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Seyed Husain Salehi skinned up to Mustagh-ata summit

Skinning up for almost 12 hours from C2 at 6200 m, Iranian Seyed Husain Salehi got to the top of Mt. Mustagh-Ata this noon, July 27.
"Husain left C2 last night and stopped in C3 for a short rest. He then proceeded to the top and reached at 15:30 (Local Time). At the time, weather has become snowy with 60 km/h wind. Afterwards, he started skiing toward the lower camps and reached BC in the evening," Husain’s brother reportedly told IMZ News.
Born in 1982, Husain Salehi is the second Iranian to accomplish ski touring on Mt. Mustagh-Ata. Before him, the late Farshad Khalili achieved the goal in 2007. It’s worth noting that Husain was a member of 2007 expedition too.

IMZ News Department
July 27, 2011

GII accident in detail by Mahmud Hashemi

"Leila Esfanyari sat below the Serac in a short distance beneath the summit on GII. She was too mush exhausted. Suddenly she slipped. Sliding got faster, faster and faster, and Leila couldn’t control herself and disappeared in a flash." Mahmud Hashemi reported from BC on Tuesday, July 26.
Iranian Mahmud Hashemi told IMZ News about the fatal accident happened last Friday to Leila Esfandyari, while descending from summit on GII. He said:
"Weather forecast on last Monday showed a good window for coming days. Therefore, all Iranian climbers (ten men and Leila) left BC toward higher altitudes on July 19. They split into two groups. Advanced group comprised of Azim Gheychisaz, Leila, Rasoul (Leila’s Pakistani porter), Iraj Ma’ani, Kurosh Negahban, Husain Moqadam, Abdolazim Berahmani and I, while the team behind us included four men; Sohbatollah Bahadorani, Reza Bahadorani, Husain Gholi-Pour and Abbas Ranjbari."
"We stayed in each camp for one night and reached C3 at 7000 m on Thursday, July 21 in the evening. At the time, the second group settled in C2. Friday was a busy summit push day and we would like to join, but everything due to weather and our physical condition, so we prefered to take a rest before making any decision."
"Early morning, we were ready. We took the trail toward the top. After a few hours going up in good weather, when we had passed 7800m, Kurosh, Abdolazim and Iraj returned."
"There was no fixed line above C3, even in the traverse beneath the pyramid. Leila put aside her ice axe to Rasoul and used trekking poles instead. She was the last climber. Azim was heading up faster than all. He reached summit at 12:00 local time and after a quarter Husain and I joined him, while Pakistani man arrived a few minutes later. We stayed on the top more than one hour for Leila. She got to the top at 13:30. She was obviously tired."
"We should be in C3 prior to sunset. Leila took Azim’s axe and proceeded down. Husain and I was descending at the head of the team." Mahmud reported, "Leila sat down just after the summit serac to rest. Suddenly she sliped. She moved down and speeded up. Unfortunately, she lost the axe and couldn’t stopped sliding."
Coming down, climbers found Leila’s dead body around 7650, flaged it and retuned back to C3. "Iranian climbers gathered in C3 in the evening to argue about the situation," Mahmud told, "We were all overwhelmed with this question, "Could we recover Leila’s dead body or not?" It was difficult. It needed at least 10 powerful climbers and we were not. So we decided to leave her there and returned back to BC."
Iranian climber are now in base camp sitting out bad weather. GII summiteers will attempt on GI, while rest of party is going to accomplished their mission on GII.

