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 Mount Damavand guided ski tour

Damavand winter guided tour

A Lead competition in memorial of late Mohammad Davoudi

A lead competition for fresh trainees will be held in "Davoudi" indoor climbing gym tomorrow, February 8th from 17:00 on.
"This competition will be held in memorial of MFI’s old days’ vice ] president late Mohammad Davoudi, who died of pulmonary edema in Takht-e-Solaiman region twenty years ago. Only those trainees, who endorsed by their instructors are allowed to attend,"said Mohammad Tabibi, gym manager.


IMZ News Department
February 7, 2010


Search efforts finished; famous "Farshad Khalili" in death index

Farshad Khalili

The well-known Iranian mountain guide and member of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering Club (DSMC), Farshad Khalili is among the listed dead victims of avalanche disaster.
"Finding the last dead body that belongs to the only female victim of this disaster, search and rescue efforts were finished. Therefore, Akbar Keshavarz, Mehdi Khorasani, Hamid Kazem-Zadeh, Ali Akbar Ebrahim-Zadeh, Farshad Khalili, Majid Shahpari and Nadia Najafi from "DSMC" beside Saeid Taheri from "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group of Tehran were listed as dead victims of avalanche disaster in Mid Alborz," told Babazadeh, the leader of search and rescue efforts.
It is worth saying that, Saeid Taheri is one of those two alpinists, who along with his rope-mate were to do alpine climb of Alam-Kouh wall in winter. Bad weather had forced them to leave the mountain, but they were to return as soon as possible.


IMZ News Department
February 5, 2010


Latest news about avalanche disaster in Mid Alborz

Members of search and rescue teams managed to survive 23 of avalanche victims in Mid Alborz and dig out seven dead bodies till this noon.
Kiyoumars Babazadeh, leader of search operations said to IMZ News: "Disaster has happened at 3:45 P.M. on Thursday, February 4, 2010, while three back to back avalanches swept everything downside the SE slopes of Mt. "Koloun-Bastak" in a duration of less than 10 minutes and each time hit a pile of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering club’s members, who were returning from a training class. Meanwhile, a member of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group of Tehran caught the sight of that horrible event, while he was getting back from "Dizin" skiing pad. He proceeded to help those victims, but another mass of falling snow ran over him."
"We are involved in a vast avalanche zone," he explained about rescue efforts, "where just two dead bodies were discovered till last night and 23 people were survived. However since early hours of Friday’s morning till now (Friday’s noon), with an increase in the number of search teams, five dead bodies were taken out of snow but still one of the victims is buried in an unknown place."


IMZ News Department
February 5, 2010


Avalanche in Mid Alborz; Rescuers on the way

Avalanche caused disaster today, February 4th in middle Alborz region, while more than 20 members of Damavand Ski and Mountaineering Club were to learn how to dig a snow cave.
According to received reports, some of the attendees were hit by avalanche. Early rescue operations by others have resulted in emersion of a few victims. However, equipped search and rescue teams will soon arrive at the zone.
According to weather information, heavy snowing has been started since Wednesday, February 3rd in Middle Alborz.


IMZ News Department
February 4, 2010


Sixth stage of selection process spent on "Abnik" ice fall

Attendees of sixth camp

Sixth stage of selection process to choose members of national mountaineering team was carried out on January 28th and 29th in middle Alborz.
"We had checked attendees’ abilities in high altitude conditions during last five camps, which caused us to choose another style for the sixth one. Therefore, 17 approved mountaineers of fifth camp were transported to "Abnik" ice fall, which is approximately 60 degrees inclined and looks proper to practice glacier rope techniques and ice climbing," told Pouria Parchami, head of MFI’s Himalayan ascent committee.
A few days after sixth stage, instructors Reza Zareei, Omid Amohammadi and Mahmoud Mir-Nouri issued a list of 12 approved alpinists to go under another high altitude test on Mt. Damavand from February 9th on for 5 days.


