
A group of four mountaineers from "Arak" city succeeded to climb "Zard-Kouh" ridge, a long layer of Zagros Range in south west side of Iran.
"We started from "Cheri" Cole on July 15th. It took us five days to reach "Haft-Tanan" summit through more than 40 peaks around 4000 meters. This is a long trekking in Zagros, SW of Iran. In some places we should descend as much as 700 meters and then took the way up on the opposite side. The highest point was "Kolounchi" peak, which was about 4221 meters," told one of the members, Mohammad Jalali.
"Zard-Kouh and several mountainous regions like that have passed over by Iranian mountaineers due to their increasing appetite for Himalaya, Karakoram and Pamir in recent years. It is the origin of "Karoon" and "Zayandeh-Roud", two large rivers in Iran. There are large glaciers, some with approximately 200 meters depth," Mohammad added.
Mohammad was accompanied by Ali-Reza Moradi, Mostafa Abbasi and Mehdi Mozafari in this 5-day trip.
The only record of this trekking goes back to 1992 by Ebrahim Babaei and his decedent fiends Fereydoun Esmaeil-Zadeh, Jalal Raboki, Majid Bani-Hashemi and Ali Mohammad-Pour.
IMZ News Department
July 29, 2010
Male and female expeditions of Tehran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council reached the bottom of Mt. Nun (7135 m) on Monday, July 26th.
"There are two Indian and Spanish expeditions other than Tehran expeditions in base camp at 4600 meter," council’s official website reported.
IMZ News Department
July 27, 2010
A 53-year old mountaineer rescued on Saturday, July 24th 51 hours after his fall at 4800m on west side of Mt. Damavand.
The event occurred on July 22nd, when Gholam-Husain Shah-Mir was getting back from Damavand summit (5671) on his 53rd birthday. He had fallen down for less than 10 meters on a rocky slope. More than 50 mountaineers were on the west route but just a few of them went up for rescue. They just could put him in a sleeping bag and a safe place for future efforts. Besides, Air rescue was impossible in that altitude due to lack of well-equipped choppers.
However, a team of 3 alpinists reached the place at 7:30 a.m. on July 24th. Thankfully to god, he was still alive. After first aid operations, Ghola-Husain was carried down by a group of approximately 20 mountaineers to west route’s BC around 3500 m at 6:30 p.m., where a helicopter evacuated him to hospital.
IMZ News Department
July 25, 2010
Five days after leaving Iran, Tehran’s male and female expeditions hope to reach "Kargil", north side of India on July 22nd.
"Arriving in New Delhi, Tehran mountaineers have visited Indian mountaineering federation before flying to "Leh". They had planned today to reach "Kargil", the last city to visit. Trekking toward the BC of Mt. Nun (7135m) will start in a day or two," told MSCCT’s head, Kaveh Kashefi.
Led by Mohammad-Reza Kafash, Tehran’s female and male expeditions include 4 women and 5 men picked up after an 8-round selection process. Expedition’s leader is assisted by two instructors, a doctor and a logistic supporter.
IMZ News Department
July 22, 2010
Mamoud Hasan-Zadeh won the male veterans lead competition that was hold in memorial of Farshad Khalili on July 15th at Taheri climbing gym of Tehran.
There were 11 climbers aged more than 35 from Tehran and Arak cities competing on qualifying route with 5.10bc grade, where 8 men managed a top and entered the second round. The second round has been assumed as the final but 3 climbers completely climbed a 5.11bc route and got neck and neck on points. Therefore Fatak Mousavi set a harder route as difficult as 5.12ab, where Abbas Mohammadi from Arak and Goudarz Nategh from Tehran respectively followed Mahmoud without any top out.
This competition had been organized by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT).
IMZ News Department
July 21, 2010
The 90th monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will start at 5:00 P.M. on July 21st in "Shahryaran-e-Javan" culture hall.
According to ACI’s official website, the meeting will set by a presentation about a Farsi website that serves a room to everyone on internet to point out his opinions subjected to mountaineering. It is called "Wiki-Pakoob". Then this meeting goes on with a description about the International caving expedition in "Megalaya" region, NE of India, which was attended by erfan Fekri and Leila Esfandyari last February.