IMZ News Department
July 26, 2011

A statement by family of Leila Esfandyari about GII accident

One day after the fatal event on Gasherbrum II, family of Leila Esfandyari expressed their opinion on this event. The Esfandyari family’s statement is as follows:
"Hearing about Leila’s fatality was terrible. We are really sad, but from another point of view, it looks like that Leila has gained her desires. She has been unified with her most beloved subject in the world and we should respect her way of thinking. Therefore, we should say that it is our satisfaction to leave Leila’s dead body on the mountain."
Born in 1970 in Tehran, Leila Esfandyari was one of the most famous women in Iran’s mountaineering and caving community. A few of her workouts are listed below, which shows his deep intrest in expanding her abilities in tough conditions.
1- Climbing AlamKouh wall via "Polish-1973" route along with Monire Rafi’ee in 2006. They put a record as the first all-women attempt on the wall forever.
2- Complete survey of "Paro" cave, Iran’s deepest cave in Kermanshah province in 2001.
3- Complete survey of "Namakdan" cave, world’s longest salty cave in Qeshm Island in Persian Gulf.
4- Summit on Mt. Damavand, the highest peak on the country from huge "Yakhar" glacier along with Kazem Faridian and Husain Abolhasani in 2008.
5- Summit on Nangaparbat, the ninth highest peak in the world in 2009. Leila was the leader of the first iranian expedition on the mountain comprised of six men.
6- Attempting K2, the second highest peak in the world in 2010 up to 7400 m. K2 has seen just three iranian climbers already; Leila and two men climbers.
7- Member of an international caving expedition in Megalaya, India in 2009 along with Erfan Fekri. The expedition was led by British Simon Brox.
8- Summit on GII in 2011. Leila was the first Iranian woman on the mountain.
It is worth noting that the European filming company of Iceburg has produced a documentary about mountain sports in Iran in 2011. A seance of this film is dedicated to an interview with Leila Esfandyari.

IMZ News Department
July 25, 2011

Summits by Iranian and a fatal accident on GII

Iranian lady, Leila Esfandyari fell to her death, while attempting to return back from GII’s summit this noon, July 22nd.
According to reports, Leila was on summit push with a group of Iranian climbers this morning. A few of them reached the top along with Leila, but in the way back to C3 in a place a bit lower than the summit, she fell.
Iranian climbers are all resting in C3 now. More details are expected for tomorrow.

IMZ News Department
July 22, 2011

Davoud Rekabi entered semifinal in men’s lead at IFSC Championship

Iranian climber, Davoud Rekabi qualified for semifinal round in men’s lead competition at IFSC Championship.
According to IFSC’s official website, Mmen’ lead qualification took place on July 21st, where 130 climbers competed in two separate groups to enter the second stage. Finally, twenty six climbers from fifteen countries passed with Iranian Davoud Rekabi as 17th climber. There were also four other Iranian leaders, who placed 69th, 77th, 101st and 109th. Semifinal round will be executed tomorrow, July 23rd.

IMZ News Department
July 22, 2011

Elnaz Rekabi placed 57th in lead qualification

Iran’s representative in women’s lead competition at 2011 IFSC Championship placed 57th in qualification round.
There were seventy three women climbers in lead qualification round. They led up two different routes rated 5.13b and 5.143c, where Iranian Elnaz Rejkabi placed 57th among all and lost semifinal round.
Lead competition will continue this afternoon in men’s qualification round with 140 climbers. Iran’s delegation comprised of Davoud Rakabi, Amirhamzeh Pourshafi, Khosrow Hashemzadeh, Mojtaba Khodaei and Gholamali Baratzadeh.

IMZ News Department
July 21, 2011

Summit push expected on GII, Arash Mountaineers in BC

Iranian climbers reached higher camps on GII’s normal route in a snowy weather this evening, July 21, 2011.
Mahmud Hashemi, Iraj Ma’ani, Azim Gheychisaz, Kourosh Negahban, Husain Moqadam, Abdolazim Berahmani and Leila Esfandyari are now resting in C3, hoping for summit push tomorrow. Meanwhile, Bahadorani brothers (Reza and Sohbatolah) and Mehdi Gholipour have settled in C2 at 6500.
Also on Broad Peak, Arash Mountaineers have retuned BC on Wednesday to prepare for pushing C3. They have gone up to 6600 on SW face in recent days.

