing instructor training in men’s category

Iran’s mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation is going to hold Level-2 rock climbing instructor training course for outdoor instructors from October 4th to 8th in "Pol-e-Khab" climbing resort.
After a test that was took place among 22 level-3 instructors on last July, eight men were approved to follow level-2 instructors training subjects in a period of 4 days in October, 2010. The invitees are Ehsan Jabari, Amir Sadeqi, Amir Moqimi, Hamed Keramat, Husain A.Nezhad, H.Reza Shafaqi, Majid Qasemi and Mehdi K.Khani.


IMZ News Department
September 2, 2010


"Ramadan" Climbing Cup in women’s category

A series of climbing competitions in women’s category entitled as "Ramadan Cup" has been started in Tehran since August 26th, 15th of Ramadan in lunar calendar.
"The first competition was held at "Taheri" gym in Tehran, where 20 women climbers from Tehran and Karaj cities participated in bouldering and lead categories. Lead competition was set on a facile route graded as 5.10d, where Nasim Eshqi managed a top out and took the first place. She followed by Sara Manafi and her younger sister Solmaz, who competed two times due to their equal points in the first round. Afterwards climbers’ performance checked in bouldering with 4 different routes set from 5.10a to 5.11d difficulty range. One again, the top leaders topped the ranking, but this time Solmaz and Nasim changed their places," said gym manager, Nasrin Abdol-Rahimi.
She added: "we consider "Ramadan Cup" mainly as a preparation camp for women climbers over Tehran province to increase their skills and confidence for national comps. It has includes three stages, which has been planned to be held every three weeks."


IMZ News Department
August 31, 2010


An Iranian expedition on the top of "Noshaq"

A 6-member Iranian expedition reached the summit of Mt. Noshaq (4792 m), the second highest summit over Hindu-Kush range on August 29th.
"Husain Asghari, Mohammad Rafiei, Iraj Taheri and Gholam Nodehi from Golestan province along with H.Reza Sanjari and Amin Moein respectively from Tehran and Hamedan provinces topped the highest peak of Afghanistan 17 days after arrival in BC at 4500m," reported by MSCCT’s official website.
After the summit done by Mehdi Amidi and Azim Qeychi-Saz in autumn, 2007 and an unsuccessful attempt in 2009, this is the third Iranian expedition set off to Mt. Noshaq.


IMZ News Department
August 30, 2010


MSCFI’s protest over illegal constructions in "Kara" wood

Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation of Iran requested Mayer of Tehran to prevent illegal constructions in "Kara" wood at southern foot of Tochal massif.
"Illegal constructions such as road and building projects have been speeded up at the northern massif of Tehran during few recent years. Such events do irreparable damages on mountain environment and also have negative impacts on mountaineering society. Now constructions have extended to "Kara" wood, an attractive trekking pass at "Tochal" massif. So please take the necessary steps to prevent further violations in the area a.s.a.p," Mahmoud Shoaei wrote to the mayor of Tehran, M.B. Qalibaf.


IMZ News Department
August 28, 2010


Iran’s adults climbing team selected for 2010 Asian Cup

Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation of Iran announced a list of 7 women and 8 men climbers admitted as members of national adults climbing team for 2010 Asian Cup.
Alnaz Rekabi, Farnaz E.Zadeh, Sajadeh S.Nezhad, Nadia Javandel, Azam Karami and Fatemeh Meqdadi are the women climbers, while men’s team comprises of Davoud Rekabi, Ali B.Zadeh, H.Reza T.Jani, Reza P.Moqadam, Omid Sh.Bahaei, Sobhan Jafari, Mohsen M.Nezhad, Mohsen Shafiei and A.Hamzeh P.Shafi.
These climbers have been picked up among 24 climbers after a 7 day breath taking selection camp in Zanjan, where a team of 5 instructors were checking their performance in Bouldering, Lead and Speed categories. Soon after announcement, they were called by MSCFI for a 10-day preparatory camp from August 30th, before setting off toward China.


IMZ News Department
August 25, 2010


Khorasan’s women expedition topped Mt. Lenin

passing a crevase on Mt. Lenin An expedition of women climbers from Khorasan Razavi province in NW of Iran reached to the top of Mt. Lenin (7135 m), the 2nd highest summit of the Pamirs on August 21st.
"The first summit push started on Thursday August 19th, but stopped just 200 m beneath the summit due to adverse weather condition. Climbers descent back to C3 at 6100 m and sit out bad weather. The summit attempt started once again at midnight, August 21st by five women along with the leader and his assistant. The weather did not improve and was still snowing, when they reached the summit of Mt. Lenin 13 hours later," reported by Khorasan Mountaineering Council.
The summiteers has spent last night in C3 hoping to reach BC with all their camp stuffs in a day or two.
The expedition members are Basireh H.Zadeh, Mahboubeh Baqban, Hakimeh V.Nia, Zahra Abdollahi, Zahra Arqiyani, Sara Safaeeyan, Masoume Qashqaei, Razieh Qazanfari, Zari Soleimani, Husain Amani (leader), Javad Norouzi (assistant) and Majid Mazhabi (doctor). The female climbers had been picked up after 16 preparatory and selection camps since August, 2009.


