A two-member Iranian expedition is going to climb a new route on the
south-west face of Broad peak (8047 m) the 12th highest peak on the
earth, which is located in Karakoram in Pakistan.
Iranian climbers, Ramin Shojaei and Kazem Farydian who decide to acclimatize
on the normal route and do an alpine try on a new route in Broad peak
left Tehran toward Islamabad on June 12 and flew to skardu on June
17.
This is the first Iranian expedition who tries a new route on 8000+
peak. Haft Gohar co. a local firm has partially sponsored the expedition,
which has shared the Broad peak permit with a French expedition.
Both team members - Ramin Shojaei and Kazem Faridyan - has accomplished
a number of climbs in Iran. Ramin also climbed Rakaposhi (7788m) in
1997, and Khan Tengri (7010m) in 2002.
“After Rakaposhi,
I read a bunch of Mountaineering books. Among them was Kokocka’s
“My Vertical World”. There we find that Kokocka and Korticka
were going to try the virgin south ridge, but they change their mind
and concentrate on the big traverse of Broad peak.
Keeping this challenge in mind, for the years I followed the matter
and found that no successful attempt has been done on this ridge where
its demanding part starts from 7500m. Yes, opening a new route on
a 8000er by the name of Iran was tempting.
Now, it was my turn to persuade others and convince them of the value
of the attempt.”, Ramin writes in his
personal weblog.
It was last year that two Iranian mountaineers summitted Broad peak
from the normal route as the first Iranians. It is worth mentioning
that a strong Italian-Kazakh expedition is going to attempt a new
route on the same face of Broad peak too.
IMZ News Department
June 18, 2005
left image : Ramin in a snow cave in Khan Tengri
Right image : Kazem (left) at the top of Alamkuh
Alam Kuh North Wall, A New Route In Winter, 2001 - Ramin Shojaei
Leila Bahrami, a member of Iranian Women 2005 Everest Expedition arrived
in Tehran on June 8.
Dr. Goodarzi, the medical doctor of the expedition
and Leila’s uncle accompanied her from Katmandu, where she had
been confined in a hospital.
She had been fallen in a brain trouble on south route of Everest about
two weeks ago. She was carried down to BC and was evacuated by a helicopter
to Katmandu.
Arriving in Tehran, Leila was carried directly to hospital and is
confined there now. She seems Ok, though the after effects of the
injury are still visible.
It is worth mentioning that as the member of national Iranian women
expeditions, Leila was already summitted Ararat in Turkey and Mera
peak and Pumory in Himalaya.
IMZ News Department
June 9, 2005
Photo : Leila Bahrami (right) and Farkhondeh Sadegh (left) before leaving Tehran at Tehran's Mehrabad Airport, March 2004 - IMZ Archive
Iran 2005 Everest Expedition comes back home on Monday June 13, according
to public relation of Iran Mountaineering Federation. Six men and
two women of this expedition summitted Everest on May 30.
They will arrive in Imam Khomeyni Airport in Tehran on June 13 at
16:30.
Photos of 8 Iranian Everest
Summiteers who scaled top of the world on May 30, 2005
Public Relation of IMF
June, 2005
Dideban-e-Koohestan (mountain guard) department of Alpine club of
Iran has participated in the sixth International Exhibition of Environment
in Iran, which has been held at Tehran’s Permanent Fairground
from June 8.
The exhibition is open to public from 10:00 to 17:00 up to June 12.
Alpine club of Iran
June, 2005
According to EverestNews.com and based on the report of Liaison officer
and Leader of Iranian Expedition, 8 members and 4 sherpas from the
expedition has summitted Everest today May 30.
The following is the list of Iranian 2005 Everest Expedition summiteers:
1. Mr. Eghbal Aflaky Aghbelagh (51) Leader, Alpinist, Iran
2. Mr. Mahmoud Shoaei (43) Member, Engineer, Iran
3. Mr. Azim Gheychisaz (24) Member, Iran
4. Mr. Reza Bahadorani (27) Member, Jewellery Sellar, Iran
5. Ms. Farkhondeh Sadegh (36) Member, Designer, Iran
6. Ms. Laleh Keshavarz (26) Member, Dentist, Iran
7. Mr. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (37), Climbing Sirdar, Juving, Kharikhola-1,
Solukhumbu, Nepal
8. Mr. Chhang Dawa Sherpa (23), Makalu-9, Sankhuwasava Nepal
9. Mr. Lhakpa Sherpa (44), Khumjung -1, Solukhumbu, Nepal
10. Mr. Karma Gyalgen Sherpa (21) Makalu-9, Sankhuwasava, Nepal
11. Mr. Reza Zarei Toudeshici, (36), Member, Alpinist, Iran.
12. Mr. Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani (46), Member, Mountain Guide, Iran
Among them are two Iranian women. As two representatives of Iranian
women, Farkhondeh Sadegh (Graphic Designer) and Laleh Keshavarz (Dentist)
scaled the top of the world to pave the way for new generation of
Iranian women. They are also the first Muslim women who scaled the
highest point of the world.
IMZ News Department
May 30, 2005
Image: Iranian Women on the top of Everest - Courtesy of Iran Mountaineering Federation
6 men and 2 women from Iranian 2005 Everest Expedition, summitted
Everest from the south route this morning -Monday May 30- at 10:45 local
time.
According to IMF’s public relation, Sadegh Aghajani leader of
Iranian Expedition has announced the news on Iranian at the top of
Everest in a call from BC. They have summitted Everest in the big
wave of mountaineers from the south col. There is no news still on
the name of summiteers.
It is worth mentioning that 2 women who have summitted are the first
Iranian women at the top of the world. They are also the first muslim
women at the top of Everets, too.
IMZ News Department
May 30, 2005
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