IMZ News Department
July 21, 2011

Husain Salehi to ski mountaineering on Mustagh-Ata

Iranian alpinist, Seyed Husain Salehi flew to urumq in western china on July 18, aiming for ski mountaineering on Mustagh-Ata.
Accompanying with a camera-man, they intend to make a documentary about ski mountaineering as well.
Husain was on a similar project in 2007 with Iran’s pioneer ski mountaineer Farshad Khalili and his fellow Reza Tahmasbi. In that expedition only Farshad could skin up to summit and descent.

IMZ News Department
July 19, 2011

Arash Mountaineers approaching C2 on BP’s southwest face

Arash Mountaineers are approaching C2 on SW face of Mt. Broad-Peak since this morning, July 19.
"They entered C1 last night with heavy loads including mostly technical gears. They left the tents this morning to reach 6500 m, where C2 will set up. The portion of the route between C1 and C2 is a bit dangerous and needs fixing ropes," Kiyoumars Babazadeh reportedly told.
Arash Mountaineers are remotely checked by Kazak star, Denis Urubko in this expedition. Amid preparatory camps, they underwent an eight-day stage in Kazakhstan instructed by Denis last March.

IMZ News Department
July 19, 2011

Lead competition to honor the late Mohammad Davoudi

A lead competition will be carried on July 22nd in men’s category at "Davoudi" climbing gym in Tehran.
Climbers from all over the country could attend this event. The competition will kick off at 8:00 a.m. at Tehran’s oldest climbing gym.
This gym opened in 1992 and named in honor of mountaineering federation’s president, who passed away in 1989 because of HACE. Mohammad Davoudi was a talent rock climber as well, who did difficult first ascents over the country in 1980s.

IMZ News Department
July 19, 2011

Leila waits for another summit push, A pile of Iranians settled at GII

Iranian Leila Esfandyari was on summit approach on GII on July 14th, while strong wind and deep snow push her back just hundred meters before the top.
After weather improvement, Leila reached C3 at 7000 m along with a high porter on July 13th, planning for direct summit push. They took a short rest in the camp and set off at mid-night.
"We have been walking for almost twelve hours, when the altimeter indicated 7885 m. we were in a short distance from the top, but with the strong wind bellowing there It seemed that we had lost the chance this time, although A few climbers were backing from the summit. However, I will do another summit attempt in coming days," reported Leila from BC today.
Moreover, a team of nine strong men arrived in BC last Friday. Azim Gheychisaz, Mehdi Gholi-Pour, Abbas Ranjbari, Kourosh Negahban, Husain Moghadam, Mahmud Hashemi, Iraj Ma’ani, Reza Bahadorani and his brother Sohbatollah. Except Abbas and Kourosh, rests of climbers will attempt the double header of GI & GII.

IMZ News Department
July 17, 2011

Iranian climbers eliminated in bouldering’s qualification round

Iranian climbers eliminated in first round of bouldering competitions at 2011 IFSC world championship being held in Arco, Italy.
According to IFSC’s official website, men’s bouldering opened on July 15 with 134 climbers from 47 countries vying in qualification round. Twenty climbers out of this pile managed to pass this round with no Iranian included. Ali Barat-Zadeh, Hamidreza Touzandejani and Mojtaba Khodaei placed 49th, 66th and 90th in final ranking.
Also in women’s bouldering, Iran’s representative, Negar Varshowchi took 41st place among 51 women from 33 countries.

IMZ News Department
July 16, 2011

Arash Mountaineers set up C1 on SW side of Broad Peak

Arash Mountaineers set up C1 at 5800 m on BP’s southwest face this evening, July 14 and returned back due to bad weather.
Arash Mountaineers with six members has arrived at the mountain on July 12, twelve days later than their arrival time in 2009 expedition. Despite, they are familiar with the portion of SW route below 7000 m nd this helps them saving time for upper part. Above 7000 m, they should proceed on an unclimbed rocky face to reach the summit.