IMZ News Department
August 22, 2010


Mt. Azad-Kouh hosts an all-women attempt in mid September

Tehran women on Mt. Kahar, June 2010 Tehran’s women mountaineers have planned an all-female expedition to Mt. Azad-kouh (4390 m), the highest summit of middle Alborz range, for September 16th and 17th.
Supported by women’s department at mountaineering & Sport Climbing Council of Tehran, the first expedition set off to west Alborz range in June 2010. They were 37 women from 15 mountaineering clubs of Tehran, who celebrated 70 years of Iranian women & alpinism history on the top of Mt. Kahar (4050 m).


IMZ News Department
August 19, 2010


A novel collaboration between MSCCT and university alpine clubs

Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT) starts a novel collaboration with university alpine clubs over Tehran.
"The first meeting in May, 2010 resulted in a decision to establish a special committee in MSCCT dedicated to miscellaneous problems of university alpine clubs. It was also decided to hold an election among university candidates in the next session to direct the committee. The next meeting was supposed to take place on August 16th, but canceled due to university holidays," said MSCCT’s boss, Kaveh Kashefi.
He also added: "Sports committee of Education & Science Ministry is very much eager to resume its mountaineering department, which stopped working in 2005, because of a few sad happenings in university expeditions."


IMZ News Department
August 18, 2010


ACI’s monthly meeting to be held on August 18th

The 91st meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will be held tomorrow, August 18th from 17:00 to 20:00.
At the beginning, M.Reza Ahmadian will talk about a canyoning trip in "Tang-e-Zendan", a beautiful long valley in Zagros range. Then, the meeting goes on with another presentation about sweeping Damavand’s north route of waste materials. During a 2-day attempt, Two Tehrani clubs have collected all sorts of abandoned materials and brought them down Damavand, last week.
The meeting will end up with mountaineering news, by Abbas Sabetian.


IMZ News Department
August 16, 2010


Araki climbers topped "Crystal Fall" on "Alam-Kouh" wall

Abbas leading the ruote Abbas Mohammadi and Pezhman Zafari Abbas Mohammadi and Pezhman Zafari from "Arak" city climbed "Crsytal Fall", a 12-pitch difficult route on the east part of "Alam-Kouh" wall.
"Established in 2001 by two Italian climbers in a period of 7 days, "Crystal Fall" is a combination of fingertip cracks and vertical faces, which make it as one of the challenging routes on the wall. We started at 6:00 a.m. on August 5th. Nine pitches graded as difficult as 5.12a/A3 were climbed in a poor weather. Meanwhile, a 45-minute hailstone falling made everything wet. After the 9th pitch, the route continued on a 5-pitch snow covered slab to the summit, where last two pitches were full of rolling stones. However, we reached the top at about 1:00 a.m., August 6th and became the second Iranian rope-mates to climb the route," Abbas said on a call to IMZ News.
Prior to Araki climbers, Husain Alaei together with Mehdi Farid from Tehran had climbed the Italian route in 2007, but in siege style during a 3-day attempt.


IMZ News Department
August 15, 2010


Two women climbers ascended "Alam-Kouh" wall

Middle of Rost-Alaei route Nasim Habibi and Marzieh Karami "Arash" Mountaineers Club’s members, Nasim Habibi and Marzieh Karami climbed "Alam-Kouh" wall on July, 29th and entitled as the second all-women team ever to do the job.
"These two rope-mates managed climbing the 350-meter "Rost-Alaei" route at over 4000 meters on the eastern side of granitic "Alam-Kouh" wall. It took them 12 hours to climb the route and forced to bivouac just below the summit (4864 m)," told Club’s technical authority, Hasan Gerami.
First record of climbing on "Alam-Kouh" wall by an Iranian woman goes back to 1989, when Soheila T.Zadeh from "Arash" club achieved the summit via the French route. Also in 2006, Leila Esfandyari from Damavand M&S Club along with her partner, Monireh Rafiei from Kermanshah climbed the Polish route in the middle of the wall. That was the first ascent on "Alam-Kouh" wall done by an expedition of just female climbers.