IMZ News Department
July 20, 2010
Iranian star climber, Elnaz Rekabi won women’s bouldering in 11th national climbing championship, which is going on till July 23rd at "Polour" climbing gym, southern side of Mt. Damavand.
"Women’s open bouldering competition started on July 19th with almost 40 climbers from 13 provinces vying in qualification round and finished this evening, where 6 climbers were competing to achieve more tops on final routes. The finalists were Elnaz Rekabi and Farnaz Esmaeel-Zadeh both from Zanjan, Nasrin Abdol-Rahimi from Tehran, Sayeh Tajalizadeh and Fatemeh Jafari from Kerman and Negar Varshowchi from Hamedan," said comp’s spokeswoman, roya Fardi, "and it was Elnaz, who topped bouldering podium. She followed by Nasrin, the winner of 10th championship and Sayeh."
IMZ News Department
July 20, 2010
At the end of men’s speed competition in 11th national climbing championship that was held in four age groups on July 15th, 6 climbers from Khorasan-Razavi province took half of distributed medals.
Speed was the last competition in men’s category where 17 climbers in Youth A, 10 climbers in Youth B, 19 juniors and 22 adults were competing to achieve national team’s membership and that made the competition so challenging. The final results are given in the table below.
Also Khorasan-Razavi, Kerman and Zanjan provinces respectively tiered higher than the other 20 teams in men’s category.
Rank |
Youth A |
Province |
Youth B |
Province |
Junior |
Province |
Adults |
Province |
1 |
Rasoul Jafari |
Khorasan Razavi |
Seyed Moeen Razavi-Nia |
Khorasan Razavi |
Iman Ehsani-Far |
Khorasan Razavi |
Reza Pakdel-Moghadam |
Kerman |
2 |
Saeed Hemmati |
Khorasan Razavi |
Saleh Neghabi |
Khorasan Razavi |
Mohsen Asgari |
Khorasan Razavi |
Mohsen Mohammadi-Nezhad |
Qazvin |
3 |
Farzin Ghajerieh |
Markazi |
Morteza Feyzi |
Zanjan |
Mohammad-Mehdi Nouri |
Khuzestan |
Omid Sheikh-Bahaei |
Kerman |
IMZ News Department
July 19, 2010
Iran’s big wall climbing veterans, Esmaeel Motehayer-Pasand died of heart attack on July 15th, while trying to pass the entrance test for Level-2 rock climbing instructor’s course in Pol-e-Khab climbing resort.
Despite a bypass surgery he had undertaken a few years ago, but Esmaeel’s tendency to push his climbing limits was not seriously affected. Born in 1968, his fame in iran’s mountaineering society was due to a few outstanding experiences such as membership in Iran’s national expedition to Mt. Rakapushi (1997), membership in Azad university’s expedition to Mont Blanc (2001) and Kilimanjaro (2003), opening a new route on northern wall of Alam-Kouh in winter (2001), opening a new route on western wall of Alam-Kouh (2008), opening a new route on Bistoon Wall (2007/2008), opening a new route on "Ab-e-Ask" Wall (2007) and instructing several courses with the theme of "Search and Rescue".
IMZ News Department
July 16, 2010
Passing more than 1 month after Iqbal Aflaki’s resignation, Hadi Saberi was appointed by MSCFI’s head, Mahmoud Shoaei as federation’s interim secretary.
At the same time with Iqbal, Homayoun Bakhtiari had also resigned from MSCFI’s committee of foreign affairs, where an unknown person named "Mohammad Fahimi" has served as committee head since end of last June.
But contrary to Mohammad Fahimi, 36-year old Hadi Saberi is a well-known person in Iran’s mountaineering society. He was the technical authority of Haft-Khan mountaineering group in Karaj city during last few years and also had the membership of Iran’s national expedition to Dhaulagiri last spring. He is also a teacher recruited by ministry of education since 1996.
IMZ News Department
July 15, 2010
Men’s speed competition in Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship will be held tomorrow, July 15th in four age groups at "Davoudi" climbing gym of Tehran.
According to competition’s manager, Mohammad Tabibi, qualification round is supposed to start at 9:00 A.M., July 15th with 68 climbers from 12 provinces vying on the new mounted speed climbing wall in "Davoudi" gym.
Also it is worth noting that just male spectators are allowed to take part.