IMZ News Department
February 4, 2010


Two Iranian cavers will join caving in the Abode of the Clouds 2010

Aiming to participate in an international caving expedition in NE side of India, Leila Esfandyari and Erfan Fekri will leave Tehran toward New Delhi on Friday, February 5th.
Erfan Fekri said to IMZ News: "“we are invited by British coordinator of the expedition, Simon Brooks to take part in an international team composed of 22 European, 2 Iranian and 6 Indian cavers. This expedition has planned to survey and explore a few caves in a region known as "Abode of the Clouds" located in Megalaya, north east of India during a period of 20 days."
According to his report, a few training courses in the fields of caving and speleology has been assumed to be held besides surveying the caves, e.g. a diving course, which will be taught by twelve Indian shipmen.
These two Iranian cavers are sponsored by ACI, Damavand Mountaineering and Ski Club and "Lavasan" Mountaineering group.


IMZ News Department
February 1, 2010


"Roudbar-e-Ghasran" hosts ice climbing festival of Iran for the third time

Alpine Club of Iran (ACI) called ice climbers from all over the country to participate in the "3rd Ice climbing Festival of Iran".
According to their official announcement, this festival will be held from February 10th to 13th again in "Roudbar-e-Ghasran" district, middle Alborz
During recent three years, "Iran’s Ice Climbing Festival" has been held by ACI after its delegation’s return from annual French Ice climbing festival in "Ecrins".


IMZ News Department
February 1, 2010


Members of "Hemmat Shemiran" sit out bad weather in Tehran!

Extreme weather and nonstop snowing push all members of "Hemmat Shemiran" team, who were to hold an attempt on northern wall of Alam-Kouh peak, downside the mountain.
"Six people were jailed in "Sarchal" hut hopping for stable weather condition from Friday’s night on, but new coming forecasts on Friday, January 22nd led them to despair of any improvement so that they preferred to get back to their hometown and wait out bad weather from Tehran," said Hussain Azimi, head of public affairs committee of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group.


IMZ News Department
January 26, 2010


Mojtaba Khodaei won 7th round of Tehran’s 2nd indoor climbing league

Seventh round of the 2nd climbing league of Tehran was held on Thursday, January 21st in "Chahar-Dangh" climbing gym, SW of Tehran.
Moahhamd Tabibi reported: "The 7th competition was held on a route with difficulty grade of 5.12d among 28 climbers from 9 clubs. Finally, whereas Artimes Farshad Yeagneh and Masoud Ghasemi from "Tarbiat Modares" club were again amongst the three first champions, Mojtaba Khodaei took the first prize as a member of "Hemmat Shemiran" club. Also, at the end of this round, "Hemmat Shemiran" outpointed other clubs such as "Tarbiat Modares", "Davoudi" and "Ghianouri", but later clubs are still the most probable winners of the 2 nd climbing league of Tehran."


IMZ News Department
January 24, 2010


Alpinists of "Hemmat Shemiran" jailed in "Sarchal" hut

Arriving at alam-Chal CWM

Alpinists of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group, who has been in "Takht-e-Solaiman" region since last Thursday, got back to "Sarchal" hut due to snowy and windy weather.
"Fixing the ropes between the edges of "Alam-Chal" glacier and beginning of the wall, Bouye Sadat-Nia and Saeid Taheri along with three other friends left their camp and arrived in "Sarchal" hut yesterday", their contact in Tehran said, "since this morning, snowing has been replaced with strong wind up to coming night, so that they have to sit out bad weather again, which is predicted to be snowy until Friday’s night."
The supporting team members are changing every so often, except Rasoul Naghavi.


IMZ News Department
January 20, 2010


A mountaineering ceremony to mark Islamic Revolution

North side of Zarrin-Kouh and frozen Tar Lake at the bottom

Mountaineers of Tehran province are going to mark the 31st anniversary of Islamic Revolution with ascending 12 routes in East Alborz ridge from February 3rd on for three days.
This gathering is organized by Damavand city’s mountaineering council along with because of its convenient access to highest peaks in East Alborz. Doberar(4250 m), Souz-Cahl(4150 m), Angemar(4150 m), Chingiz-Chal(4050 m), Zarrin-Kouh (3850 m) from northern and southern sides, Gol-e-Zard(3750 m), Mian-Roud(3600 m), Ashnedar(2850 m), Tale-Kamar(2800 m) and Margh(2700 m) beside a trekking route toward beautiful "Tar " lake at the southern foot of "Doberar" peak is those 12 predetermined routes for this ceremony.
Since 2008, it is the third time that mountaineers of Tehran do such an ascent to indicate Islamic Revolution.