IMZ News Department
August 12, 2010


A selection camp for Adults’ national climbing team

Twenty four men and women belong to adult age group were invited to take part in a climbing selection camp from August 16th to 22nd in Zanjan, which will result Iran’s adult climbing team.
According to MSCFI’s official website, invited climbers both in women and men categories were among the top climbers during the 11th National Championship. The bests of these entrants during this 6-day camp will be picked up as members of Iran’s national climbing team for 2010 Asian Climbing Championship in China.

Female Invitees are: Elnaz Rekabi and Farnaz E.Zadeh from Zanjan, Sayeh T.Zadeh, Zajadeh S.Nezhad, Azam Karami, Nadia Javandel and Fatemeh Jafari all from Kerman, Negar Varshowchi and Fatemeh Solaimani from Hamedan, Fatemeh Meqdadi from Khorasan Razavi and Nasrin Abdolrahimi from Tehran.

Male invitees are: Davoud Rekabi from Zanjan, Ali B.Zadeh and H.Reza T.Jani from Khorasan Razavi, Reza P.Moqadam, Omid Sh.Bahaei, Sobhan Jafari, Mohammad Jafari and Behzad F.Pour all from Kerman, Mohsen M.Nezhad and Mohsen Shafiee from Qazvin, Sina Sheikhi from Khuzestan and A.Hamzeh P.Shafi.


IMZ News Department
August 12, 2010


Tehran mountaineers back in New Delhi

Tehran men and women expeditions got back in New Delhi this afternoon six days after getting to the top of Mt. Nun (7135 m), the highest peak in the part of Himalayan range lying on the Indian side of Jamu and Kashmir.
According to official website of MSCCT, Tehran expeditions left the mountain on August 7th, the day after coming back BC from the summit. They arrived in "Tongal" village, when flood had washed away the linked road to "Kargil" and no way had remained except waiting till Monday, then going on toward New Delhi.
Both expeditions are officially welcomed by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran at Imam Khomeini airport on Saturday, August 14th.


IMZ News Department
August 11, 2010


Tehran expeditions reached the top of Mt. Nun

Seven members of both men and women expeditions of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran summited Mt. Nun (7135 m) at 19:30 (local time), August 5th.
"Attempting for a couple of hours above C2 in a snowy weather, both expeditions reached C3 on August 4th. It was the first time to touch C3 at 6500m. They sit out bad weather till mid day on August 5th, but no considerable change occurred. Thus, seven men and women teamed up toward the summit at 13:00 (local time) in an extreme weather. They passed a mixed route, fixing ropes meter by meter to reach the top and eventually it happened at 19:30 local time on Thursday, August 5th," MSCCT’s official website reported.
According to the last call, Tehran mountaineers were descending back to BC on Friday, August 6th after spending the night after summit in C3.


IMZ News Department
August 7, 2010


Nun summit push is on

Tehran’s men and women expeditions left C2 toward C3 on east side of Mt. Nun on Wednesday, August 4th hopping for summit in coming two days.
"Both expeditions have spent last two nights in C1 and C2. Now, they are getting closer to C3 at 6480 m and after a short rest there, summit push will start via the eastern ridge,’ reported by leader, M.R. Kafash on a call yesterday.


IMZ News Department
August 5, 2010


Members of "Spilat" club topped out Mt. Mustagh Ata

Three members of "Spilat" mountaineering club of Tehran topped out Mt. Mustagh-Ata (7545 m), NW of China on August 4th.
"Parvaneh Hamidi, Hamid Mahmoudi and I reached the summit at 12:00 a.m. local time and then descent back down. We slept last night in C2 at 6200 m and arrived in BC this noon, August 5th," told exp. Leader, Zabihollah Hamidi.


IMZ News Department
August 5, 2010


Stranded climbers choppered to "Roudbarak" shelter

Mohammad Mohammadi Mohammad Mohammadi and Morteza Gholam-Pour Mohammad Mohammadi and Morteza Gholam-pour, the stranded climbers on Alam-Kouh wall were airlifted to "Roudbarak" shelter, in "Kelardasht" city of Mazandaran at 8 o’clock this afternoon, August 4th.
"Along with Husain Boland-Akhtar and Hasan Gerami, we began to rappel from the summit onto the central gully at 17:00, August 3rd. it took us 6 hours to fixed 210 meters rope to a snow-full ledge, where the climbers had bivouaced for more than 48 hours. Covering with dry clothing and drinking a little amount of warm tea charged them for a short jumaring, just 210 m! We just eyed them till they got safely to the top at 3:00 a.m., this morning. Afterwards, Mohammad and Morteza crawled into the tent pitched on the summit for a short rest, till the chopper arrived," told rescuer Omid Amohammadi.
"The helicopter was noticed somewhere around "Khersan" hut at 4650 m altitude on the SW shoulder of summit in the morning, but foggy weather didn’t allow touching down and it returned back to "Roudbarak". Eventually, at 7 o’clock this evening, the chopper took of once again and fortunately could take the climbers from "Khersan" hut back to Roudbarak," Omid continued, "however; I really appreciate the pilot, captain Abbas Goudarzi and Sadi Mohammadi, the representative of IRI Red crescent for the outstanding attempt they did to rescue the climbers."