IMZ News Department
July 14, 2010
Having gone by just 14 days after arriving in BC, Azim Gheychi-Saz topped out Mt. Nanaga-Parbat (8125 m) on Saturday, July 10th.
According to MSCFI’s official website, Azim has gotten to the summit along with Nepalese brothers, Mingma and Dava and also three Korean climbers at 14:00 (local time) and has dispatched his summit when back in C4.
Prior to Nanga-Parbat, 29-year old Azim Gheychi-Saz has summited Everest (2005), Broad-Peak (2008) and Dhaulagiri (2010).
IMZ News Department
July 11, 2010
Ahmad-Reza Solgi, Khosrow Hashem-Zadeh and Davoud Rekabi took the first place of men’s lead respectively in Youth A, Junior and Adults groups in Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship.
"Thursday, July 8th, in the evening the final round of lead competitions were held among respectively 10 and 13 entrants in Youth A and Junior group. The route was set as difficult as 5.13a, more challenging than qualifying routes and no one manage a top," Said competitions’ head judge, Babak Zia.
Adult’s semi-Final route was as same as Youth final with 27 climbers competing on. At the end 8 climbers entered the final round without just one top out. Therefore another 5.13a was set for the final to determine the winner and that was Davoud Rekabi, who gripped higher hold than the others and repeated his championship like in 2009.
The champions of each age group are listed in the following table.
Rank |
Youth A |
Province |
Junior |
Province |
Adults |
Province |
1 |
Ahmad-Reza Solgi |
Hamedan |
Khosrow Hashem-Zadeh |
Khorasan Razavi |
Davoud Rekabi |
Zanjan |
2 |
Mohammad-Sadegh Yousefi |
Zanjan |
Iman Ehsani-Far |
Khorasan Razavi |
Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh |
Khorasan Razavi |
3 |
Majid Darabi |
Khorasan Razavi |
Ali-Reza Amirian & Sina Rahmati |
Khuzestan & Kerman |
Hamid-Reza Touzand-e-Jani |
Khorasan Razavi |
IMZ News Department
July 10, 2010
Spending last night in C4 on Kinshhofer route, Azim Gheychi-Saz will put his effort to summit Nanga-Parbat today if everything specially the weather condition goes right.
According to MSCFI’s official website, Azim has set up C3 and C4 during last two days with summit push in his mind for Saturday, July 10th.
IMZ News Department
July 10, 2010
Iran’s 11th National Lead Climbing comps got finished in men’s Youth B group where 34 climbers had participated to take national team’s membership for 2010 Asian Youth Champ.
"In youth B final round, none of the 10 entrants managed a top on a route 5.12a route but Mohammad-Husain Dast-Ranj from Kermanshah, who fell on the same hold that the second champ fell, took the first position in final ranking due to his superb performance in qualification round that resulted in 2 top out on both qualifying routes. Following him, Mohammad Reza Big-Deli and Hamed bagheri both from Zanjan took the silver and bronze medals. At the same time, Adults’ qualification was held on a 5.12a route in Flash style, where 27 out of 46 entrants were admitted to compete in semi-final round," told MSCFI’s representative, Mohammad Tabibi.
IMZ News Department
July 8, 2010
Kinshofer route’s second camp saw Azim Gheychi-Sazand along with Nepalese
brothers, Mingma and Dava again on Wednesday, July 7th.
"Azim and his friends could eventually exit BC after one week and directly went to
C2. They were hoping to arrive at C3 today," MSCFI’s official website reported.
IMZ News Department
July 8, 2010
Iran’s 11th National Lead climbing champs in men’s category
started this morning at "Polour" climbing gym with 173 attendees in four age
groups.
"Just in a couple of hours, 173 climbers from 23 provinces registered for lead
comps in youth A,B, Junior and Adults age groups. It is a shocking record since the
beginning of Iran’s climbing competitions. Qualification has been started among
130 climbers belong to Youth A,B and Junior groups since this morning on two different
routes with difficulty grades of 5.11ab and 5.12ab and the ranking will be set based on
total point amassed from both qualifiers," Mohammad Tabibi told IMZ News.
Adults’ qualification has been postponed to Thursday, July 8th.
IMZ News Department
July 7, 2010
Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship started on Monday, July 5th at Polour climbing gym, where Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh won men’s bouldering after a two-day
contest.