IMZ News Department
July 14, 2011

National sport climbing team went to Italy

Iran’s national sport climbing team left the Iran with eleven members on July 13th to attend 2011 IFSC championship in Italy.
Iranian sport climbers has participated in a worldwide event once in 2010 IFSC Worldcup and this is their first time to compete in IFSC Championship. This team includes eight men and three women, who are going to take part in bouldering, lead and speed competitions from July 15. Competitors in each categroy is as follows:

Men’s Bouldering: Mojtaba Khodaei, Gholamali Baratzadeh

Women’s Bouldering: Negar Varshowchi

Men’s Lead: Davoud Rekabi, Amir Hamzeh Pourshafi, Khosrow Hashemzadeh

Women’s Lead: Elnaz Rekabi

Men’s Speed: Mohsen Shafi’ee, Mohsen Mohammadinejad, Hamidreza Touzandejani

Women’s Speed: Farnaz Esmaeelzadeh

Iran’s national team is managed by Ahmad Shirmohammad in this championship.

IMZ News Department
July 14, 2011

TMU club fixed in its place at the top of Tehran Climbing League

Rock climbing club of Tarbiat Modarres University (TMU) took all top titles of second week competitions at Tehran climbing league.
The second week of Tehran’s 2011 climbing league held on Friday, July 8 at "Sipan" climbing gym. The competition carried out in lead category where 44 climbers from 10 clubs were vying on a route rated 5.12b, where assessment was done in youth, Junior and Adults categories separately.
In Adults group, TMU climbers managed three top-outs and got into equal position. Therefore another route was set to determine the champion. The route was a difficult as 5.12c, where Masoud Qasemi took managed top-out again and won the competition like the previous week. Also in Youth and Junior groups, where each club has one competitor, TMU climbers took the first place.
Now after two weeks competition, TMU is at the top higher than Hemmat Shemiran and Alvares clubs.
The table below indicates top climbers of second week.

Youth A
Mohammad Kavousi
Tarbiat Modares
Husain Rohani
Tarbiat Modares
Maoud Ghasemi
Tarbiat Modares
Erfan Zareei
Amin Ketabi
Hemmat Shemiran
Husain Sadeqi
Tarbiat Modares
Mohsen Tolouei
Ardeshir SasanFar
Artimes F.Yeganeh
Tarbiat Modares

IMZ News Department
July 9, 2011

Discovery of a dead body after 41 months in Alborz Range

A dead body discovered on the northern slopes of Mt. Koloun-Bastak in middle Alborz range by a group of amateur climbers, who themselves were lost.
The event happened on Friday, July 8 where a group of climbers were descending back from Kolou-Bastak summit (4200 m) next to Dizin ski resort. The body was mostly decomposed, but climbers could detect it from an identity card in a backpack beside the body. He was Hamid-Reza Baratchi, a member of Hemmat Shemiran Mountaineering club of Tehran.
"Hamid was interested too much in solo ascents," said his friend Husain Azimi, "In February 2007, he set off for an attempt on Mt. Sarakchal and never came back. Before leaving home, he had left a note about his destination. So we looked the entire Sarakchal ridge for evidence but nothing found till the end of September, 2007, when we stopped search attempts. But Friday’s event showed that Hamid has been missed or may be changed his way toward the ridge between Sarak-Chal and Koulounbastak."

IMZ News Department
July 9, 2011

Leila Esfandyari is in Pakistan attempting on GII

Iranian woman climber, Leila Esfandyari has been in Pakistan since June 17 for her third 8000er attempt in Karakorum.
"I am talking from base camp at Gasherbrum II," said Leila a few minutes ago, "I am here with a high porter since June 28. On July 5th we reached C2 and stayed two nights there hopping for C3 on July 7th, but weather upset and made us to return back to BC. Good weather expected to reach in two days. Moreover, Abdol-Azim Berahmani is also attempting on GII this season from Iran. He arrived on June 30." As a member of Damavand Ski & Mountaineering Club of Tehran, Leila has Nanga-Parbat in her bag and is trying to summit more 8000ers. Last year She was attempting K2 and went up to 7400 m.