IMZ News Department
August 4, 2010


Two rescuers reached the stranded climbers

Belaying system near Alam-Kouh summit Two members of rescue team found the stranded climbers alive at 20:15 on the granitic wall of Alam-Kouh in a cold and foggy weather.
"An adequate amount of warm clothes and food stuffs have been lowered down to the location, so climbers could be raised up to the top tomorrow in a safer condition," told head of Tehran Mountaineering Council, Kaveh Kashefi.


IMZ News Department
August 3, 2010


Rope rescue has started from Alam-Kouh Summit

airlifted rescuers The rescue efforts to evacuate the stranded climbers on the northern wall of Mt. Alam-Kouh have started from the summit (4864 m) since this afternoon.
"This morning, two groups have left their tents on "Alam-Chal" Glacier toward the summit, one form eastern route and the other one from German Flank in the west. Also Arash mountaineers have been airlifted to "Hesarchal", southern side of the summit to join the rest," told rescue organizer, Javad Nezam-Doust.
"The rescuers were lowered down from the summit, although a heavy fog has embraced the wall since 2’O clock this afternoon. They should have reached the spot by now (19:00 p.m.)." Javad added.


IMZ News Department
August 3, 2010


Alarms from Alam-Kouh Wall, Rescue efforts started

Central Gully of Alam-Kouh Wall Two climbers from Khorasan-Razavi got stranded in the upper third of 700-meter northern wall of Mt. Alam-Kouh (4864 m), western Alborz.
They were two rope mates set off to climb the "French" route on Granitic wall of Alam-Kouh on August 1st. Approximately 10 pitches had been climbed, they had reached the beginning of central gully that the weather became snowy. They forced to stop climbing and had no considerable move to get rid of the situation since then.
Meanwhile, rescue efforts have started from "Alam-Chal" glacier at the base of the wall. Also four experienced climbers from Arash Mountaineers club are waiting to be air lifted to the region.


IMZ News Department
August 1, 2010


Tehran Mountaineers reached C2 on Mt. Nun

Men and women expeditions of Tehran province set up the second camp around 6100 m on east side of Mt. Nun, located in Indian side of Himalaya.
"Tehran expeditions set off on July 30th toward C1, which had set up on July 27th, the day after arrival in BC. Early on Saturday, the male and female alpinists left C1 in a good weather to reach C2. Finally after an exhausting attempt to put 700 meters of fixed rope, they all arrived in 6100m and set up C2, then headed back to BC, after a short rest. The summit push is probable in their next attempt," MSCCT’s official website reported.


IMZ News Department
August 1, 2010


A complete trekking along "Zard-Kouh" ridge by Araki mountaineers

Nazi summits (4120 m) Haft-Tanan summit A group of four mountaineers from "Arak" city succeeded to climb "Zard-Kouh" ridge, a long layer of Zagros Range in south west side of Iran.
"We started from "Cheri" Cole on July 15th. It took us five days to reach "Haft-Tanan" summit through more than 40 peaks around 4000 meters. This is a long trekking in Zagros, SW of Iran. In some places we should descend as much as 700 meters and then took the way up on the opposite side. The highest point was "Kolounchi" peak, which was about 4221 meters," told one of the members, Mohammad Jalali.
"Zard-Kouh and several mountainous regions like that have passed over by Iranian mountaineers due to their increasing appetite for Himalaya, Karakoram and Pamir in recent years. It is the origin of "Karoon" and "Zayandeh-Roud", two large rivers in Iran. There are large glaciers, some with approximately 200 meters depth," Mohammad added.
Mohammad was accompanied by Ali-Reza Moradi, Mostafa Abbasi and Mehdi Mozafari in this 5-day trip. The only record of this trekking goes back to 1992 by Ebrahim Babaei and his decedent fiends Fereydoun Esmaeil-Zadeh, Jalal Raboki, Majid Bani-Hashemi and Ali Mohammad-Pour.


IMZ News Department
July 29, 2010


Tehran expeditions reached the bottom of Mt. Nun

Male and female expeditions of Tehran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council reached the bottom of Mt. Nun (7135 m) on Monday, July 26th.
"There are two Indian and Spanish expeditions other than Tehran expeditions in base camp at 4600 meter," council’s official website reported.