"Thirty seven climbers from 18 provinces took part in bouldering’s
qualification, where 20 of them were validated for semi-final round after attempting on
5 various routes. In the second round another 4 problems were set, where Gholam-Ali
Barat-Zadeh, Hamid-Reza Touzand-e-Jani, Khosrow Hashem-Zadeh all from Khorasan Razavi,
Sobhan Jafari from Kerman, Masoud Ghasemi from Tehran and Arash Doustdarian from
Luristan entered final round," said MSCFI’s representative, Mohammad Tabibi.
This evening, July 6th bouldering’s final comps were held on 4 new
routes and Gholam-Ali, Hamid Reza and Sobhan respectively took first prizes.
IMZ News Department
July 6, 2010
Iranian Leila Esfandyari and Azim Gheychi-Saz have sit out bad weather on K2 and
Nanga-Parbat since last few days.
"Azim has left C2 downward on Wednesday, June 30th due to bad weather
coming. He is still in BC along with his Nepalese friends and hopes weather improvement
in two or three days," MSCFI’s official website reported.
Same weather condition has reported from K2, where Leila Esfandyari and her two high
altitude porters (HAP) are waiting for snow to stop.
IMZ News Department
July 4, 2010
A group of five people were picked by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of
Tehran (MSCCT) to accompany Tehran’s men and women expeditions during their
attempt on Mt. Nun.
"Both teams will be led by Mohammad Reza Kaffash, who is assisted by Mohammad
Naderian, Younes Reza-Khani, Masoud Hamidi (doctor) and Jafar Naseri (logistic
support)," told head of MSCCT, Kaveh Kashefi.
Mohammad Reza Kaffash was the leader of Tehran’s women expedition on Spantik last
summer, where all members got to the top via normal route.
IMZ News Department
July 3, 2010
The 5th joint expedition of Iranian mountain bloggers known as "pen" expedition will be held on Mt. Mehrchal (3192m) on July 22nd and 23rd
.
"Born in 2006, Pen expedition is an independent movement by Iranian mountain
bloggers, who like to meet each other in their beloved places. For the fifth time it has
been planned to summit one of the 3000ers in middle Alborz range near Tehran, which is
sponsored by "Haft Gohar" company and assisted by "Lavasan"
mountaineering group," told expedition organizer, Erfan Fekri.
IMZ News Department
July 1, 2010
Iranian climbers on Pakistani 8000ers took the way up the base camps in K2 and
Nanga-Parbat early this week.
"Leila has set up C1 on Abbruzi spur along with a train of mountaineers on Sunday,
June 27th and descent back to BC the next day. She is still looking for
proper weather window to resume," Iranianchallengers reported.
"The route smells very dangerous, fixed lines are very old and surely need
repairing," Leila told on her call.
Also on Diamir side of Nanga-Pabat, it looks that joining with two Nepalese has
revealed Azim’s abilities much more than before.
"Azim along with his Nepalese mates spent last night in C2 (6000m) just two days
after arrival in BC and were planning to reach C3(7100m) in coming days." MFI
reported.
IMZ News Department
June 30, 2010
French GHM organization along with Mountaineering Federation and Alpine Club of Iran is
going to hold an international big wall climbing festival on "Bistoon"
gigantic wall from October 16th to 22nd.
"Suggested by GHM, this festival is a good opportunity for worldwide
popularization of "Bistoon" limestone wall with 1200m height and 9km length
located near Kermanshah, west of Iran. Till now 30 European and 2 American climbers
have been invited. We like this festival to be cooperation between Iranian and foreign
climbers to set new routes on the wall and also to check old routes from the sense of
safety," said festival organizer, Ebrahim Notash.
He added: "climbers will be accommodated in an ancient inn at the foot of
"Bistoon" wall, which had been abandoned for several years. It gets revived
by Iran’s cultural heritage and tourism organization for the coming festival."
IMZ News Department
June 29, 2010
After a 7-day trek from Skardu, Iranian female climber Leila Esfandyari arrived in
base camp on K2 yesterday, June 21st.
"Tuesday will be my rest day and I will walk into ABC on Wednesady, June 23rd," she said on a short call to Iranianchallengers.com.
IMZ News Department
June 22, 2010
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