IMZ News Department
July 9, 2011

Arash Mountaineers to resume unfinished route on BP

Arash Mountaineers comprised of 6 men left Tehran last evening, July 1 toward Islam-Abad in Pakistan aiming to resume the unfinished route on SW side of Mt. Broad Peak.
Reza Kazemi (leader), Idin Bozorgi, Afshin Sa’di, Reza Yaqubi, Mojtaba Jarahi and Ali Azizi are members of this expedition. The expedition has differed too much compared to 2009 expedition, which included experienced climbers like Ramin Shojaei, Saeid Tousi, Husain Khosh-Cheshm and Omid Safi and led by Kiyumars Babazadeh.
Babazadeh, 67, who advised medically to stay in Tehran, said: "The climbers are in good shape. They underwent a special course by Kazakh star, Denis Urubko last March. Afterwards, preparatory process was done seriously. Now we have no problem except time that caused by visa approval process."
Arash Mountaineers opened a new route on BP’s south west face up to 7050 m after forty days in summer 2009. The portion of the route below 6000 meter was claimed by a French ezpedition, which took them only three days just before Iranians entered the region. Despite, Iranian climbers has never had such a mission above 6000 meter before.

IMZ News Department
July 4, 2011

Another Iranian group for Gasherbrum I & II

Another group of Iranian climbers left the country on Sunday, July 3 aiming to attempt on Gasherbrum I & II.
Mahmud Hashemi, Iraj Ma’ani, Husain Moqadam and Kourosh Negahban are members of this group. Also an expedition comprised of Azim Gheychisaz, Abbas Ranjbari and Mehdi Gholi-Pour has gone to Pakistan before.
Mahmud, Iraj, Husain, Mehdi and Azim are going to attempt both of GI and GII this season.

IMZ News Department
July 4, 2011

Iranian climbers do prepare for IFSC World Championship

Iranian men and women climbers do their last efforts to take part in 2011 IFSC World Championship in Arco, Italy with the title of national team’s member.
The last camp for climbers will be held at "Enqelab" climbing gym in Zanjan city over July 1st-8th. Four women and ten men are called to attend this camp. They were top climbers of the competition, which carried out last may to pick up national climbing team. These invitees are listed below:

Men: Davoud Rekabi, Mohammad-Sadeq Yousefyar, Mohammad-Hesam Baqeri, Amir-Hamzeh Pour-Shafi, Mohsen Askari, Ali Baratzadeh, Hamid-Reza Touzandejani, Mohsen Shafie, Mohsen Mohammad-Nejad, Mojtaba Khodaei.

Women: Elnaz Rekabi, Farnaz Esmaeelzadeh, Sima Soltani and Negar Varshowchi.

Approved climbers after this camp will compete in lead, bouldering and speed competitions at 2011 IFSC world Championship begins in Arco, Italy on July 15th.

IMZ News Department
June 29, 2011

American Gregory Crouch talks at ACI’s monthly meeting

Gregory Crouch, member of American Alpine Club will take part in 99th meeting of Alpine Club of Iran with a report about climbing Patagonia.
According to ACI’s official website, this meeting begins at 5:00 p.m. today with news of mountaineering. Then Abbas Mohammadi talks about the history of on mutual collaborations between ACC and ACI. Afterwards, Abbas Sabetian, ACI’s president gives report about joint trekking and climbing program with members of ACC in Damavand and Takht-e-Solaiman regions.
Ninety ninth meeting will go on till 8:00 in the evening, while the finishing part is put aside for Gregory Crouch’s presentation accompanied with a slide show.

IMZ News Department
June 27, 2011

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