IMZ News Department
July 27, 2010


Successful rescue efforts on Mt. Damavand

A 53-year old mountaineer rescued on Saturday, July 24th 51 hours after his fall at 4800m on west side of Mt. Damavand.
The event occurred on July 22nd, when Gholam-Husain Shah-Mir was getting back from Damavand summit (5671) on his 53rd birthday. He had fallen down for less than 10 meters on a rocky slope. More than 50 mountaineers were on the west route but just a few of them went up for rescue. They just could put him in a sleeping bag and a safe place for future efforts. Besides, Air rescue was impossible in that altitude due to lack of well-equipped choppers.
However, a team of 3 alpinists reached the place at 7:30 a.m. on July 24th. Thankfully to god, he was still alive. After first aid operations, Ghola-Husain was carried down by a group of approximately 20 mountaineers to west route’s BC around 3500 m at 6:30 p.m., where a helicopter evacuated him to hospital.


IMZ News Department
July 25, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: Kerman topped female’s podium

Iran’s 11th National climbing championship in female category finished on July 23rd in "Polour" gym, where Kerman got known as the best of 22 participant teams.
"Women’s lead started on July 21st with 77 climbers came from 22 provinces of the country to compete in four Age groups; Youth A, B, Junior and adults. Youth and junior climbers were qualified on two different routes graded as 5.10bc and 5.11ab. No one managed a top on the harder qualifier in youth group, so that an easier route with 5.10c grade was set for their final round. Also a 5.11bc was set for junior’s final," said head of competition, Masoueh Gorji.
Adult’s lead attended by 33 climbers was divided into three different rounds. Qualifier was graded as 5.11b, semi-final was held on the same route with juniors final and the final route was set as difficult as 5.12b.
At the end of one week competitions in three categories of Speed, Bouldering and Lead, where 147 climbers had participated from 22 provinces, Zanjan and Gilan provinces respectively followed Kerman in championship’s final ranking. Also Masoud Zeynali was the chief route setter.
The top leaders in each age group are listed in the following table.


Rank
Youth A
Province
Youth B
Province
Junior
Province
Adults
Province
1
Maryam Joudaki
Markazi
Samira Soheili
Yazd
Fatemeh Jafari
Kerman
Elnaz Rekabi
Zanjan
2
Atefeh R.Pour
Fars
Kobra L.Z.Far
Hormozgan
Maryam Sanjideh
Hormozgan
Arqavan S.Kish
Gilan
3
Mahsa A.Mardani
Markazi
Fatemeh Etebari
Kerman
Samira Afzali
Kerman
Negar Varshowchi
Hamedan

IMZ News Department
July 25, 2010


Tehran mountaineers getting closer to Mt. Nun

Five days after leaving Iran, Tehran’s male and female expeditions hope to reach "Kargil", north side of India on July 22nd.
"Arriving in New Delhi, Tehran mountaineers have visited Indian mountaineering federation before flying to "Leh". They had planned today to reach "Kargil", the last city to visit. Trekking toward the BC of Mt. Nun (7135m) will start in a day or two," told MSCCT’s head, Kaveh Kashefi.
Led by Mohammad-Reza Kafash, Tehran’s female and male expeditions include 4 women and 5 men picked up after an 8-round selection process. Expedition’s leader is assisted by two instructors, a doctor and a logistic supporter.


IMZ News Department
July 22, 2010


Mahmoud Hasan-Zadeh won veterans lead competition

Mamoud Hasan-Zadeh won the male veterans lead competition that was hold in memorial of Farshad Khalili on July 15th at Taheri climbing gym of Tehran.
There were 11 climbers aged more than 35 from Tehran and Arak cities competing on qualifying route with 5.10bc grade, where 8 men managed a top and entered the second round. The second round has been assumed as the final but 3 climbers completely climbed a 5.11bc route and got neck and neck on points. Therefore Fatak Mousavi set a harder route as difficult as 5.12ab, where Abbas Mohammadi from Arak and Goudarz Nategh from Tehran respectively followed Mahmoud without any top out.
This competition had been organized by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT).


IMZ News Department
July 21, 2010


Alpine Club of Iran holds 90th monthly meeting

The 90th monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will start at 5:00 P.M. on July 21st in "Shahryaran-e-Javan" culture hall.
According to ACI’s official website, the meeting will set by a presentation about a Farsi website that serves a room to everyone on internet to point out his opinions subjected to mountaineering. It is called "Wiki-Pakoob". Then this meeting goes on with a description about the International caving expedition in "Megalaya" region, NE of India, which was attended by erfan Fekri and Leila Esfandyari last February.