IMZ News Department
January 18, 2010


Tehran’s mountaineering teams are going to be arranged for 2010

Like last two years, Tehran’s Council of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing is going to start a selection and preparation process to gather 2010 expeditions for men and women, but in youth category.
According to their official website, each MFI admitted mountaineering club in Tehran is allowed to introduce 4 male and 4 female mountaineers for the first stage of this process, which will be held on January 28th on Mt. Tochal.
Tehran’s expeditions have been achieved to the summit of BroadPeak (8046 m), Gasherbrum II (8035 m) and Spantik (7027 m) during last two years.


IMZ News Department
January 17, 2010


Beginning of a winter attempt on Alam-Kouh wall in alpine style

Alam-Kouh wall , Takht-e-Solaiman region

An expedition of 20 mountaineers from "Hemmat Shemian" Mountaineering Group left Tehran toward "Roudbarak" village in "Kelardasht" city of Mazandaran province on January 13th for an attempt on Alam-Kouh peak’s granitic wall in alpine style.
""Including Bouye Sadat-Nia and Saeid Taheri, we were 20 people arriving in "Roudbarak" village in the evening of Wednesday, January 13th. Next day, the well-known mountain guide of Takht-e-Solaiman region, Rasoul Naghavi was added and 21 people set out toward "Sarchal" at 3900m. Most of technical equipments and food stuffs had been loaded in "Sarchal" hut during last few weeks, so whole Friday was dedicated to transferring the necessary stuffs to "Alam-Chal" glacier at the foot of the wall, setting up a camp and digging a snow cave. Afterwards, 10 members returned to Tehran," said spokesman of "Hemmat Shemiran" mountaineering group, Hussain Azimi.
Hussain Added: "Bouye and saeid will start their attempt from "Polish-1973" route in coming few days. Going up to a wide ledge called "Ghomghomeh" in the middle of the wall; they will continue from "Shokouh" route toward the summit at 4868m, which is much less subjected to snow accumulation during cold season. Five days has been planned to climb that 700-meter wall."
It’s worth saying that, Bouye was a member of supporting team for an expedition from Sharif University of Technology, who climbed the same route during January, 2001 but in siege style.


IMZ News Department
January 16, 2010


"Boornik" cave deepened about 45 meter more than before

In the earliest survey of "Boornik" cave, an expedition of 5 cavers from Caving Committee of MFI found new passages totally with 1200 m length.
This survey has been started since last July, where leader Vahid Masdari along with his team mates achieved a few new branches totally with 1200 m length with respect to the last topography done by Austrian "Ernest Geyer" in 2009.
"The topographic sketch of "Boornik" has been already prepared for 11 times and according to the most recent one all braches has 1100 m length together and the deepest one penetrates to the depth of 145m, where we have increased it to 2300 m and the deepest branch goes 190m underground. Surveying new branches needs technical methods," Vahid Said.
"Boornik" cave belongs to category of karst caves and it is Located 120 km east of Tehran, near beautiful "Haran-Deh" village beside the road to Firouz-Kouh city.


IMZ News Department
January 12, 2010


Training courses for members of "NPMH" staff starts today

Training procedure for those involve in "Notification and Prevention of Mountain Hazards" plan will start in a few hours, where Mehdi Davar-Pour talks about "Techniques and Principles of Public Training"".
In addition to techniques of public training, other sessions will be held regularly until February 2nd on the themes of "Compartment and Communication Skills", "Safe Trekking", "Environment", "Avalanche", "Safe Routes for trekking on Mt. Tochal" and "Hypothermia".
"NPMH" is a two-year old project, which has been voluntarily carried out by cooperation between Tehran’s Council of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing and mountaineering clubs all over Tehran, to increase public awareness about true and safe trekking on Mt. Tochal, north of Tehran.


IMZ News Department
January 10, 2010


Attendees’ durability was checked during fifth selection camp

The story of selecting national mountaineering team’s members passed its 5th stage during a 3-day camp on south side of Mt. Damavand from December 30th to January 1st.
"Omitting 2 participants of fourth camp, 23 mountaineers were called to fifth test on south side of Mt. Damavand, where their durability and strength were tested by two time ascent up to a place known as "Ice Fall" around 5100m," Said head of MFI’s Himalaya committee, Pouria Parchami.
Jalal Cheshme-Ghasabani from Hamedan, Pouria Parchami from Tehran and Azim Gheychi-Saz from East Azerbaijan were respectively the leader and instructors of this camp.