IMZ News Department
July 20, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: Elnaz Rekabi won Women’s bouldering

Women's Bouldering Podium Iranian star climber, Elnaz Rekabi won women’s bouldering in 11th national climbing championship, which is going on till July 23rd at "Polour" climbing gym, southern side of Mt. Damavand.
"Women’s open bouldering competition started on July 19th with almost 40 climbers from 13 provinces vying in qualification round and finished this evening, where 6 climbers were competing to achieve more tops on final routes. The finalists were Elnaz Rekabi and Farnaz Esmaeel-Zadeh both from Zanjan, Nasrin Abdol-Rahimi from Tehran, Sayeh Tajalizadeh and Fatemeh Jafari from Kerman and Negar Varshowchi from Hamedan," said comp’s spokeswoman, roya Fardi, "and it was Elnaz, who topped bouldering podium. She followed by Nasrin, the winner of 10th championship and Sayeh."


IMZ News Department
July 20, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: Women’s speed finished

Iran’s 11th national climbing championship in female’s category started on July 16th with speed competition in "Davoudi" gym.
According to MSCFI’s official website, 26 female climbers from 10 provinces of the country belonging to four age groups had attended. Top climbers in each age group are listed in the following table.


Rank
Youth A
Province
Youth B
Province
Junior
Province
Adults
Province
1
Nazanin A.Nezhad
Kerman
Kobra L.Z.Far
Hromozgan
Zahra Hamzeei
Markazi
Sajadeh S.Nezhad
Kerman
2
Ameneh M.Zadeh
Gilan
Zeynab Saljuqi
Kerman
Aida Iranmanesh
Kerman
Farnaz E.Zadeh
Zanjan
3
Zahra M.Nezhad
Kerman
Fatemeh Etebari
Kerman
Razieh Khandani
Kerman
Azam Karami
Kerman

IMZ News Department
July 19, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: Men"s speed on July 15th

Men's Speed Competition At the end of men’s speed competition in 11th national climbing championship that was held in four age groups on July 15th, 6 climbers from Khorasan-Razavi province took half of distributed medals.
Speed was the last competition in men’s category where 17 climbers in Youth A, 10 climbers in Youth B, 19 juniors and 22 adults were competing to achieve national team’s membership and that made the competition so challenging. The final results are given in the table below.
Also Khorasan-Razavi, Kerman and Zanjan provinces respectively tiered higher than the other 20 teams in men’s category.


Rank
Youth A
Province
Youth B
Province
Junior
Province
Adults
Province
1
Rasoul Jafari
Khorasan Razavi
Seyed Moeen R.Nia
Khorasan Razavi
Iman E.Far
Khorasan Razavi
Reza P.Moghadam
Kerman
2
Saeed Hemmati
Khorasan Razavi
Saleh Neghabi
Khorasan Razavi
Mohsen Asgari
Khorasan Razavi
Mohsen M.Nezhad
Qazvin
3
Farzin Ghajerieh
Markazi
Morteza Feyzi
Zanjan
M.Mehdi Nouri
Khuzestan
Omid Sh.Bahaei
Kerman

IMZ News Department
July 19, 2010


Esmaeel Motehayer-Pasand died of heart stroke

Esmaeel rappeling down Bistoon Wall Iran’s big wall climbing veterans, Esmaeel Motehayer-Pasand died of heart attack on July 15th, while trying to pass the entrance test for Level-2 rock climbing instructor’s course in Pol-e-Khab climbing resort.
Despite a bypass surgery he had undertaken a few years ago, but Esmaeel’s tendency to push his climbing limits was not seriously affected. Born in 1968, his fame in iran’s mountaineering society was due to a few outstanding experiences such as membership in Iran’s national expedition to Mt. Rakapushi (1997), membership in Azad university’s expedition to Mont Blanc (2001) and Kilimanjaro (2003), opening a new route on northern wall of Alam-Kouh in winter (2001), opening a new route on western wall of Alam-Kouh (2008), opening a new route on Bistoon Wall (2007/2008), opening a new route on "Ab-e-Ask" Wall (2007) and instructing several courses with the theme of "Search and Rescue".


IMZ News Department
July 16, 2010


Two position changes in Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation

Passing more than 1 month after Iqbal Aflaki’s resignation, Hadi Saberi was appointed by MSCFI’s head, Mahmoud Shoaei as federation’s interim secretary.
At the same time with Iqbal, Homayoun Bakhtiari had also resigned from MSCFI’s committee of foreign affairs, where an unknown person named "Mohammad Fahimi" has served as committee head since end of last June.
But contrary to Mohammad Fahimi, 36-year old Hadi Saberi is a well-known person in Iran’s mountaineering society. He was the technical authority of Haft-Khan mountaineering group in Karaj city during last few years and also had the membership of Iran’s national expedition to Dhaulagiri last spring. He is also a teacher recruited by ministry of education since 1996.


IMZ News Department
July 15, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: Men"s speed on July 15th

Men’s speed competition in Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship will be held tomorrow, July 15th in four age groups at "Davoudi" climbing gym of Tehran.
According to competition’s manager, Mohammad Tabibi, qualification round is supposed to start at 9:00 A.M., July 15th with 68 climbers from 12 provinces vying on the new mounted speed climbing wall in "Davoudi" gym.
Also it is worth noting that just male spectators are allowed to take part.


IMZ News Department
July 14, 2010


Summit on Nanga-Parbat: Azim bagged his 4th 8000ers

Nanaga-Parbat Summit Having gone by just 14 days after arriving in BC, Azim Gheychi-Saz topped out Mt. Nanaga-Parbat (8125 m) on Saturday, July 10th.
According to MSCFI’s official website, Azim has gotten to the summit along with Nepalese brothers, Mingma and Dava and also three Korean climbers at 14:00 (local time) and has dispatched his summit when back in C4.
Prior to Nanga-Parbat, 29-year old Azim Gheychi-Saz has summited Everest (2005), Broad-Peak (2008) and Dhaulagiri (2010).


IMZ News Department
July 11, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: End results of men’s lead

Ahmad-Reza Solgi, Khosrow Hashem-Zadeh and Davoud Rekabi took the first place of men’s lead respectively in Youth A, Junior and Adults groups in Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship.
"Thursday, July 8th, in the evening the final round of lead competitions were held among respectively 10 and 13 entrants in Youth A and Junior group. The route was set as difficult as 5.13a, more challenging than qualifying routes and no one manage a top," Said competitions’ head judge, Babak Zia.
Adult’s semi-Final route was as same as Youth final with 27 climbers competing on. At the end 8 climbers entered the final round without just one top out. Therefore another 5.13a was set for the final to determine the winner and that was Davoud Rekabi, who gripped higher hold than the others and repeated his championship like in 2009.

The champions of each age group are listed in the following table.

Rank
Youth A
Province
Junior
Province
Adults
Province
1
A.Reza Solgi
Hamedan
Khosrow H.Zadeh
Khorasan Razavi
Davoud Rekabi
Zanjan
2
M.Sadegh Yousefi
Zanjan
Iman Ehsani-Far
Khorasan Razavi
Gh.Ali B.Zadeh
Khorasan Razavi
3
Majid Darabi
Khorasan Razavi
A.Reza Amirian & Sina Rahmati
Khuzestan & Kerman
H.Reza T.Jani
Khorasan Razavi


IMZ News Department
July 10, 2010

Azim Gheychi-Saz in C4 on Nanga-Parbat, hopping for summit today

Spending last night in C4 on Kinshhofer route, Azim Gheychi-Saz will put his effort to summit Nanga-Parbat today if everything specially the weather condition goes right.
According to MSCFI’s official website, Azim has set up C3 and C4 during last two days with summit push in his mind for Saturday, July 10th.


IMZ News Department
July 10, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: End of men’s lead comps in Youth B

Iran’s 11th National Lead Climbing comps got finished in men’s Youth B group where 34 climbers had participated to take national team’s membership for 2010 Asian Youth Champ.
"In youth B final round, none of the 10 entrants managed a top on a route 5.12a route but Mohammad-Husain Dast-Ranj from Kermanshah, who fell on the same hold that the second champ fell, took the first position in final ranking due to his superb performance in qualification round that resulted in 2 top out on both qualifying routes. Following him, Mohammad Reza Big-Deli and Hamed bagheri both from Zanjan took the silver and bronze medals. At the same time, Adults’ qualification was held on a 5.12a route in Flash style, where 27 out of 46 entrants were admitted to compete in semi-final round," told MSCFI’s representative, Mohammad Tabibi.


IMZ News Department
July 8, 2010


Azim arrived in C2 on Nanga-Parbat

Kinshofer route’s second camp saw Azim Gheychi-Sazand along with Nepalese brothers, Mingma and Dava again on Wednesday, July 7th.
"Azim and his friends could eventually exit BC after one week and directly went to C2. They were hoping to arrive at C3 today," MSCFI’s official website reported.


IMZ News Department
July 8, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: 173 climbers registered for men’s lead

Iran’s 11th National Lead climbing champs in men’s category started this morning at "Polour" climbing gym with 173 attendees in four age groups.
"Just in a couple of hours, 173 climbers from 23 provinces registered for lead comps in youth A,B, Junior and Adults age groups. It is a shocking record since the beginning of Iran’s climbing competitions. Qualification has been started among 130 climbers belong to Youth A,B and Junior groups since this morning on two different routes with difficulty grades of 5.11ab and 5.12ab and the ranking will be set based on total point amassed from both qualifiers," Mohammad Tabibi told IMZ News.
Adults’ qualification has been postponed to Thursday, July 8th.