IMZ News Department
January 4, 2010


A course to train Level-3 instructors in females’ sport climbing

Tehran’s council of mountaineering and sport climbing is going to hold a training course to prepare a few more level-3 instructors for sport climbing in females’ category.
This course provides participants with essential skills to train a newcomer both in indoor climbing and outdoor sport climbing circumstances. Therefore indoor climbing’s subjects will be given in "Resalat" climbing gym of Tehran during January 13th and 14th, while outdoor section is planned to be held in "Band-e-Yakhchal" climbing resort, northern Tehran from February 20th to 21st. Holding an entrance exam for sport climbing trainees two weeks ago, Khadijeh Sadjadian from Shiraz, Sima Shojaeei from Tehran and Elham Jamshid-Beyk from Qazvin were qualified to take the course.


IMZ News Department
January 3, 2010


Masoud Ghasemi won the 6th round of 2nd climbing league

Having gone by three weeks after the 5th round of 2nd climbing league of Tehran, the 6th one was held in "Ghianouri" climbing gym in south side of Tehran on Friday, 1st of January.
Mohammad Tabibi reported: "The competition started at 9:00 A.m. in "Ghianouri" gym among 45 climbers from 9 clubs, who led a difficult route with grade 5.13a. Finally, the third winner of previous round, Masoud Ghasemi, achieved the first prize and followed respectively by his club-mate Artimes Farshad Yeganeh from "Tarbiat Modares" University"s club and Mahmoud Hasan-Zadeh from the host club. Also, "Tarbiat Modares", "Hemmat Shemiran" and "Ghianouri" clubs were known as three top teams of this round."
Three rounds are remained from the 2nd climbing league of Tehran, where "Tarbiat Modares", "Davoudi" and "Ghianouri" clubs still have more chance of winning than the others.


IMZ News Department
January 2, 2010


Iranians set out toward France for Ecrins 2010

A team of seven climbers on behalf of Alpine Club of Iran left Iran toward France this morning to participate in the 20th Ecrins Ice Climbing Festival.
ACI’s public affairs manager told IMZ News: "Iranian climbers were used to participate in this festival since January 2008. Like last two years, ACI’s representatives are going to attend this sportive meeting from January 8th to 10th in "Ecrins" National Park in SE of France. Abbas Mohammadi, Abbas Sabetian, Farnoush Raeisi from ACI’s Board of Directors beside Mohammad Sabouri, Afshin Yousefi, Mostafa Shekarabi and Mohammad Hajabolfath are members of this team."
"Besides, ACI has organized an ice climbing training course, which will be held from January 2nd to 6th under the supervision of two mountain guides from French "GHM". Also, a basic instruction will be given on the subject of search and rescue," said Abbas Sabetian.
To finish this conversation, we asked him about the standards on which this team has been gathered.
Abbas told: "After the public announcement done on 22nd of October, a pile of climbers have been registered. In order to take advantage of ACI’s 3-years reputation in cultural department of France embassy of Tehran, trip official regularities were left to them. On the other side, the cultural department has held a French language course on the theme of "alpinism" since one and a half year ago. Therefore they push those regularities just for those who had attended the course. So the only selection was Mohammad Sabouri due to his experience in Ice Climbing."
It’s worth noting that, abbas Sabetian along with Abbas Mohammadi will have a few working visits with their counterparts at "GHM" and Alpine Club of France during this trip, which is partly sponsored by the cultural department of France embassy in Tehran.


IMZ News Department
December 29, 2009


"Hamaloon" ice climbing school hesitantly opened

Ice climbing school of "Hamaloon" valley in Middle Alborz opened for the coming cold season from this morning, although last night’s shower made it to some extent unsafe.
"Despite a few ascents during the opening ceremony, the wall does not look steady enough yet. Pouring water has weakened the junctions between icicles and behind rocks so that would be better if enthusiastic climbers wait a weak further for more safety, " said a member of school’s executive board, Eshagh Salar-Kia.
He added: "School is open from 8:30 to 15:30 every day almost until late March and it is assumed to charge everyone with 50,000 Rials for each day. Also, a limited amount of gears is available for rent."
It is worth noting that, climbers should use school’s instructors unless they are experienced enough.


IMZ News Department
December 24, 2009


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