IMZ News Department
July 7, 2010


Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: End results of men’s bouldering

Bouldering Champs beside MSCFI's head Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship started on Monday, July 5th at Polour climbing gym, where Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh won men’s bouldering after a two-day contest.
"Thirty seven climbers from 18 provinces took part in bouldering’s qualification, where 20 of them were validated for semi-final round after attempting on 5 various routes. In the second round another 4 problems were set, where Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh, Hamid-Reza Touzand-e-Jani, Khosrow Hashem-Zadeh all from Khorasan Razavi, Sobhan Jafari from Kerman, Masoud Ghasemi from Tehran and Arash Doustdarian from Luristan entered final round," said MSCFI’s representative, Mohammad Tabibi.
This evening, July 6th bouldering’s final comps were held on 4 new routes and Gholam-Ali, Hamid Reza and Sobhan respectively took first prizes.


IMZ News Department
July 6, 2010


Bad weather reported from Nanga-Parbat and K2

Iranian Leila Esfandyari and Azim Gheychi-Saz have sit out bad weather on K2 and Nanga-Parbat since last few days.
"Azim has left C2 downward on Wednesday, June 30th due to bad weather coming. He is still in BC along with his Nepalese friends and hopes weather improvement in two or three days," MSCFI’s official website reported.
Same weather condition has reported from K2, where Leila Esfandyari and her two high altitude porters (HAP) are waiting for snow to stop.


IMZ News Department
July 4, 2010


Tehran’s expeditions will be led by Mohammad Reza Kaffash

A group of five people were picked by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT) to accompany Tehran’s men and women expeditions during their attempt on Mt. Nun.
"Both teams will be led by Mohammad Reza Kaffash, who is assisted by Mohammad Naderian, Younes Reza-Khani, Masoud Hamidi (doctor) and Jafar Naseri (logistic support)," told head of MSCCT, Kaveh Kashefi.
Mohammad Reza Kaffash was the leader of Tehran’s women expedition on Spantik last summer, where all members got to the top via normal route.


IMZ News Department
July 3, 2010


The 5th joint expedition of Iranian mountain bloggers

Pen Expedition (2009), Mt. Binalood The 5th joint expedition of Iranian mountain bloggers known as "pen" expedition will be held on Mt. Mehrchal (3192m) on July 22nd and 23rd .
"Born in 2006, Pen expedition is an independent movement by Iranian mountain bloggers, who like to meet each other in their beloved places. For the fifth time it has been planned to summit one of the 3000ers in middle Alborz range near Tehran, which is sponsored by "Haft Gohar" company and assisted by "Lavasan" mountaineering group," told expedition organizer, Erfan Fekri.


IMZ News Department
July 1, 2010


Leila setup C1 on K2, Azim thinking of C3 on Daimir face

Azim Leila and Kazem Faridian on Nanga Iranian climbers on Pakistani 8000ers took the way up the base camps in K2 and Nanga-Parbat early this week.
"Leila has set up C1 on Abbruzi spur along with a train of mountaineers on Sunday, June 27th and descent back to BC the next day. She is still looking for proper weather window to resume," Iranianchallengers reported.
"The route smells very dangerous, fixed lines are very old and surely need repairing," Leila told on her call.
Also on Diamir side of Nanga-Pabat, it looks that joining with two Nepalese has revealed Azim’s abilities much more than before.
"Azim along with his Nepalese mates spent last night in C2 (6000m) just two days after arrival in BC and were planning to reach C3(7100m) in coming days." MFI reported.


IMZ News Department
June 30, 2010


"Bistoon" wall is going to host world’s big wall climbers

French GHM organization along with Mountaineering Federation and Alpine Club of Iran is going to hold an international big wall climbing festival on "Bistoon" gigantic wall from October 16th to 22nd.
"Suggested by GHM, this festival is a good opportunity for worldwide popularization of "Bistoon" limestone wall with 1200m height and 9km length located near Kermanshah, west of Iran. Till now 30 European and 2 American climbers have been invited. We like this festival to be cooperation between Iranian and foreign climbers to set new routes on the wall and also to check old routes from the sense of safety," said festival organizer, Ebrahim Notash.
He added: "climbers will be accommodated in an ancient inn at the foot of "Bistoon" wall, which had been abandoned for several years. It gets revived by Iran’s cultural heritage and tourism organization for the coming festival."


IMZ News Department
June 29, 2010


Leila Esfandyari set up her BC on K2

After a 7-day trek from Skardu, Iranian female climber Leila Esfandyari arrived in base camp on K2 yesterday, June 21st.
"Tuesday will be my rest day and I will walk into ABC on Wednesady, June 23rd," she said on a short call to Iranianchallengers.com.


IMZ News Department
June 22, 2010


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